Matt,
Haven't heard of the "ball bearing" trick. But here is what helped some of my Savages.
The rear-most baffle on the bolt, the one that touches the bolt handle. It has a ramp, that the bolt handle rides against; to give you some mechanical advantage. The angles where the baffle, and the bolt handle meet are RARELY matched very well. I hate to say Dremel, because people like to hog metal away... But get a dremel and polish, or smooth the engaging surfaces. Make sure that they meet with no edges, or partial contact areas.
That will do the most for the bolt lift. You can also polish the groove in the bolt body where the cocking pin rides, but that is not the bulk of the rub ususally.

As to the accutrigger, Savage has a REAL QC issue with them, as far as consistency. With all of mine, what is typically the case(especially with someone's used gun) is that it is out of adjustment.
Usually two things:

1: the adjustment is too light, so the force of the sear blade trips the trigger before you fully dissengage it. So just turn the adjustment screw up to more weight.
2: They tried to polish(means they filed) the engagement surfaces. They got the angles wrong; the accu-triggers are crappy potmetal, and wear quickly after the surface is taken down. For this, you usually have to replace parts, or really crank the adjustment weight up.