6.5-06 or 270WSM, what's your thoughts

[358Hammer]

I am going to say 26 inch to get the most out of your powder. I am not a long gun/barrel guy and have hunted with handgunds for decades.

I got mine from Benchmark barrels and since then they started sending the barrels in to have them Nitrided as well. It took 8 weeks and the last time I spoke with Chris they were still running 6-8 weeks.

ANother route would be to purchase a barrel from any number of venders/guys on this website. Several here have reamers for this caliber. Nitriding has gone a long ways towards pushing people like me towards a 6.5 or 270 WSM as before barrel life was way to short.

Enjoy the quest

Neal

SOmeone just asked me a very valid question that I had not thought about.

The difference between a 6.5X300WSM vs 6.5 X 270 WSM (mine) and my 6.5 X 270 WSM improved.

6.5 X 300 WSM is a gigantic pain to neck down the 300WSM case .044 or so to 6.5 caliber. SO I have used the 270WSM case from the start because I am only one pass necking the 270 case down .013. The improved on the case is two fold.
1. The reamer was made to chamber .050 deeper
2. The throat was cut for 130-142 grain bullets and so those bullets will seat with the base of the bullet flush with the bottom of the case utilizing the entire case capacity.

Lisa uses only the 100grain Partition these days which means like the Weatherby cartridges we have one very long freebore chamber hence pressure reduction. I might venture here in saying that I haven't ever got a 6.5 Win Mag even close to the velocities of this 6.5 WSM Imp. SO when I strongly encourage people to work up load data theis is always a good thing for sure. In this case it is a must as it is not just a 6.5WSM.

Neal

[Alesandro]

358;

Ok, a couple more questions. What is the difference between the 6.5-270WSM and 6.5-300WSM, is it the same thing just different names?

Also, since this is my first build and I am very new to wildcatting, between the 6.5-06 and the 6.5-270WSM which one would be easier for a newbie?

I have been looking for information on the 6.5-270WSM and it seems like there is quite a bit more work to getting a finished round to shoot over the 6.5-06. I am not lazy and I like doing new things and learning, if there isn't much difference getting to the final product then I am good. I am a little leery about biting off more than I can chew and making my first build turn out to be a long chore rather than a fun learning experience.

Thanks for everyone's help and I hope I don't sound like I am whining.

[Apache]

I think Neal's out hunting for a few days so I'll try to help. He may chime in later with more or different advise.

Here's my advise:

Either one is about the same as far as work goes. Either one would be a good wildcat starting round IMO. Simple necking up or down a single caliber is one of the more basic steps of wildcatting.

The work for a 6.5-06 or the 6.5 WSM is about the same when you are actually doing it. To my knowledge there is no difference in the 270 WSM or the 300 WSM other than neck dimensions. If it were me, I would get the Lee die set for the 6.5 WSM and use 270 WSM brass to work with. The 270 WSM brass is much closer to the the dimensions you are trying to achieve. All you would have to do is run the brass into the die just like you would if you were resizing it. Brass forming work is done. Check to make sure brass length is proper.

If you use the 300 WSM brass, you would have to neck it down in several steps.....not a problem just more work and expense because of the additional die costs.

It would be nearly the same for the 6.5-06. I would choose to neck up 25-06 brass instead of necking down other brass. Just run it into the 6.5-06 die and your done forming. Necking up brass is an easier step than necking down. Check the length and you're good to go.

You're now done with the brass forming work on either round you choose.

Anymore questions just ask....they're plenty of people here that can help.

[stomp442]

Yep all I used was 270wsm brass and neck it down to 6.5. Even then I had to turn about 2 thousandths off the neck for proper fit in the chamber. The 6.5-06 would be an easier wildcat as like Apache said all you have to do is neck up 25-06 brass and away you go. The 6.5wsm will more than likely require some neck turning one more step in the brass prep process.

[358Hammer]

As Apache has said.

There is no difference between the base 6.5X270WSM and the 6.5X300WSM other than ease of forming the case. It feels no different running the 270WSM case into a 6.5WSM sizing die than it does to just run the 270WSM case into its own die.
Now I have just about every 6.5 there is and currently load for a dozen 6.5 calibers. I use a 270 Win case for my version of the 6.5 Gibbs. The reason for this is because it is so simple to size down.
It is also making a false shoulder where I need that false shoulder because of the drastic case dimension change in forming needed to form the Gibbs.

I have a lathe and a couple of hand neck turners to play with. In forty years I have yet to neck turn anything that wasn't chambered to have the necks turned. I only did it once for a competition 6BR chamber. Never did that again and never had anything but bad brass cause me to not be able to chamber a case.

