Reply With Quotemedia blast it with abrasive material and degrease and spray. don't use glass beads
I currently have a ss aftermarket shilen I would like to duracoat flat black, and a model 11 action that is blued also want to make flat black will duracoat stick to these or do you have to prep them a certain way? I have watched some you tube videos on how to do it but all the guns are a matte finish already. Thanks
media blast it with abrasive material and degrease and spray. don't use glass beads
Sinman I am assuming that media blasting is sand blasting,sorry for the newb question been shooting a long time, but I am new to this building and personalizing a savage addictionOriginally Posted by sinman
sand works, I usually use black oxide material when I blast. Make sure to tape off what you don't want painted/blasted
I take my stuff to GCS. They are a Duracoat abd Ceracote certified shop.
I thought you were supposed to use glass bead?
J.C. who is GCS and where are they located ? thanks
No, the beads actually peen the surface leaving it with no bite for the paint to grab. Parkerize, oxides, or garnet media is the best prep for coating.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
You can use sandpaper then degrease then paint. I do this with all guns I paint with dura coat or krylon.
GCS is Gulf Coast Shooting located in Mobile, AL
http://gulfcoastshooting.com/gcsllc/
Clean really good and my best luck has been with Jasco metal etching liquid. Then dura coat over it then Clear dura coat bake at 200 deg for 2 hours you will be good to go!
I have never baked it on. Never thought about it . It needs to cure for at least a week...maybe the oven replaces the cure time?
I have painted several Savage actions and barrels over the past couple of years. If you are just going to paint one barrel and action, then I would send it off to a professional with the equipment and materials to do it right. If you want the satisfaction of DIY or plan to do several guns, then here is the process I use for professional results and a lasting finish.
1. You will need to borrow an air compressor. Buy a cheap media blast kit, airbrush kit, disposable in-line air/water filter, rubber gloves, eye goggles and air filter. All are available at Harbor Freight. You will also need about 10 to 25 pounds of 120 grit aluminum oxide available online in a small pail.
2. Soak the blued parts you want to paint in distilled white vinegar for 30 to 40 minutes to remove bluing. Submerse in acetone to clean and degrease and handle all parts with rubber gloves from this point forward.
3. Since I don’t have a media blast cabinet, I blast outside using about 80 lbs of pressure (the media goes everywhere). So I blast over a clean plastic rubber maid container with the top partially removed. This is so I can reclaim and reuse some of the media.
4. Submerse the parts once again in acetone to clean with a tooth brush and degrease, degrease, degrease.
5. I then attach a thin piece of hobby wire to all the parts so that I can hang to quickly air dry, prime and paint.
6. I then immediately dip or air brush on a product called K-Phos 2000. It seals the metal, prevents the part from starting to rust and acts as a primer coat for the paint.
7. I use a bake on finish like GunKote on metal and save the DuraCoat which goes on thicker for stocks and parts that can’t be baked. GunKote goes on thin, holds up like armor plating and won’t cause tolerance problems. You can order K-Phos 2000 and GunKote directly from www.kgcoating.com or www.midway.com in various colors
8. Now you are ready to apply the finish. I heat the part to just slightly warm with a hair dryer. Apply a light coat of Gun-Kote on each part and let flash dry. Then repeat the process, approximately 3 times until the part is evenly coated. Let dry for 1 hour and remember to never touch the part with your bare fingers until it has been baked on.
9. I hang each part from the wire rack in the oven and bake for 60 minutes at 315F. Let cool
10. I then inspect the parts for any paint blemishes. I lightly sand to remove the blemish, degrease with acetone, touch up the area with airbrush and GunKoat and bake again at 315F for 30 minutes.
You will end up with a professional job that looks great and hold up to a lot of abuse. The pictures below show the tools I use and the results on two Savage rifles. The bottom Savage LA was done with Matte Black GunKote. I also glass bead blasted the polished SS CBI barrel with the same tools and 80 grit glass bead to give it a matte finish. Note: Use only new, clean white glass beads for blasting polished Stainless Steel. Reusing media from a previous metal blasting job will pound black metal flakes into the SS finish that rust. The stock is a unpainted budget Stockade Gunstock stock that was prepared, degreased with acetone and airbrushed with a black Duracoat base. I then used both black and silver Krylon webbing paint to add some surface texture and a custom look.
The top rifle is a Savage LWH that had a matte black finish. I stripped off the bluing with distilled white vinegar. Blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide. Primed with K-Phos 2000 and applied a Satin Black GunKote finish just last week.
Last edited by jpdown; 06-09-2013 at 04:16 PM.
I want to thank you all for your responses (JP) those look great, I would like to do more than one in the future but after reading JP's method I'm not sure I want to invest that much time and money into the finish. I think I might be better off consulting a pro thanks again everyone
Late to chime in but I have shot a dozen guns with DuraCoat and CeraKote. I didnt blast any of them and the finish with DuraCoat is excellent when you degrease it properly. The Cerekote didnt hold up as well, specially around the end of the barrel (muzzle blast). My first was an inexpensive pistol in Tiger Stripe. Then I did a CETME in Tiger Stripe. Then I got cocky and did my AR Prairie Dog rifle in Air Force Digital, just like the cover of their old Brochure - Came out Excellent! If I didnt do the scope (which I did on the rifle), it looks exactly like their job. And, I am no pro. My spray gun outfit came from a Harbor Frieght store for under $12.
I have not used any bake on product so I cant attest to that. Mostly what I do when I do it now id not stenciled, just plain colors or Tiger Stripe using Blue Masking Tape.
I bake my dura coat on to speed up cure process. Instead of waiting a week or 2.
I gave them all 5 days before firing. By the way, I saw a friends baking oven, homemade. He used a steel clothing locker, insulated it and used electric elements for heat. Does long actions easily.
Used one of their shake'n'spray kits a couple years ago. Didn't use anything but what came with the kit and that finish is still holding strong. Have a few nicks around the muzzle but otherwise has held up great.
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