Worth hanging onto?

[bottlerocket]

I have a Savage 111 in 308. Its as is from the factory with the sporter barrel profile, black synthetic stock and no accutrigger. I have a Nikon 3-9x40 on it and thats all.

My question is even with some great handloads I can't seem to bring the accuracy of this thing down to where I expected it to be. At 100yd I can group just as well with my Marlin 30-30 and put better groups together with my 20" AR. The action on my Savage is in good shape and I can't really find anything wrong with the rifle. I recently change out the firing pin due to the retainer (I think thats what its called) splitting in half. So I upgraded to the new firing pin setup.

I purchased this rifle a couple years ago as my first rifle, second overall gun I've ever owned and first hunting weapon. I basically bought it because it was a well known brand and the only left handed bolt action at the gun show.

I have almost a hoarder mentality with my guns, I really don't like to sell them. But this thing I find myself shooting less and less and its becoming a struggle to justify keeping it. I took my first deer with it, otherwise it would probably already be gone in favor of at least a newer Savage with the accutrigger and a SHORT ACTION 308 instead of the long. Would I be better of just selling this one off and getting something with slightly more inherent accuracy or are there things that can be done to this one for a reasonable price? Its a basic rifle and I don't want to spend >$1000 on it just to bring it sub-MOA.

[nsaqam]

Rebarrel it with any of several barrels chambered for the cartridge of your choice.

Even if you went absolute top of the line with a barrel, say a Benchmark, Brux, PacNor, Rock etc. you'd be spending less than $500.
Do it with a factory takeoff barrel and you'd be into it for under $100.

[bottlerocket]

Rebarrel it with any of several barrels chambered for the cartridge of your choice.

Even if you went absolute top of the line with a barrel, say a Benchmark, Brux, PacNor, Rock etc. you'd be spending less than $500.
Do it with a factory takeoff barrel and you'd be into it for under $100.

Well its really not the caliber that I'm not fond of. I really do like the .308's versatility, cost effectiveness and recoil. I'm also pretty deep into reloading 308 and the fact that its my only 308 platform would kinda negate that.

[nsaqam]

Well its really not the caliber that I'm not fond of. I really do like the .308's versatility, cost effectiveness and recoil. I'm also pretty deep into reloading 308 and the fact that its my only 308 platform would kinda negate that.

Rebarrel to the .308 then. Plenty of those out there.

[calib]

so get a a pre fit 308 barrel in whatever contour you would like weather it be an after market or a factory take off and get back to the 308 loading. if it is the barrel then this will take care of it and the savage factory barrel is capable of shooting tight little groups

[airaddict]

Maybe try bedding it......maybe the barrel is rubbing somewhere or the tang is rubbing. Ive seen many instances on here where one or both of those things can make a crappy factory setup a decent moa setup. Its cheaper to try that than spend 100 or so on a diff factory barrel or 300+ on an aftermarket barrel.....jmho

brian

[skypilot]

^^^^This.... I would verify there is no rubbing or interference from the stock. Then torque to specs, shoot, and then bed if it looks like no real barrel issue.

[keeki]

What all have you tried? Have you scrubbed the barrel, torqued the action screws, made sure the recoil lug is back all the way, floated the tang, and made sure the barrel was floated?

[tammons]

Put a SSS trigger on it, recoil lug, a decent barrel and good stock and bed it and you will have a shooter.

I have found that some Savage sporter barrels just dont shoot. Dont know why, maybe a bad chamber job ? but I have had a few that were so-so.
Have a 223 sporter that will not tighten up no matter what I have tried.

You sure you dont have a scope/mount problem ??

[bottlerocket]

Scope is fine. I just had new rings put on it and the scope works well. I had it boresighted again and its right on zero.

Stock is just like it came from the factory. I'll have to look into some of the things that were listed. I figured the sporter profile barrels wouldnt be as accurate as the bull profile, but this is quite sad.

My question, when it comes down to the end is: Is it worth it keeping this rifle and modding it up or just buy a new Savage with the better stock and trigger? Its already set up with no issues and selling this one to buy a newer Savage I almost feel I could spend less that route than rebuilding mine.

[stangfish]

What weight bullet are you shooting. If 150 grainers go to the 165s or 180's and see how they shoot. How did you test your scope?

[tammons]

What sort of ammo are you using, handloads or factory stuff ??

SSS trigger is a must have IMO and a lot better than any Savage trigger.
A machined recoil lug is also a must if after accuracy and most Savage barrels will mot shoot as clean and as tight as
match grade barrel out of the box IMO.

