Reply With QuoteOr, would it just be easier/effective to just get a good ballistic calculator for my iPhone and use a mil dot? Looking for experience and advice.
I have been looking for a scope upgrade for my 243 wssm. The main purpose is long range, 600-1000 yard, prairie dogs. I like the idea of the leupold CDs dial system for elevation, but would also like some reference for wind drift. I saw a show today that used these best of the west huskemaw scopes with 5mph hash marks. http://www.longrangestore.com/Huskem...p_p/100200.htm
But, I do not have the jack for a $1,500 scope. I am familiar with and have used mil dots, but this system looks easier and quicker to use since there are more calibrated hashes. Is there a reasonable, $500-600, scope out there with a similar retical?
Thanks.
Or, would it just be easier/effective to just get a good ballistic calculator for my iPhone and use a mil dot? Looking for experience and advice.
all are essentualy useless unless you saw where the last bullet hit. if you can see your hits then any of them will work.
wherever it hit would be your next aiming point. lets say it hit on the 3rd milldot to the right. hold that milldot on and shoot. if you insist you can also dial over to the hit. how many shots does it take to zero your gun? well that works for this also.
Use a good ballistic calculator and if you don't want to dial in windage, then get a mil dot reticle to hold it. That scope will work for everything whereas custom turrets like Huskemaw are only good for that specific load and weather conditions.
Just get a mil-dot or an MOA reticle and as stated if you don't see the first shot then it is just like a coldbore long range shot. You hope your figures are correct and that there is no change in wind from barrel to target, hold off or adjust and let lead fly. No matter how good the technology you have is mother nature can still mess up the perfect shot with just a little puff.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
Having a spotter is a good thing.
I have a vortex bdc reticle scope.
Strelok plus ballistic app is excellent!
Spotters or camera makes a big difference. I'm working on a camera setup since I shoot by my self most of the time.
I use the Strelok Plus app as well. Made me look like a pro on my first day once I had a zero.
On Strelok Boris is going to work on silhouettes for target shapes in the reticle view. I hope he gets it pulled off it would be awesome. Having the zero compensation added a few weeks ago has made things very nice.
agreed, ill even take that further by saying for hunting its a requirment.Originally Posted by stangfish
most of these guys are shooters not hunters. that why the varying opinions
on equiptment and technique.
Having a "trained/experience" spotter is a good thing!
Took my brother in law and he was unable to walk me on target. Had to shoot a steel plate and zero myself. Used up like 25-30rds of good match ammo to get on target lol. He just didn't know what to look for and didn't know how to relay where the round was impacting.
it dosent really take much experience to be a spotter. especially at distances under 1000 yds.
beyond that distance it can be more problematic for both shooter and spotter.
key would be his location with regard to the shooter and type of optics he used.
the best location for following the bullet trail would be behind and slightly to one side of the shooter.
hand held optics simply wont cut it regardless of quality. tripod mounted spotters or good binnocs are a must.
vegetation or deep snow can swallow up hits and make it difficult at best. i know im wearing this out but a muzzel
brake will allow the shooter to be in control of seeing at least most of his own hits.
25 to 30 unseen shots would usually indicate other problems.
there comes a time when the adult within us should step foward.
thats sometimes difficult especially when trophy animals are involved.
It's not that the shots were unseen it was conveying and communicating the location to the shooter and approximate distance for zeroing. At 100yds for zeroing it is hard to see your impact even with a brake. That's why I switched to a bright orange spray painted steel plate. Once I had the location it only took 3 shots to get my 0 on so I could switch to my paper target for fine tuning.
im affraid my age is really catching up with me. all this time i thought zeroing and fine tuning took place first
usually at say 100 yds.
Try this apparatus: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukwiwzyeOlE
FDAC, what a handy tool!
[B]"Fumeiyo Yori Shi"[/B]
lets see now what did i do with my glasses? what, you forgot to remind me to bring them?
here we are with the biggest buck weve seen in years and me with no glasses. lol
im sure the thing like most others of that type will work well. but whats wrong with a simple chart based on your gun
and your load for the approx. elevation above sea level you will be hunting? printed in as large a foremat as you need.
seems to me were discovering ways to complicate the uncomplicated. i would agree with it being a good reference to have
around for discussions on what if situations.
Thanks for the input everyone. I have decided after looking at several different reticles that the mil-dot is best as stated. I will also check out the suggested apps. And has anyone else noticed how few mil-dot scopes are out there? Reticles now seem to be some version of a bdc reticle and every manufacturer has their own design. I am really leaning to the leupold mark ar 6x18 mil dot. This will be mounted on my 243 wssm.
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