just installing a barrel, not taking one off. any reason i cant take a 2x4, drill a hole, and cut it in half? can use metal plate on the out side of the block for my bench vise to apply even pressure. any thoughts?
just installing a barrel, not taking one off. any reason i cant take a 2x4, drill a hole, and cut it in half? can use metal plate on the out side of the block for my bench vise to apply even pressure. any thoughts?
as long as you can hold it tight enough to tighten the nut down, I don't see any reason it won't work. I did the same thing for my barrel vice, but I don't use it for any thing but holding the barrel so I can work on it, I still use a steel action wrench to tighten and remove the barrel nut.
Thats what I use when Im doing mine. I put electrical tape around the spot the blocks are going to be placed, slide on barrel wrench, place in vice & clamp down. If it truns when I work the wrench, just tighten the vise more.
thought it would work. thanks too all
I used a 2x4 piece of oak. I use duct tape on the barrel. Oak is hard enough to mark a blued barrel if it slips.
Bill
Pic of my homemade barrel vise.
That looks lik it would work and I see a rotary sear dressing machine too! Just the ticket for fine tuning a trigger. ;D
I used the flapper wheel to smooth out the steps in the hole through the oak blocks.
To make a tapered hole, I drilled the block with 3 different sized bits each about one third of the way. sawed it in half, and then transitioned the steps to make a taper to match the barrel.
I use a BF hammer to adjust the trigger. ;D
I use your idea, with oak blocks, on the "action", in a vise. But I install a socket head cap screw in the oak, that the recoil lug can ride
against, preventing anything from turning. This even works when removing a factory barrel. I only "install" my barrels with 40ft #'s
of torque, so thats not a problem. I got this idea from another member on this site. Good Luck-Good Shooting ... Jim :)
Sorry, I don't do pictures yet :-[
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