My 5.6 X 57 brass has super, did I say SUPER thick case necks. To use that case for my various wildcats I must either turn the neck down or make the print for the reamer to reflect that case thickness. Do not worry, whatever standard dimension chamber you decide on you will not have to do anything but run the case into the die.

That 270WSM will do most anything that the 6.5WSM will do and both will eat every cartridge velocity wise that comes out of the 06 and improved cases. They both load exactly the same.

Hope this helps
Neal

[Orr89rocz]

I just picked up my first savage and its a 270 wsm. Gonna see how it does in factory barrel form but plan on rebarreling to 300 wsm. That way i will have both and the 270 would be abit better for deer hunting if i ever use it for that. The small high velocity 257-270's really do well.

I dont see the big advantage in a 6.5 wsm. Maybe more available match grade bullets? Tad better bc? For 500-600 yard hunting round i would go 270 for abit more bullet weight and retained energy at that range but probably depends on load. 6.5 may have similar performance by that point. Probably a wash as far as the game animal is concerned.

I am more interested in the 257 version. The weatherby in that caliber is phenominal on deer sized game and i always wanted one. May not have as much long range energy tho being 20-30 grains lighter

[Alesandro]

OK, let me see if I got this right if I go with the 6.5-270WSM
The 6.5-270 WSM is the same as the 6.5-300WSM
To resize for the 6.5-270WSM all I need are these dies http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...rodID=LEE90985 and 270WSM brass
No need to neck turn if using 270WSM brass

If it's that easy then my mind is made up. I already have a 110 in 270Win with an Acu-Trigger so all I need to do is order my barrel and change out my bolt head (I think). Every thing sound about right?

[Apache]

It's pretty much that simple......before you start investing in dies and such make sure that you can get a small shank barrel made in that caliber. Many makers won't chamber the WSM's on small shank barrels. Also make sure that the barrel maker is using a NO TURN neck reamer for chambering.... just to be sure you won't have to turn the necks on your brass.

It isn't a real problem though, Savage use to make small shanks in the WSM and RUM calibers when they first came out....others here (me included) have those calibers on small shank barrels.

Good luck with your build.....you'll enjoy it once it all comes together!

[Alesandro]

Orr89;

I am also working on loads for a 257Wthby I am taking over from my wife. I initially wanted a 25-06 in the Tikka T3 SS flavor but after I got my wife a 7-08 last year she doesn't want to shoot anything else. Since she had a 257 Wthby that will just sit there I might as well as use it and not get the 25-06. I bought a Boyds stock for the 257 and I need to test re-loads.

This next year for re-loading and building a gun is going to be extremely fun.

[Orr89rocz]

Nice. My buddy won a vanguard sub moa 257 weatherby at a gun bash and it is phenomenal on texas deer. I have since moved out of texas and into pa where i was originally from. Our deer look more like elk to those texas breeds but the 257 would still be a great round. I used my 6mm remington for years and never had an issue on any buck.

If you hit them behind the shoulder for a lung shot, they all go down the same. Between 20-70 yards depending they all drop eventually. I used 30/30, 6mm rem, 35 whelen, 376 steyr, and various 12 gauge sabot slugs on deer. Same result. Have yet to try direct shoulder hits however... The 376 leaves a nice hole

[Alesandro]

Apache;

So where did you get your small shank barrel? If it's not going to be too difficult to get a small shank barrel that was reamed for a no-turn neck, should I get the dies I listed above?

One other thing, is there a barrel nut wrench that is preferred by you people who are more knowledgeable and experienced?

[stomp442]

Shilen will make you one for a small shank. Any barrel nut wrench I have used are about the same.

[Apache]

I build all of my own stuff now. Before I started doing that I used SSS, McGowen and Shilen. When I was using them, they would build on a small shank. I assume they still will.

I use a barrel wrench that I bought from Midway.

Those dies are the same ones I use for mine.


ONE MORE THING YOU NEED TO CONSIDER!!!




Once you do one and see just how easy this really is.......you will be doing more!!!!

[Alesandro]

Apache;

So you make your own barrels? If so how much you want for one because you know exactly what I need. PM me if you want to get rid of one.

I do plan on building and playing with more than this first build. I bought my wife a 308 Weather Warrior model 16 a couple of years that she doesn't really like. I am thinking I need to change the barrel to another 6.5 something. Not sure whether it would be a Creedmore or one of the other 6.5 flavors.

To all, thanks for all the help and knowledge shared. I am in the process of acquiring tools and I know I wont stop with one.

[Apache]

I like everything I have. For the moment anyway!!! I have been known to change barrels faster than a woman can buy a new purse on occasions tho!

I do sell a few barrels in several different chamberings on Ebay that I make up as a hobby and to help pay for my own addictions.

