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Thread: Trigger Job

  1. #1
    Mattd
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    Trigger Job


    While i'm waiting on my laminated stock to get here any day i started reading up on glass and pillar bedding which lead to lots of other good info including a tip to lighten up the trigger....replacing the factory spring with .040 (1mm) wire. my trigger has never been poor, maybe a little heavy, but crisp anyway. with doing nothing else but replacing the spring it is SOOOOO nice. felt too light, but i repeatedly bounced the butt stock off a rubber mat hard, slammed the stock with my palm, slammed the blot shut and no fires at first. came back to it again and after pounding on it very hard with my palm in the area of the trigger it did slip. so i backed the screw out a 1/4 turn and couldnt reproduce the misfire, but still have a fantastic trigger.



    before and after materials

  2. #2
    Basic Member
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    Mattd, i usually tape the safety in the fire position when bouncing the stocked rifle off the floor to keep it from setting itself in the safe position, then you don't know if it's working properly or not. i bounce mine on the linoleum or concrete flooring without the scope mounted and if it doesn't fire then i know it's safe to use.
    make sure firearm is empty at all times when performing these tests!!!

  3. #3
    Nandy
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    I implement a secondary safe... I wont close the bolt until im ready to fire. It works for me.

  4. #4
    Team Savage 243LPR's Avatar
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    Is that a paper clip?
    "An armed society is a polite society"
    "...shall not be infringed" What's the confusion?

  5. #5
    cgeorgemo
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    Quote Originally Posted by 243LPR View Post
    Is that a paper clip?
    Not anymore....

  6. #6
    Basic Member
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    If the spring was made from a paper clip, it will not work long. Just long enough to be dangerous. Lack of tensile strength.

  7. #7
    Mattd
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    Not a paper clip....1mm galvanized steel wire. Altho that could easily be what paper clips are made of

  8. #8
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    I am afraid it will not hold up. Hope I am wrong. It looks too easy to shape. If so, it will lose its flex soon and be unsafe.

  9. #9
    Basic Member brtelec's Avatar
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    I found it easier to just buy 10 feet of music wire from here: http://howardpianoindustries.com/pia...0-lengths.html
    Any clod can have the facts; having opinions is an art.

  10. #10
    stangfish
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    Alas not all wire is equal. send me an envelope and I will send you one already shapped out of .040.

  11. #11
    stangfish
    Guest
    I could be wrong but the angle on that trigger does not look correct. If that has been altered, please correct it. With a light spring this could be dangerous. The two surfaces should be vertical and nearly parrallel. I modify the sear one the bolt/ trigger release part and just polish the trigger sear.
    Last edited by stangfish; 09-09-2012 at 06:33 AM.

  12. #12
    Mattd
    Guest
    i haven't altered it and I've had it with the factory spring for more then 10 years. which 2 surfaces should be parallel? the sear and the ledge it rests against?

  13. #13
    stangfish
    Guest
    yes.

  14. #14
    Basic Member
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    Mattd,

    From your picture, I can see you've got too much screw engaged on your trigger job.

    The picture of the wire you used for a trigger spring tells me that it's too soft. That also coincides with the excess screw engagement.

    What you need is spring steel and a proper shape to it to maintain the setting you've chosen.

    Soft wire will be dangerous.

    Best regards

    Three 44s

  15. #15
    Basic Member
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    Spring steel or piano wire as said...

    I busted a very small slide stop spring wire on my CZ... and someone recommended heavy fishing wire (solid, not stranded) leader (which I happened to have) that also has the correct properties. Works great...

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