For instance I had a Normal action no work, Sheilen 6mmBR barrel from midway, IE not match, machined recoil lug in an unbedded choate stock, but choate stocks have an aluminum V block. Had a good steel rail on it, Burris extreme rings and a nightforce scope and it would shoot 3/4" at 300 yards when I did my part and with the right load, and that was with very little break in. I think the difference is the tolerances, chamber and most match barrels will be lapped.

Also had a 223 varmint rifle, factory barrel and dropped it into a bedded medalist stock. Took forever until the barrel straightened out like 200-250 rounds.
I think it was just a rough bore, but once it was broken in it would shoot 3/8" groups with the right load.

[racerdave34]

Bottle,

I think I know what you are going through. I have the 110 pre accutrigger in 30-06 package deal. I bought it to replace my 30-30 but never did get comfortable with it. I always went back to the 30-30 since it was more practical for the North Carolina woods. I got the oppurtunity to hunt Idaho next year so I brought the 30-06 out. Bought a new scope and sighted it in. After reading this sight for awhile I have decided to change it since I have over a year to do it.

I got a Duramaxx stock from a member here. I wasn't familiar with the stock since I have just gotten into rifle mods. The Duramaxx stock makes the factory stock seem like a cheap toy. If you enjoy building or tinkering I would suggest to build what you got. I'm gonna replace my barrel with a Shaw. I was gonna order it this month but my sons Transmission had other plans. So i will place the order next month. I just bedded the stock monday night and enjoyed myself. I'm looking forward to building this rifle and when it is done I can look at it and know its my own little design and enjoy shooting it.

As Nsaqam said if you buy a newer model you will still have what you already have.

[Blue Avenger]

I figured the sporter profile barrels wouldnt be as accurate as the bull profile, but this is quite sad.

.

should make no difference on accuracy of first 3-5 shots. depending on rate of fire, heat could start opening groups. If you want to play with it and have someone that can work cheap, cut a 1/2" or 2" off and see what it dose. Kinda like the browning boss, tuning your barrel.

[jimbo88mm]

My question, when it comes down to the end is: Is it worth it keeping this rifle and modding it up or just buy a new Savage with the better stock and trigger? Its already set up with no issues and selling this one to buy a newer Savage I almost feel I could spend less that route than rebuilding mine.

First you have to decide what you plan on doing with the rifle in question. Is this for range fun, hunting rig, competition, etc?

After you answer that question for yourself then you have a couple of things to think about.

From my perspective there are really only two reason why one would consider rebuilding a sub performing rifle:

1) Super tight budget
2) Project gun for fun


Reasons for not making a project out it:

1) Available budget is large enough to buy what you want retail.
2) Not interested in making a project out of it or lack the time and patience to do it right.


If you are willing to put the time in and look for the right deals you can collect all the major parts (Barrel, stock, trigger) and build up a very nice rifle for less then buying a retail gun. If you are not interested in making a project out of it then I would sell the rifle and use the proceeds to get the rifle you want.

[bottlerocket]

First you have to decide what you plan on doing with the rifle in question. Is this for range fun, hunting rig, competition, etc?

After you answer that question for yourself then you have a couple of things to think about.

From my perspective there are really only two reason why one would consider rebuilding a sub performing rifle:

1) Super tight budget
2) Project gun for fun


Reasons for not making a project out it:

1) Available budget is large enough to buy what you want retail.
2) Not interested in making a project out of it or lack the time and patience to do it right.


If you are willing to put the time in and look for the right deals you can collect all the major parts (Barrel, stock, trigger) and build up a very nice rifle for less then buying a retail gun. If you are not interested in making a project out of it then I would sell the rifle and use the proceeds to get the rifle you want.

I want it for hunting and range time. Obviously more hunting than range, basically a hunting rig I can trust out to 250-300 yards and have fun at the range with. I'm not on a SUPER tight budget but not exactly looking to spend a couple thousand on a new rig. I enjoy tinkering on guns and learning about them as well. I'm going to look into getting some materials to bed the rifle. Do I need a special tool for the recoil lug? I am planning to just bed the stock/float the tang, replace the recoil lug and check the action screws. I also either want to have some work done to the factory trigger or just replace it with an SSS unit. Last case I will replace the stock and barrel. Scope has been verified on my buddy's .270 so it keeps POI. I will look into a few other cartridges instead of the barnes as well.

Thanks again guys!

