Anyone know if Savage is going to make another run of these? I would really like to have one, but they are out of stock everywhere.
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Anyone know if Savage is going to make another run of these? I would really like to have one, but they are out of stock everywhere.
Nice job on the photos, Starosta! You are a quick learner.
I second the great photos. Mine come from my cell phone. Got my bipod today. And a Past recoil pad, so I can try the 168 SMKs.
I had a feeling when we went viral on the 10TR that it would sell out quickly. Already wish I had got a second one.
Looking at better stocks, I like the Stocky's Bobby Hart AccuBlock Long Range Target / Tactical but the Savage is left out of the good stuff.
HS has •PST114 Savage 12, 10FP Heavy Barrels, new 4.40" Screw Spacing, Detachable Magazine version
Thanks, guys, I am glad you like my pics :eagerness:
Be careful about bolt release on the bottom, some stocks are said to have problem with this - as far as I know.Quote:
Originally Posted by brasse
Savage Arms 10 TR LE, 308Win
- 20" threaded heavy barrel (button rifled, twist 1:10)
- AccuStock - dural full-tang bedding, beaver forend with 2 studs for accessory (bipod, sling)
- AccuTrigger - adjustable trigger (1.5 - 6 pounds) with trigger safety
- floating bolt head
- DBM, capacity 4+1
- one-piece EGW base, 0 MOA
- tactical bolt knob
- SubMOA out-of-the-box guaranteed
I must admit I haven't noticed the "5R Obermayer rifling" at all...
Could it be found among Savage features, concerning barrel?
http://www.savagearms.com/accuracy/
(Unable to check it by myself right now.)
Picked mine up yesterday. The picatinny base will have to be shipped to me as it wasn't included. I am already getting finish wear on the left side of the tang and operation of the bolt has completely worn through the finish in this area. I haven't shot it yet only operated the bolt to kind of break it in as it felt pretty rough right out of the box. It smoothed up a lot after operating the bolt for a while. The tang is free floated except for a small spot touching right behind the bolt handle. It should be a pretty simple fix. Other than these minor things I'm very happy with it so far. It seems like a lot of gun for the money. It'll probably take a couple of weeks to get some glass on it and get to the range.
Got my EGW 109150 rail today, that was fast.
Shooting my Norma 150GR today. I ordered 10 boxes from Midway, came to $22.27 per box.
Took the stock off while at the range, adjusted the Accutrigger to minimum. I was amazed that when the stock was put back on it shot 4 inches left and 4 inches high. Just two bullets later shooting bulls eyes.
But I did shoot some nice groups less than a quarter at 100 yards.
brasse: Was taking the stock off without any problem, following user manual?
The POI was moved only for first two shots? Sounds strange for me...
Just two screws using an allen wrench. One in front of the magazine latch and one underneath the trigger bolt release slide. Comes right off. These Accustocks do not have the old wedge of the early Accustocks.
I adjusted the scope very quickly, next shot was only half an inch off after adjusting, was level with bulls eye but still half an inch left. Next shot was dead on.
But with less trigger pull (don't have a scale) guessing about 2 pounds, my groups were much better.
I also added a Kick-Ezz stick on stock cheek pad, guess it reduced my cheek pulse that drives my crazy.
Guess after 122 rounds through it the barrel is broken in. I will be shooting 40 rounds each time I take it to the range. I put a bi-pod on it, don't like shooting from it.
But I can highly recommend the Norma USA TAC Ammunition 308 Winchester 150 Grain Full Metal Jacket. Still available at Midway. If I can shoot sub MOA with it you can too.
Going to put my EGW rail from Savage on. It is much higher quality than the cheap rail I am using.
brasse: Thanks for very inspiring post you made :smug:
I missed that you adjusted scope after reinstalling the stock - now I get it.
I won't be afraid of taking the stock off and adjusting the trigger too, but...
