I'd say it's a pretty good diy result! You leaned the hard way about backing up the wood when drilling but other than that I'd say it's GTG!
I'd say it's a pretty good diy result! You leaned the hard way about backing up the wood when drilling but other than that I'd say it's GTG!
Thanks for your kind words! I'll have to say I'm rather pleased with how it turned out other than having to do the patching... But sometimes you just have to do to learn. Next time I'll definitely use sacrificial woodOriginally Posted by bodywerks
Nice job. Thanks for sharing, and I appreciate your descriptions of the problems to help others overcome them.
Another thing to think about is that the stock is a laminate, so you have thin layers of wood between layers of glue/epoxy that are significantly harder than wood...that glue really will dull a bit. Make sure your bits are really sharp, and if you don't sharpen your own bits, it might be worth it to buy new bits for the project, or invest in a set of carbide bits. (That's the reason that saw blades for plywood [also glued laminations] have carbide teeth; it simply holds up better than HSS.)
For the hole that chipped out, another technique to consider is to drill the hole approximately halfway in with a forstner bit from either side in order to reduce chipout. A sacrificial piece of wood clamped to the stock, as was already suggested, will help, but it is hard to get the contour just so so that it is tight against the entire curved surface of the stock.
Bottom line: Even if it looked perfect to us, you would know every little imperfection, (I know I do when I make something). But, trust me, with your now perfect cheek weld and sight picture, the varmints won't be making any snide remarks about that little ding in the stock as they run for their lives!
Bottom line: Nice job and great write up.
Take some PSA-backed (pressure-sensitive-adhesive) sandpaper and stick it on the area of the stock in question, and run a block of MDF over it until you get it contoured to match. Repeat for the other side. You can get the fit as perfect as you want to, and the PSA paper will peel right off afterwards. Alternately, you could use that plaster-of-paris trick to make a custom-moulded clamping caul.A sacrificial piece of wood clamped to the stock, as was already suggested, will help, but it is hard to get the contour just so so that it is tight against the entire curved surface of the stock.
True... but it seems like most of the time when I try to 'save time', I inevitably wind up eating any 'savings' trying to undo mistakes or make it look better.As for leveling the stock to cut the cheek riser out... you could do that. But if your even some what careful you can do what I did and save the time.
Thomae appreciate the kind words, appreciate it. Not sure on the forstner bit method, drilling into and exiting out through a finished surface seemed to create chipping either way. Personally I'm beginning to think its the wood. Also the drill bits I was using had a http://www.lowes.com/pd_173162-70-DW...its&facetInfo= have a secondary curve on the cutting edge for the lack of a better description. They REALLY grab hold and dig in which probably contributed to the issue. I would use the absolutely sharpest least aggressive bits I had to do this job. Also using a drill press and clamping the piece down and being very controlled and deliberate about the speed at which I allowed the bit to travel down in to the wood. Even to the point of holding back the bits advance....
I Like Memilanuk's idea below... If I was doing this for others I think this would be a way to do it.
After re-reading your section on cutting out the cheek piece/riser it sounds like a great way to do it... I got away with what I did because I had a second pair of hands assisting to maintain level.
Last edited by EAW; 05-29-2013 at 11:41 AM.
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