I have encountered the same problem. What caused this was just after I got the rifle I had the stock off couple times. I was removing the stock again and I started to loosen the screw closet to the rear of the rifle that would be the butt stock not the forearm.
I could not get that screw to loosen...I stripped the hex out of the head of the screw. I tried to drill the head of the screw but that was a bad idea the head of the screw was too hard for the drill bits that I have.
The solution that worked perfectly was using a dremal motor with a burring bit that was 1/8" dia. and with a bit that was made of carbide. High speed steel will not work.
I carefully used the high speed of the dremal and the carbide bit to grind the head of the screw off. Make sure the rifle is steady and use both hands to operate the dremal because if the bit catches it could scar up the metal on the trigger guard.
Anyway, as I was delicately grinding the metal away and gradually making small increments in a circle fashion the head popped off of the screw. I only went deep enough down in the top of the screw so that there was no more metal holding the head onto the screw shank.
After the head was off I was able to get the stock off to tackle an over tightened screw or so I thought. When I touched the headless screw I was able to unscrew it with my fingers.
That screw was under so much tension that it was impossible to get it loose and the hex did not last.
I should have loosened the other screw first on the muzzle end. That would have decreased the tension on the other screw first. Live and learn.
I thought about taking some pictures so to make a better presentation of this problem and maybe others could avoid it. Right now I am away from home on a work assignment or I would do a photo guide to show exactly what went on...I still the little head of the screw to show how much to grind out of the center in the of the screw.
This is important especially those that don't have much experience with using a hand held high speed tool. They will catch and jump to some place that will be undesirable...so hold on to the tool with both hands and use eye protection!
Back to the bit that I used. As stated above bit was the same diameter from one end to the other end and was 0.125" in dia. The cutting end of the bit was just rounded over but not a distinct ball it looks a half of a ball on the end of the bit. And is solid carbide. These cost more but high speed steel will not do the job. McMaster Carr, Grainger have these bits.
The screw was the longer one not the short one.
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