[nsaqam]

I prefer the pre-accutrigger triggers over the AT. They can be tuned just as finely as the AT and you don't have that stupid little blade in the trigger shoe.

While it's true you could buy another Savage rather than rebarreling this one you'd still have a factory tube and an IM stock.

I'd spend the money on an aftermarket tube, a new stock, and a trigger tune. You'd then have a rifle uniquely yours and a better shooting and feeling rifle than any of the mid to low end factory Savages.

[handirifle]

You haven't really stated what you have done to fix it. Are you sure the scope is a good one? Has it been tested on another proven accurate rifle? IS the rifle bedded? If not you might try that. Has the bore been verified to be copper or lead free? Just scoping the rifle and throwing loads at it will not assure ANY rifle will be accurate.

What load combinations have you tried. What powders, bullets, bullet weights, and primers? Are the cases all the same brand? Sometimes I mix brass when making up loads, but when my groups are 1.5" I am satisfied.

You say your Marlin 30-30 shoots better. I know quite a few Marlins, my 45-70 is one of them, that will shoot MOA, or SUB MOA. My 45-70 GS will cloverleaf three shot groups of the Barnes 300gr TSX all the time, so claiming the Marlin shoots better doesn't say much. Please be specific.

[LabRat2k3]

I would change the stock to either a B&C Medalist sportster stock ($214 from stocky's) or a Boyds ($92) and bed it, and either work on the factory trigger (free) or install a SSS trigger ($91 form gunshack). A sportster barrel should be able to shot good groups they just heat up quicker. So for anywhere between $100 to $350 you could improve the rifle you have.

[ellobo]

Just becasue a scope is boresighted does not mean it is good. Shifting Point of impact is a good indication the scope needs repair. Do you let the barrel cool between shots? If you go to the range with a clean barrel run a dry patch down the bore and then shoot a few fouling shots. Let cool and try again, cooling between shots. Sporter barrels heat fast and cause shots to wander. What rate oif twist is your barrel? Over the years on here I have heard many say the Savage barrels shoot best in the 168 gr. bullet wgt. range. I have a stock 110 I rebarreled to 7x57 Mauser the only change and it shoots sub MOA. I only make sure the barrel is free floated as is the tang.

[bottlerocket]

Thanks a bunch guys, I have quite a bit to work with now.

I'll triple check the scope and rings to make sure nothing is loose at all. So is it worth experimenting with bedding the stock or don't bother and get an upgraded one? I'll also check out the torque on the barrel nut and the action screw (is that what its called? the one under the stock).

I have no reason to believe there is any lead or copper in the barrel. I clean this thing until the patches are coming out nearly spotless every time I take it shooting and its kept in a climate controlled safe.

Just becasue a scope is boresighted does not mean it is good. Shifting Point of impact is a good indication the scope needs repair. Do you let the barrel cool between shots? If you go to the range with a clean barrel run a dry patch down the bore and then shoot a few fouling shots. Let cool and try again, cooling between shots. Sporter barrels heat fast and cause shots to wander. What rate oif twist is your barrel? Over the years on here I have heard many say the Savage barrels shoot best in the 168 gr. bullet wgt. range. I have a stock 110 I rebarreled to 7x57 Mauser the only change and it shoots sub MOA. I only make sure the barrel is free floated as is the tang.

I am actually using Barnes TTSX 150 gr bullets in front of Winchester brass, CCI LR primers and 45gr of H4895.

I fire the rifle once every 3 minutes roughly to let it cool with the bolt open, but I do not clean between shots. I do not know the twist rate of the barrel.

[bottlerocket]

Started looking into bedding the rifle today, turns out the stock has the built in pillars. Apparently this is an older rifle than I thought. Not sure which stock to go with at this point since pillar bedding is kinda out of the question

[cgeorgemo]

You said you had a new scope rings put on it.
Did you check to make sure the front scope bases are tightened down?
Sometimes it can feel tight but not be snug the base because the screw is bottomed out on the barrel threads.

[LabRat2k3]

Have you tried a different bullet, or powder? Just because a load is lights out on one rifle does not mean it will be in another. You may just have to work to find a load it likes.
As for bedding the factory stock, you can if you want too, but it seems abit like trying to polish a turd to me; those old tupperware stocks leave a lot to be desired.

[BobT]

I know a lot of guys like them but I have never had a lot of luck getting the Barnes X bullets to shoot tiny little groups, I've had far better luck with Sierra and Nosler. You could try trimming the barrel as BA suggested, it has worked wonders for me on occasion and a new crown usually won't hurt either.