Primer Crimp?

[beartooth91]

What does a primer crimp look like and what are the good ways to remove it?
I was given a bunch of once-fired PMC .223 brass. They have Federal head stamps, so, I may use them in the distant future. I went ahead and resized a couple, to use for dummy rounds. Comparing the primer pocket to my Hornady brass; the PMC's appear to have something which looks like a sleeve, in the primer pocket. Is this the remnants of the primer crimp? Or am I seeing things? I've heard - but don't know the details of how - the crimps can be removed with my Lee primer pocket cleaning tool. Anyone know how this is best done....assuming what I'm seeing are primer crimps?

Thanks

[wbm]

I collect once fired .223 brass from a local range used by law enforcement officers. The "sleeve" you are seeing is found on most of the brass I collect. I use a Forster primer pocket deburring tool and ream it away until primers seat smoothly.

[darkker]

Usually 2 styles of primer crimps.
One looks like you describe. What it actually is is a circular ring "drug" toward the primer, similar to how Gas keys get staked to an AR BCG sometimes.
The other is 4 areas scratched toward the primer, looks like maltese cross.

There are a couple of primer pocket swaging tools available. Personally what I have done is to use the Lee Chamfer/Deburing tool. Stick it in the primer pocket and give it a twist. Until you get the Feel for it, go slow. If you take too much off, then the primers don't sit properly.

Here is the "ring" type crimp:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=433238

Here is the "cross" type:
http://davecushman.net/303headstamps.html

[beartooth91]

Usually 2 styles of primer crimps.
One looks like you describe. What it actually is is a circular ring "drug" toward the primer, similar to how Gas keys get staked to an AR BCG sometimes.
The other is 4 areas scratched toward the primer, looks like maltese cross.

There are a couple of primer pocket swaging tools available. Personally what I have done is to use the Lee Chamfer/Deburing tool. Stick it in the primer pocket and give it a twist. Until you get the Feel for it, go slow. If you take too much off, then the primers don't sit properly.

Ok, I took my Lee Deburring tool to one of them and gave it a few twists. It looks to me that it bevelled the top of the sleeve/circular ring. Is that all that's required or does the entire sleeve have to come out? Or is it deburr/twist/try (prime) until one of the new ones seats?

One other question: All of this PMC (Federal) brass is light and discolored on the shoulder and neck area, all the way around the case. Is this from annealing?

[darkker]

Correct Bear.
It isn't actually a sleeve, just a circular "pinch" at the base of the case. so chamfering it out should be all that is needed. start slow, and try it. I used a spent primer to do my "testing" that way you aren't losing good primers if you haven't taken enough material off.

Correct about the annealing discoloration, just ignore it.

[justin1098]

I use the chamfer too too. I have a redding one that i chuck up into a drill at low speed and can get through them quicker. I just put a little bevel and the primers go right in.
Lake City brass works out great but the pmc brass i have done is still too tight to seat the primers on some of them. I completely destroyed a primer before I knew about crimps. Amazingly the primers never went off even when flattened by my priming tool. If you test, stop if it doesn't want to go in or you will end up like i did with the partially inserted primer trapping the shell in the shell plate.

The "sleeve" you are seeing is just a heavy crimp. like a metal tube was hammered around the primer pocket after the primer was seated.

The discolored area on the neck down to just below the shoulder is indeed from annealing.

[rjtfroggy]

I was doing the primer pocket thing with the cutting tool, then I found out about the swage dies from RCBS what a difference.I found one on ebay delivered for $12(used), then I got the harder rods on ebay for $5(the rcbs rods bend easy).
I've been told the Dillon tool is much better and faster to use but at the price it is it should be.
Do yourself a favor if doing lots of brass get the proper tool,makes life much easier.