I've been trying to get my new BTVLS to shoot but have only been able to get 1 1/2"-2" 5 shot groups @ 50 yards using CCI Standard Velocity ammo [#0032]. Occasionally I'll get 3 shots to touch then have 2 shots land 1" to 1 1/2" away. My rest is solid, I have a good 4-16X scope with tight scope bases, and have done the recommended trigger work.
I only have shot 135 rounds but thought the MKII should at least shoot consistently 1" or less @ 50 yards out of the box. I’m disappointed and am at a loss what to do next. Suggestions ?
You should try different ammo.
Rimfire rifles are notorious for being picky about what ammo works in any particular rifle.
You and I could have the exact same model of rifle and yours will shoot better with a different ammo than mine.
Don't know why...
The one I've shot made groups "on average" about the same as yours. However it seemed to like the CCI products the best, Winchester products that I tried second best. While every rifle might like different rounds CCI seems to be a constant for me at least. It also seemed to like standard to mini-mags the best. Like Thomae stated... try others..... when ya can get em!
My 17HMR shoots awesome. Pretty darn good with anything I feed it.
My 22MAG is very finicky about what it'll shoot well. Took me a while to figure out what it liked but, it's good to go now.
This is the mystery of all mysteries in the world of accuracy!Originally Posted by thomae
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Due to the current ammo scarcity, I only have a small quantity of CCI and Remington SV ammo but a good supply of various HV bulk ammo. Unfortunately the bulk ammo hasn't been that consistent in the past. Remington SV shot worst than the CCI SV. Since CCI SV is the most likely the SV to be available I may have to concentrate on bottom metal and action bedding until better ammo is available.
I have tried several brands, and they all shoot differently. I have tried two different products from Aquila, Super Extra and Super Maximum. If you adjust your scope for the Extra, the Maximum will be 4-6 inches off, go figure.
Good move, replacing the bottom metal with a D.I.P. plate is the first thing I do with a new Savage rimfire.
The timing kind of stinks with rimfire ammo being scarce right now.
Buy some Wolf Target match ammo.
My mkII shoots the normal 22 ammo in larger groups but shoots the Wolf target match stuff at 3/8" or so at 50 yards.
Last time I shot it at 100 yards it was windy and I was shooting 1-1.5" groups.
I know nothing about guns as far as improving accuracy. Does replacing the bottom plate really help? If so, I have a Mark II Trr-sr, where could I find the right plate to fit it,thanks.
http://www.diproductsinc.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3602 <----- Chick there
Aries by birth, Taurus by choice.
^^ Totally recommend this. My groups, even with top-shelf ammo, shrunk measurably when I used the DIP bottom metal. If you can swing it, here's a few other mods that'll help:
1) Rifle Basix SAV-RAT trigger. Not really a necessity, but IMO it's a nicer, crisper trigger. The Accutrigger is nice, but the RB is even nicer.
2) DIP trigger guard w/ overtravel stop. Really cleans up the back end of the trigger pull.
3) Loctite or nail polish. Not sure if you've done this already, but some purple loctite or nail polish on all of the scope mount-related screws will help ensure it's not moving at all.
4) Torque wrench / screwdriver with in/lb setting. Savage action screws on rimfires are set around 15 in/lb, I believe. However, ask anyone here, and they will tell you that you can greatly improve accuracy with a little bit of changing the torque on the action screws. There's a bit of a process that I'm sure you can find by searching, but it's worth it.
5) Make sure the barrel is free-floated. Savage rimfires are pretty good about having the barrels free from the factory, but you do get the occasional burr / splinter that presses on the barrel. Do the dollar bill test, and if it's tight anywhere, put some rough-grit sandpaper around a 1" dowel and open up that barrel channel.
6) Based on personal experience, Savage rimfires seem to like a bit more shoulder than other rifles. I guess the forward pressure helps them. I've seen it improve groups in both wood and plastic stocks.
Other than what's already been suggested....nothing makes up for practice. Get out there and start putting rounds downrange, and you'll see your groups improve.
Thanks, Ill check into right away.
I got the same issue with my Mark II TR. I'll be installing a 1 piece mount and bedding it tomorrow so see if that corrects it.
I am also buying a DIP bottom metal since the one the Mark II comes with seems flimsy. I stripped the wood screw do I have to drill the wood and retap it.
Sorry for being a pain. I am supposing I need the MKII Non "E" receiver bottom plate. Also since the factory stock is like a composite material, I would need the one for wood not plastic. Last, would I need the bottom metal screw kit or just the bottom metal (item 13018). Thanks and sorry for asking so many questions.
I would call them to make sure.
I was also confused when I bought my kit for a Boyds stock swap.
There is a couple of ways to determine if you have an E or non E receiver. 1 is by measuring how they say on the DIP site, another is if you bought this rifle new and you have the box the model number would help determine that. The current model/SKU for your rifle is 25795 and that would be the E receiver. The other way is to go here on Savage's site
enter your serial number and if it is a E receiver rifle it will state that, if it is not then it will not. Hopefully your's is because when I ordered my parts for my non E they didn't make non E bottom metal in stainless
by "composite" you mean laminate? Laminate = wood.
Get the bottom screw kit with the bottom metal. Darn I was just looking and I wish Bob would put a kit toether for the stainless models. A metal & bolt kit and / or a trigger guard, metal & bolt kit for stainless. All in good time I guess.
Aries by birth, Taurus by choice.
Thanks plinkin. When I entered the serial # it says nothing about E receiver "MOD MARK II TRR-SR 22LR (AT) MATTE". When I click on the bottom plate parts diagram it says "PLATE MAGAZINE MK-II WOOD E-RECVR BLK OX - PN: 108015". I measured and got 7 3/4. So I guess it is an E receiver. Thanks again. By the way, the number on my box was 25752.
wHOA WHOA, back up hold the farm. I thought you were the OP and not someone else. I looked the the SKU for the OP's riflle not yours. Still this should be an E Receiver and when you said composite stock and I knew the OP's stock was laminate. Your rifle has the Tacticool stock and I am not sure what that is. I thought it was wood and had a coating on it. OK though I see you did finger out it is an E receiver.
Aries by birth, Taurus by choice.
The tacticool is laminate.
I thought maybe it was. I see Midway has unfinished versions and they sure do look wooden.
Aries by birth, Taurus by choice.
The one i ordered from Midway was a wood laminate. I'm 90% sure the black ones are the same...there's a thread in another forum where a guy sanded down a black one and it was definitely laminate underneath
The Tacticool stock I got from midway was an unfinished laminate stock.
Update:Well, I stripped the wood with a screw. Oops. I drilled it out yesterday and plug it up with new wood and job weld.
Installed the 1 piece rail mount. No bedding needed, there was no play at all.
Still waiting on the dip bottom metal
some pics and tools needed, you'll need a drill too.
new rail.
Now Im confused. I was about to order the bottom plate for wood stock, part# 13030. Right before I ordered it I received an e-mail from DIP support telling me I would need the part# 13015 which is for a plastic stock. bloodhawke, you're stock looks identical to mine. Would you please tell me the part you ordered? Thanks so much.
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