EGW plus a hack saw.
hey guys, who makes 2 piece 20 moa bases for the older 110 flatback action? thanks
EGW plus a hack saw.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
Exactly what I was thinking.Originally Posted by geargrinder
Well i can't comment on the 2 piece base but a shim kit on the rear base will get you the 20 moa. blue
harder to control 2 piece from putting twisting pressure on the scope tube unless you can lap the rings to get them true or use burris sig rings. Shims could make it worse if you have machining tolerances already working against you. final finish on flat backs was done by hand. some times they had a bad day error to add to the bad alinement error
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
That will also put a nice twist into your scope.Originally Posted by bluealtered
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
to shim the rear wouldnt you need progressive shims from front to rear in order to keep the top of the bases in line??
Something like that, but it would be near impossible to accomplish correctly.Originally Posted by ttfreestyle
So, I think the only two reasonable options is to hack saw a 1-piece, or a flat two piece with Burris Signature Zee's
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
It's been so long, I believe the two piece, flat back tapered base on my rifle is from Nightforce.
You might check with them to see if they still make them.
-Rick
Unbiased AR15, Barnard, BAT, Borden, Browning, Kelbly, Marsh, Nesika Bay, Remington, Ruger, Savage, Ultralight Arms owner. I like 'em all.
Well i guess i should throw away all those great targets with groups made from a rifle with shims under the base. blue
Anybody else read precision shooting mag? A few months back they had a good artical on properly monting a scope. They used a 1pc base, opened up the holes to use larger screws for attachment, and added a 5th screw. Then bedded under the rear of the base to eliminate any stress on the action. Then checked for proper ring allingment. Included before and after targets. The before targets were good, but the after were better.
The only way I would attempt that would be to use Weaver style bases and then use Burris rings with offset inserts.
Easy there.Originally Posted by bluealtered
I never said it wouldn't work. I just said that is was a bad way to get 20 MOA. It has ill consequences to your scope. The only way it wouldn't mess with your scope is if you are using Burris Signature rings. Even then, you'd use the offset inserts in the rings not shims under the base.
Shims under the base are only a good idea when your action is not straight and the goal is to align the bases.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
I think the simple solution would be to replace the rings with the Burris set, they make the Sig rings for both the Weaver bases and the Leupold twist in bases, I did this on my Remington 700 7mm mag when I found my scope did not have enough elevation to get me to 1K yards.
Somewhere around here is the formula to get the correct MOA out of the Burris rings, as you do not get a true moa number just by adding their rings as specified, IE: I put in 20moa up in the rear and 5moa down in the front thinking I was getting 25 moa, but once the formula was applied I was getting a true 19 (something like that)
Curt
The rings are on sale now at Optics Planet for $28.00 and the insert pack is another $9 so you will have all of the different insert options.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/burris-1...unt-rings.html
MOA Calculator.
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...ation-changes/
Ok, i'll calm down, guess i shouldn't get up at 1:30am and start drinking coffee, and to be honest the words hacksaw blade and firearm parts together have always set me off. While what i suggested to do to get 20moa may not be the best way, it does work and has produced very good groups.
After spending $100 for brand name rings that left marks on the scope i decided to try another way. I found that using felt between the rings and scope not only works very well and locks the scope in place like you wouldn't believe, it also keeps the base differences from leaving ring marks. Now as to it changing it from 20moa to + or - 20moa i can't say, i simply know it did give me the moa i needed. How far a person could go with this before leaving ring marks remains to be seen.
I think if you take a junk scope and try it you might be supprised. blue
ok tried nightforce and they have discontinued the flat back models but Ken Farrow makes them. thanks guys..
Bookmarks