Poor accuracy from 12LPV in 204

[HOEING8]

A little update.

Made it to Bass Pro and picked up some shooter's choice MC#7 and their extra strength copper remover. Brushed the bore using the MC7 and a bronze brush, then followed with some patches of copper remover. I got next nothing extra out of the barrel. It appears that it was pretty clean before. I went ahead and pushed my lead slug through the tight spot (took a little extra oomph but it went through). Then I drove another slug in just short of the tight spot, took them out and measured both. They both measured in the .2036-.2038 range, depending on which groove I was measuring and how I held my mouth when I measured. So even though there is a tight spot, I'm no longer very concerned about it.

I also ordered some 39gr BK's, Remington 7.5's, and a couple lb's of VV N530. A Lee cast iron classic and some collet neck sizing dies (along with a bunch of other nickel and dime stuff that really adds up!) are also on their way.

I'll report back as soon as I have some results!

Tim

[HOEING8]

It's been awhile, but I thought I'd post an update. I haven't had a chance to shoot any handloads yet, but in the meantime I decided to bed the action of my rifle. I noticed that tightening the front action screw would lift the tang a noticeable amount. Tightening the rear screw would then pull it back down. I don't know if this was contributing to my accuracy problems but it couldn't hurt to have it fixed. While researching how to bed a Savage action I came across a writeup of a rifle on 6mmbr that had a barrel block. Looked like a good idea to me so I decided to make one for my rifle. Here are the results.

[img width=600 height=343]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK002.jpg[/img]

[img width=600 height=450]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK004.jpg[/img]

[img width=600 height=450]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK006.jpg[/img]

[img width=600 height=450]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK007.jpg[/img]


I don't know if this was a good way to go about it, but I'll let you know after I get a chance to shoot it.

[docsleepy]

Which Gander did you get this from?

[TnTom]

when you aligned the barrel in the steady rest the run out was .006" - .008" tir was that ID or OD. the bore has to run true and the crown must be square to the bore if the id is running out the face is not square. There's no forgiveness in that area.

How did you break in the barrel?

I'd double check the the forward pillar and be sure its not below the wood at all. It must come in contact with the bottom of the action. Torque in my opinion also make a big difference. Using a cigarette paper (rolling paper) see if you have .003" - .004" clearance all around the tang and along side the action, it should be free. The tang can bind at the grip and thats NO GOOD. Check it again after you torque it. #30lbs works for me.

[HOEING8]

I got the gun at the Gander on the north side of Indy.

The OD of the barrel ran true in the steady rest, so the crown I cut is square to and concentric with the OD. I stuck a gage pin in the bore after indicating in the OD and saw the runout there. The bore isn't concentric with the OD from the factory. I put a flat, recessed crown on it to minimize the error.

[HOEING8]

I guess you guys are being polite by not telling me how awful it looks?

Just think - no one will ever accuse my Savage of being ugly because of the barrel nut!