Ive been working for weeks on this stock. I got it from Richards cause that rivet in the forearm of the Boyd's was a deal breaker. Since I was pillar and glass bedding I had the metal down to reciever and barrel, and that's how I was doing my fitting. Thinking I'm finished and putting it back together I get the magazine box and everything back on. Set it in and without screwing anything down I can see that the mag box is keeping it from seating on the rear glass by 1/4". There's not enough wood to remove from the bottom to make it fit, and The original contours by the tang would indicate that I didn't remove the 1/4" with all the hand sanding I had to do. Also the bolt dosent line up with the cut out. Bummer.
Um, are you sure it's the bottom of the mag in the well? I have a .375 H&H, and about as far as you are with a Boyd stock. My action wouldn't fit quite right, but on inspection it was the rear wall of the mag well - it wasn't extended rearward enough and the mag was hanging on that rather than contacting properly on the recoil lug. That's a lateral fit, but it would also stop the mag from sliding down to the bottom of the well. Might want to double-check.
KeS
Try removing trigger to check if it is hitting stock or trigger guard, if that does not help, try removing mag box.
Positive its the bottom. As I tighten the action bolts I can hear wood compressing. When I try to close the bolt the mag box blocks it. When I took it apart there is the perfect shape of the mag box base pressed into the bottom of the well.
What do you guys think about grinding the bottom of the mag box and going with 3+1?
Is your gun a staggerfeed,meaning the box stays with the gun when removed from the gun. If it is centerfeed which I doubt then the mag stays with the stock. Are you sure you arent bedding it to low in the stock? It looks awful low in that stock to me.Your pillars should be above the bedding area for mag clearance,then when you bed it the tops of the pillars should look like a line rather than all of them showing. Do you know anyone locally that would take a look at it to confirm everything is in the right place.
Another thing,your bolt is seriously out of place for full lockup.You need to file the groove deeper so when the bolt is closed the flat is inline with the back of the reciever.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
Oh, wow - he's right. I just looked at this on a bigger screen than a phone. My stock rails are even with the ejection port, with even a little metal showing above it. What does yours look like? And how far is the trigger protruding through the bottom? That action looks low in the stock.
KeS
Staggerfeed. I have the clean metal line in the center of the pillars w bedding surrounding it. I used the factory 110 pillars from stockys that has the notch cut out of the rear pilllar. Using those caused problems but their length didn't change and I relieved the wood around them. With mag box out, it sits on the pillars perfectly. With the box on, the ejection port lines up perfectly with the wood, with just the slightest amount of wood slightly higher then port. I can tourque the front screw with out the mag box hitting too much. Once i tighten the rear theres the conflict. This could mean that the rear pillar was too short for my application. But then the original contours behind the tang still wouldn't fit right and it would sit high. With box on and nothing torqued it looks like the best fit.Originally Posted by jonbearman
The bolt handel isn't locked. It hits the stock and can't close all the way, so you are seeing it only partially closed. It locks up correctly when removed.
This is with nothing torqued, just sitting on mag box. The angle is misleading.....there is just a hair of wood above the ejection port.
Here's a couple of mine to compare to. I realize it's not the same stock, just use the info if you can. -- KeS
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