308 brass - no prep needed?

Nick · 03-07-2013, 12:18 AM

So far my only experience with reloading is for handguns, so please excuse my possibly lame questions. I got all that I need to start reloading for my new Savage in .308. Something is quite confusing through...

If I take any of my once fired cases and deprime it only, it chambers perfectly (to be expected), and I can seat a bullet without any problems. Does this mean that it doesn't need sizing? It looks like if I trim them, they are ready to go. Can that be right? No sizing at all?

I was thinking of only neck expanding with a Lyman M, but if I can seat the bullet easily do I even need to to that...? Somehow I can't believe that they need no prep...

**Apache** · 03-07-2013, 12:22 AM

Go read here for awhile:

http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...e-found-useful

Nick · 03-07-2013, 12:39 AM

Thanks for the links. The thing is that I read tons online, including the Lyman 49, I know how rifle reloading works in theory, but sometimes you still have questions. I guess that's why forums like this one exist...

I haven't found anywhere anything stating something like "you might not have to prep cases in some instances". As I said, it looks like my cases are good to go with just tumbling, depriming and trimming, but I feel like it's too good to be true. I'm just looking for a confirmation whether that is the case or not.

EDIT: I know that if the cases chamber properly and I would be firing them in the same rifle, there would be no need for resizing. I'm surprised though by the fact that they don't even need neck expanding. That's what I wonder about...

**Apache** · 03-07-2013, 12:45 AM

IMO, It's always better to do case prep work for the sake of consistency even with new cases.

Nick · 03-07-2013, 12:54 AM

What's weird is that if I do a full length sizing and I trim them, I have to push the bolt harder. If I take an unprepped case and trim it, it goes in nice and smoothly.

I don't mind at all going through the entire case prep work, but I wonder if it makes any sense to do it since they are good to go... Wouldn't less prep work lengthen the life of the case?

In this particular instance, the entire prep work was very anti climatic. I ordered the dies, waited for them, adjusted them, got the case lube, and all the good stuff... and then they only need trimming

I don't even have to lube them. I'm wondering how common this is.

jb6.5 · 03-07-2013, 12:55 AM

What are you using to deprime? Most people either full length or neck size and deprime at the same time.

Nick · 03-07-2013, 12:56 AM

Originally Posted by jb6.5

What are you using to deprime? Most people either full length or neck size and deprime at the same time.

A Hornady decapping-only die.

jb6.5 · 03-07-2013, 01:11 AM

I would at least neck size them to make sure the tension is correct. I've had trouble with a stiff bolt when fl sizing turned out I had my dies adjusted wrong.

Nick · 03-07-2013, 01:19 AM

Originally Posted by jb6.5

I would at least neck size them to make sure the tension is correct.

I would neck size them, but from what I understand my Lyman M neck sizing die simply makes sure that the bullet can be seated properly. With my brass though, I can seat the bullet centered without any neck sizing.

That's what Lyman says about the die:
"Works in a two step process, the first step expands the inside of the case neck to just under bullet diameter. The second step expands the case mouth to bullet diameter or slightly over so that the bullet can be started perfectly centered. "

As I said, I can do all that without the die. That's what surprised me and made me wonder if I'm missing anything. Or... that's just the way it is with this particular brass and stop wondering about it...

**thermaler** · 03-07-2013, 07:08 AM

I've loaded some new Lapua brass straight-up--the only brass I would do this with, but even with lapua I'd still champher/ deburr the neck to ensure consistency on bullet grip. I've bought Nosler custom brass which says right on the box pre-sized and ready to load--but found enough variations/defects in it that I would not load it without "regular" brass treatment.

n4ue · 03-08-2013, 05:29 PM

As I have found in my short time here, all great replies. I just received a new batch of Norma 22-250 brass. As with all new brass, here are the steps I take (learned through 40+ years reloading 29 calibers).......YMMV......
1. Use a Lyman tool to de-burr the inside of the flash hole
2. Neck size (I love Imperial dry media)
3. Chamfer the inside and outside of the case necks *

If you feel new brass, you will feel a small, sharp edge on the outside and inside of the case mouth. This come from the mfg's final steps. (at least all the brass I've encountered). It's very difficult to see, but you can feel the outside burr with a fingernail. Since I use almost 100% coated bullets, a little prevention goes a long way.
* I have arthritis in my shooting wrist. Too many 454, 445, 414 etc. I use my shop lathe and with a couple of Lyman (or RCBS) chamfer tools, it's a piece of cake.
Just think if a new case had a slight dent in the mouth... The chamfer tool would not remove the burr in a consistant manner.

A GREAT site to read about advance case prep, is 6mmBR.com. Even this 'old Fa*t' learned some new tricks......

ron

JCalhoun · 03-08-2013, 06:05 PM

I full length size new brass. Then trim & chamfer the necks. After that I will neck size and trim.

**earl39** · 03-08-2013, 08:10 PM

Originally Posted by Nick

If I take any of my once fired cases and deprime it only, it chambers perfectly (to be expected), and I can seat a bullet without any problems. Does this mean that it doesn't need sizing? It looks like if I trim them, they are ready to go. Can that be right? No sizing at all?

Notice i colored the key words in your question. Fired brass should be at least neck sized unless you have a true tight neck chamber for your brass which is not likely with a factory rifle. These tight neck neck chambers tend to be found on dedicated benchrest rifles. if you can push a bullet into your brass using your hands even pushing the bullet against a table or such odds are you need to increase the neck tension.

Nick · 03-17-2013, 06:40 PM

Originally Posted by earl39

Fired brass should be at least neck sized unless you have a true tight neck chamber for your brass which is not likely with a factory rifle. These tight neck neck chambers tend to be found on dedicated benchrest rifles. if you can push a bullet into your brass using your hands even pushing the bullet against a table or such odds are you need to increase the neck tension.

I ended up doing a full resize, just to be sure. I ordered the Hornady neck size match grade die, so next time I'll reload them I'll just work the neck.

**bsekf** · 03-18-2013, 10:36 AM

You said "If I take any of my once fired cases and deprime it only, it chambers perfectly (to be expected), and I can seat a bullet without any problems". A bullet should drop into a unsized case, you may have a very tight neck and need to turn necks. Do some research before you have pressure problems. If you have no pressure problems a fired case should go back into the chamber it was fired in, however, due to case "spring-bacK" you should have to resize the neck in order for it to hold a bullet.