Reply With QuoteDeleted post. I was obviously wrong.
OK, I am swapping from a 7.08 to a 223. I have changed the mag and bolt head and now it is time to screw on the barrel.
I have new rounds (yes firing pin removed, dont want to start a thread on safety..I read all of that) and I want to to use the tape method and not overwork the brass. I have tried twice now and it has not worked. I have put the round in screw the barrel down to touch the round, add two peices of tape, insert round...AND THE BOLT CLOSES...hard but closes. That is not supposed to happen. I have measured the tape and confirmed what it says on this forum that it is .001.
I am doing something wrong in the process??? How tight should the barrel contact the new round? I have read just touching.
Any Help?
Deleted post. I was obviously wrong.
Last edited by thomae; 10-14-2012 at 09:03 PM.
with soft tape and a soft brass case you CAN force the bolt to close. You are squishing it in there. Using a brass case requires a softer touch. The trick is to stop when you feel resistance on the bolt closing. Doing that with a steel go guage could ding your chamber.
556 ammo may be all over the place. If you have some new 223 that is good. As said before screw the barel up against the case(round). Now mark the barrel with a pencil in line with the scope mount screws using a straight edge or suitable tool. every complete rotation of the barrel moves it .050" in or out depending on which way you turn it. Begin tightening watching your mark. The headspace should open from just the stress put on the threads and you should end up within saami specs if your marks line up after torqing.
You do it once or twice and from then on, you're an EXPERT!
I don't shoot "factory loaded ammo" and never will. I don't use any tape either. I also don't remove the firing pin but I don't set headspace with loaded ammo either.
Run the barrel up close, stuff the round ( with no tape applied) in the chamber, close the bolt and and move the barrel up till you get resistance. Open and close the bolt while you snug up the barrel and nut. Do that a few times. (It's a FEEL thing!) When the bolt closes with a "very slight" resistance, add a piece of tape to the round. If the bolt won't close on the taped round, you're in business.
The tighter you set the headspace, the less your brass moves when fired and the longer it will last. The less you move your brass when you resize, the longer it will last.
Consider shoulder bumping and neck sizing for longer brass life.
When you think you've got the headspace set where you want it, lock the nut. Open and close the bolt. Bolt closes easy? Add tape and see how it feels. Can't close the bolt with the tape on the case head? BINGO! You are now an EXPERT!!
And as you tighten the barrel nut, things will change so make sure you double check a few times to be sure. The nut doesn't have to be THAT TIGHT. A good rap on the wrench with a steel hammer will get the job done. Put a reference mark on the barrel and action (black marker) so if it ever moves, you'll know. Never had one come loose but it doesn't hurt to be sure. ( It's a CYA thing) Masking tape on the action and barrel works good too.
Last edited by Nor Cal Mikie; 10-14-2012 at 11:20 AM.
Nor Cal, that is a very good description of the process.
Thanks everyone. I do have 223 rounds. I think I was squishing it- too hard of hands. Evidence is that newer rounds wound not chamber when tried after setting with used round.
Right now i have it set so it closes with a new round but does not close with 3 layers of tape. Is that good?
Depends on the tape thickness. My preference would be less than .005 for a no go. Cut a snall circle out of a coke can with some cheap scissors and use some grease to hold it in the bolt head recess close the bolt. If no your good if yes you need to close it up.
Last edited by stangfish; 10-14-2012 at 08:19 PM.
How tight the bolt should close or not close on a gauge of case? Take a look at this video ....Originally Posted by acdame
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KICBv-0U87Y
Why the headspace increases can be due to one of two things or both. One the action (boltface) is moving in relationship to the barrel when your tightening the nut and/or two, when the threads are tensioned the barrel is moving forward a few thousandths.
Bill
Good video Bill.
Thanks...Getting ready for a "1st" barrel swap of my own.
Tape is .001X3 or .003 total. So I am going to go with this setting. Thanks for all of the help.
I got sent the wrong gauge (field instead of a "go") so I used brass- but I used FL sized brass outta my die, since I don't shoot factory ammo.
The go gauge arrived ( a week late and a dollar short, as the saying goes...), and the bolt closed just fine on it, anyway.
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