I would call and ask them at SSS.
OK folks, working on a savage build.. hence why I'm here.
Right now its a savage 110 with 30-06 barrel. 3 screw trigger, factory wooden, non pillar bedded stock.
The direction I'm going is:
Savage 110 action, original bolt and trigger (tuned to 2.75lbs)
Shilen Match stainless barrel, .308 win , 1:10, 24", heavy sporter contour
Competition recoil lug (stainless)
Trued stainless barrel nut
Boyds laminate thumbhole stock with pillar and devcon bedding.
Will truing and timing my action with Mr. Moreo add much if any benefit? Will it require re-bedding my stocks (doign both the factory wood so I can take it out into the woods and beat it up and leave the thumbhole for range work). Do I just ship the action, or the barreled action. Does his price on the webpage include the removal/re-install of the barrel if I ship the whole thing to him?
I would call and ask them at SSS.
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I've already emailed. But lets be honest, I take a companys word with a mountain of salt when I hear them talk about their own products.
There are some posts either in this website or others that have talked about the truing of an action and the effect on accuracy. Some believe it has negligible effect. Some years ago I gave a Model 70 Win black shadow ($300 gun) to a gunsmith to do trigger work, action trued and squared whatever all that is. It cut my groups in half but I don't know how much of it was the trigger vs. the rest of it. I'd be inclined to shoot it first and see how it goes before I have work done on the action. But then that is just me.
Talk to SSS they are not goping to "fluff you" on thier products.
If you still need more information try searching this web site, the subject has been covered a few hundred times.
Will you see any benifit to a SSS T&T action, well I guess it depends on what you precieve as a benifit. If you mean a much lighter bolt lift, and a action that is functionaly correct, then yes you will see a benifit. Will it make you shoot small groups, maybe maybe knot, alot depends on the shooter, and thier abilities. Look at T&T as the "Icing on the cake." Will you have to rebed the action, no you dont, but if the action was warped from the get go causing stess, you may want to look into redoing the bedding.
Patrick has it right about a warped or twisted action. It is very easy to warp an action when you remove the first factory barrel and you'll never know you did it. If I read one of Fred's post right, he straightens the action and squares the lugs with the bolt face and action threads. Do keep in mind that if you change a bolt face on a T&T'd action, it no longer is trued. I have one T&T'd and one that is not and there is a difference.
Do NOT waste your $. If you were having Fred doing the whole build, then why not as he already has it. If your bolt already is smooth to open, you will not feel a difference. The action is not trued as to what a real true job is. Re-cut the lead in on the lugs is not a true job.
I had my action done by fred and the bolt fluted at the same time it is buttery smoth and a thing of beauty.
You just send the action and I would just order the barrel nut and lug from them at the same time.
You'll have to call Lisa and get an authorization number. Print out an order form and send it with you action.
Great people to deal with. Couldn't recommend them more highly.
airdale.. I already have the lug and nut.. I ordered it with the shilen barrel I got from NSS.
If I recall correctly, there is an additional charge to remove and reinstall the barrel and setting the headspace. I had Fred do one for me a while back and
to me it was worth every penny.
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scythefwd, I was pointing out that after a T&T, if you changed the bolt head you would negate the T&T. You could send both bolt heads to Fred and he probably could T&T them both to the action.
Bill
I got that, but the True and Time are two different proceedures and they are independant to each other. Its a symantics thing solely for accuracy.
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.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Competition Barrel nut? so what could that nut possible do that the one from the factory doesn't, Competition recoil lug, take that money and put a good trigger on it will do you more good then that other stuff
I have competition nutz. I just can't post the pic's on this forum.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Frank, the idea is that its been cut perpendicular to the threading.. where there may be not be a perfectly perpendicular cut on the factory. I did it mainly because I was going to a stainless barrel and lug and wanted the nut to match.
As to putting a good trigger on it, I think the factory one will do just fine. A crisp 2.75lb trigger is plenty light for paper punching or field work. I never understood the infatuation people have with very light triggers... And yes, I've handled a nice benchrest trigger, a 2 oz timney I think would qualify wouldnt it?
Making an action true. A proper gunsmith won't warp the receiver while removing it, but I've defianetly seen a joe shmo screw one good.
Making your action Concentric!!
Putting the action on a device that we use to make the action perfectly centered on the lathe, or within .0001" You simply recut the threads in the action to center them with center line. then you take a reamer and run it through race ways in order to make sure your bolt lines up with center line, that way your firing pin is always center line, then you face off the receiver to be perfectly square to center line then you machine the barrel lug to make it true around its full perimeter, then you check the threading on the barrel to make sure its true to center, then you check the Lock Nut(if your going to use a lock nut, keep in mind you don't NEED to use it) Square the locknuts rear face and the threads with center line. Assemble rifle to Saami specs or benchrest specs.
Now, doing all that takes time, hours and money, generally 65$ an hour plus tool sharpening,and handling fees.
You may or may not notice a HUge difference but there will definately be a risen capability of the rifle. The problem is, you can't max out the actions potential then negate the lapping and truing of the rings, High quality Optics, proper torque values, quality bedding, trigger function and safety functions. The darn thing needs to be 100%. If you get 90% of the work done, but still use hornady factory ammo then the other 10% that is the fine art of BR reloading will keep you from those possible sub MOA groupings at 1000. Is it worth it?
Heck Yeah it is, but eventually the full shebang needs to be brought up to spec. If it's a chromoly action you can have a scope base soldered on to the action, then trued in an end mill, then refinished. THat is as good as it gets with stock actions and scope mounting.
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But that has nothing to do with the so called Timing and truing that is being done by SSS. The actions are warped from the factory from heat treat. That is the Truing that is being done. Timing is re cutting the leadin on the lugs and adjusting the primary extraction on the bolt.
I'll bet that Fred does a lot more than this to his own bench guns. He more than likely does a real truing of the threads and mills the face of the bolt among other things. When he was chanrging what was it 100$ to do the T&T is was not too bad. But the new price is not worth it.
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