Don't sell them here so I don't give Jim (Mr Furious the site owner) any more head aches than he already has.

You should get yourself a paid membership here.....there is a classified section here that has some really good buys in it. And because it's a paid membership, it keeps the morons out that would rip people off with bad sales. Picked up some really good deals there. You'll find these guys on this forum are a bit different than other forums. VERY VERY helpful. Only a handful of trouble makers....and they usually don't last too long before they are sent packin.

Paid membership has several other benefits also. It's well worth the $12 bucks a year.

[Alesandro]

Quick update;

I ordered a set of 6.5/300WSM LEE reloading dies and they are on their way.
I am talking to a barrel manufacture now and will probably be ordering a barrel in January after Christmas stuff is done. One thing the barrel manufacture told me was there is a difference between the 6.5-300WSM and the 6.5/270WSM and that I needed to order my barrel accordingly. I told him I wanted to use 270WSM brass so i will be ordering the 6.5/270WSM barrel with a no turn neck.

Is this the headspace go-gage I need, http://www.midwayusa.com/product/637...ort-magnum-wsm

So am I correct to assume that I can get 6.5/300WSM dies, a barrel reamed for a 6.5/270WSM no turn neck, and a go-gage for a 6.5/300WSM, and be able to load up some cartridges with 270WSM brass and I am good to go?

Sorry if these questions seem repetitive but I am just trying to verify.

thanks for all the help again.

[Apache]

It sounds like you got it figured out! The link goes to a no go gauge....be sure to get the go gauge.

Ask you barrel man what the difference is between the 6.5/270 and the 6.5/ 300. I would like to know. My guess would be just the neck diameter.

Make

[Alesandro]

Apache;

Yup, you are correct about the no go-gage, I will definitely order the go-gage. When I get a chance I will send the barrel manufacturer the question about the difference between the 6.5/300WSM and the 6.5/270WSM.

This is getting pretty exciting. I have been looking for a donor action so I can have another "new" gun but I decided to just use a 110 action in 270Win I already have. It's already been bedded and has an Accu-Trigger. When I assemble everything and my re-loads work out I wont need to upgrade anything else just to use it and start hunting. As funds get available I can then upgrade the stock and trigger but I would rather get a good piece of glass. As of right now I am looking at the Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 line.

I will keep you guys updated as things start to arrive and I am sure I will have questions once I start swapping barrels.

[Russell D]

Have you thought about a 6.5-06AI?

A guy at my work built one and he is getting performance almost identical to a 264 win mag. I was thinking about building one on a howa action I have, but I'm doing a 6.5-284 instead

[Alesandro]

I am getting ready to get my go-gage (verified as "go") and I was going to order a Savage barrel wrench and got a little confused.

The barrel wrench I was looking at is as follows;
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/288...-savage-10-110

The description says it is for a 10/110, I have a 111. Are they all the same, either SA or LA and the numbers are more for huhhh, hmmm, yeah I don't even know what I am trying to ask, will it work for me?

I should be ordering my barrel in the next week. So I should be good to go by spring!!!!

[Alesandro]

Oh yeah, should I upgrade my barrel nut?

I seen some where on the internet that someone did for a more true nut.

If so, can you guys point me in the right direction.

[Apache]

That wrench will do the job. If there's nothing wrong with the nut you have, it will work fine for now. I would spend the extra money for a replacement ground recoil lug though. Don't get the direct replacement but one of the ones that have been ground........such as this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/343...tainless-steel


They come in stainless or chromoly which ever you need for your rifle........I assume it is a small shank too.

You also need to read more on this forum about the different Savage bolt actions.......10; 110; 11; 111; 12; 112 as well as others so you will understand them better. That way you will know what part fits what rifle. A great many are interchangeable.

[Alesandro]

Russel D;

I kind of thought about doing a 6.5-06AI as well but since this is my 1st build I wanted something simple, so to speak.

Apache;
After looking again you are right again, the article I mentioned before talked about changing the recoil lug not the barrel nut.

I will keep you guys advised/look for answers as my build progresses.

[Alesandro]

Apache;

So my last conundrum is where do I find a push-feed WSM Savage bolt head? Are there differences that I need to be aware of, and when the time comes what kind of adjustments will be needed to get ammo to feed correctly from my magazine?

Wow, let me know I my questions start to get to personal.

[Alesandro]

Someone suggested to me that I could use a 300WM push-feed bolt head for my build. Does anyone know if a WSM round (.535") will fit onto a WinMag bolt head (.532")? Is the .003" going to stop my cycle?

To me it shouldn't work correctly but, am I making a mountain out of a mole hill?

I am close to ordering everything I need but I am a little confused about this last issue.

Thanks for all your help.