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Thread: Help w/Painting barrel

  1. #1
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    Help w/Painting barrel


    Should I just clean the barrel good with brake cleaner then apply spray paint or krylon? I figured I would start with that and then get it Cerakoted if I liked it.

    Any advice on what color I should go with?


  2. #2
    mikeooa
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    Coyote tan would go with your green furniture...
    My first rifle (stainless steel) I sprayed with a Camo paint it looks OK after 2 years, the 2nd one SS as well i bought a kit from
    Dura-Coat, they have one million colors and it is easy to apply and the results are Super! Good shooting

  3. #3
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Just spray-bomb it and save your money. Both Cera-Kote and Dura-Coat are really nothing more than catalyzed automotive paint, and they're no more durable unless baked on and even then they're only marginally more durable. Spray-bomb is also much cheaper/easier to touch-up if/when needed.
    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
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urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

  4. #4
    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    Spray-bomb is also much cheaper/easier to touch-up if/when needed.
    +1

    Definitely Rustoleum or Krylon Camouflage in Forest Green would be most cool. I mean since "GREEN" is in now like "TACTICAL" you would have a Green Tactical Savage.

  5. #5
    Basic Member DanSavage's Avatar
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    Green or black, looks good.

  6. #6
    Toyoda
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    I used matte black dura coat, my gun looks identical. I would use flat black rattle can next time.

  7. #7
    goinssr
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    Rattle can paint IS NOT as durable as Duracoat or Cerakote! Both were developed specifically as firearm finishes. Duracoat is epoxy based and Cerakote is ceramic based. Cerakote is also 2x-3x more expensive than Duracoat but also much more durable. I have almost that same identical rifle and once I get it shot in and see that all is well I am going to have mine Duracoated. I just cannot decide on a color!

  8. #8
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    Can you guys that have them painted post pics of your rifles?

  9. #9
    GSRswapandslow
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFurious View Post
    Just spray-bomb it and save your money. Both Cera-Kote and Dura-Coat are really nothing more than catalyzed automotive paint, and they're no more durable unless baked on and even then they're only marginally more durable. Spray-bomb is also much cheaper/easier to touch-up if/when needed.
    while it is cheaper, and can be made more durable through heat curing.....generic spray paint is in NO WAY just as durable as Duracoat or Cerakote. Cerakote, when applied correctly, is MUCH MUCH more durable in all situations.

  10. #10
    Team Savage wbm's Avatar
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    I agree that Krylon is not as durable but having had Duracoat I prefer the Krylon for it's ease of touch up and if I decide to change colors there is no hassle. Also it protects my barrels, and if I get ready to sell it I can get it back to it's stainless or blue.
    Want to try the Cerakote at least once.

  11. #11
    stangfish
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    I have a friend that uses aluma-hyde or whatever Brownels calls it. Stuff looks good on my M1A Stainless match barrel that he did for me. I have used duracoat and love it. It needs to cure for 2 or 3 weeks though, trust me. GunKoat is ok but you need a large oven to put a barrel in. I would only do it If I could hang it vertically. Same with cerakote

  12. #12
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    Krylon and rustolem can be removed with laquer thinner or acetone. So it is cheap and easy to remove if you change you mind about the color. But it also will not hold up if exposed to gun cleaning solvent. Rattle can paint is in no way as durable as heat-cured Cerakote or GunKote on metal, or Duracoat on the stock in my experience. Proper metal prep and through degreasing are very critical to the final results and durability of the finish. if you have access to an air compressor, a cheap Harbor Freight sandblasting gun, 120 grit aluminum oxide and hobby airbush will allow you to DIY. Plenty of How to information online.

  13. #13
    loudandproud
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    I use KG Gun Kote out of an air brush and bake it in my homemade ghetto oven.
    I built the oven for $40. Works awesome.

    I can heat it from 200*-500* F and it is consitant in heat top to bottom with 10*.

    I wrapped this in insulation: Its just ducting bolted to a $15 electric 5th burner with an adjustable thermostat.


    $10 eletric thermometer



    Results:




    I plan on doing my rifle barrel and action in the oven as well since it is so long.

  14. #14
    stangfish
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    Loudandproud, you are an inspiration my man. I love cheap!

  15. #15
    shadow65
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    I've used Aluma-hyde for some years now and after it cures, it's extremely tough.

  16. #16
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    Thanks for all the info. I put 2 coats on. How many coats should I put on it?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by loudandproud View Post
    I use KG Gun Kote out of an air brush and bake it in my homemade ghetto oven.
    I built the oven for $40. Works awesome.

    I can heat it from 200*-500* F and it is consitant in heat top to bottom with 10*.

    I wrapped this in insulation: Its just ducting bolted to a $15 electric 5th burner with an adjustable thermostat.


    $10 eletric thermometer



    Results:




    I plan on doing my rifle barrel and action in the oven as well since it is so long.

    What kind of insulation did you wrap the duct piping in? Ive done the same thing as you and have trouble getting the oven above 275.

  18. #18
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    Finally did it.


  19. #19
    stangfish
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    You are going to do the action right. Does anyone else use phosphoric prep besides me?

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