I'll have to get US size of allen wrench first - quite rare round here - and in combination with torque wrench it could still be work for someone with better equipment :confused:
Thanks for mentioning Kick-Eez cheek protector - and this is a big Yes: I do fight with my heart pulse a lot shooting with my .22 "precision rifle".
So, is the impact on pulse transmission reduction really significant?
Anyway, have to check my scope height first - my stock should be adjusted corresponding to required cheek height first - but good to know this product and your experience.
About ammo:
Norma 150grs is probably unavailable in Czech Rep. (at least I googled none) but I have already bought some Sako 168grs HPBT so I hope it will be good enough :smug:
Cartriges will be used for reloading to achieve even better level of accuracy and first few tens will be "wasted" on scope adjustments and dutiful break-in.
At least that's my future plan :rolleyes: ...together with necessity of learning a lot about shooting (mid/long range) itself.
Why do You not like shooting from bi-pod and what do you use instead - backpack or some kind of bag?
Thanks!
I think so. I can see the scope reticle moving over 2 inches at 200 yards. So taming that cheek pulse is important at least to me.Quote:
So, is the impact on pulse transmission reduction really significant?
I am sure the Sako 168grs HPBT will shoot great. I was shooting cheaper ammo to sight in the scope and break in the barrel correctly. Recently got some Atomic 126 GR Sierra softpoint thread at http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...rra-Soft-Point
I have some Federal Premium Sierra Match King 168 HPBT coming. That ammo is the "Gold" standard for 308 ammo.
Thanks, my cheek part should be on the way, I'll see if any wedge will have to be sticked in.
Now I have the optics mounted and I am getting all cleaning accessories on one heap before I start with breaking-in.
When I dry-tried the trigger, I decided not to adjust it yet - as I've read about problems with triggers tunned to low setting under 2lbs (even when it IS in manufacturer's range of adjustment).
I mean possible "setting rifle off into the safety" while cycling and closing the bolt with higher intensity. It's been described in other threads and one has to lift and close bolt to recycle trigger.
And, at last - I felt quite comfortable about the trigger pull. I will try and see.
What do You use instead of bipod?
Go ahead and set the trigger as light as it will go and dry fire it some. It wont hurt anything and will give you a good idea of what to expect. I really don't think you're going to have a problem. I think the reason you hear about problems with them is that if you don't have a problem then there's no need for an internet post and those that do have a problem post all over the place trying to find a quick answer. I have never had a problem with any of my accutriggers they all work just as they are supposed to including my 10TR. Very smooth and precise even on the lightest setting.
Personally I prefer a good set of bags at the range and a tree or other stable object in the field over a bi pod any day.
Shot some PPU 168 Gr HPBT today at just 100 yards. Super accurate. Pretty sure you can get that where you live Starosta.
Anyone notice some ammo are really tight in the 10TR chamber?
The cheaper Armscor 147GR and the PPU 168 Gr HPBT are hard to push to chamber, while the Atomic 126 GR and the Norma 150 Gr are as smooth as butter chambering.
I shot some Federal power shok 180 Gr the 10TR chambered great.
Kelly
Shooting the 10TR today. Another shooter was using a Rem 700 in 308, he had a cheap $35 muzzle brake and wanted to try mine with the JP Enterprises "Cooley" brake. He said my brake was three times more effective than his brake. He is going to order one today.
Sometimes the reviews at Midway are really helpful.
Does it mean You haven't noticed this "falling firing pin" ever - even on lightest settings?
Thanks for some ammo tips. I believe it'll take me some time to shoot a few hundreds of SAKOs first ;-)
But I'll see if I get a chance to reload some later...
JP Cooley was also my choice. Very nice and easy to clean, said to be very effective, cool :-D
Unfortunately there is no chance to get it to Europe for reasonable price so I'll try to have some custom-made done (pricepoint around 30-60 USD). Well, to be honest to get it here at all :'(
Quote Originally Posted by big honkin jeep View Post
I have never had a problem with any of my accutriggers they all work just as they are supposed to including my 10TR. Very smooth and precise even on the lightest setting.
Does it mean You haven't noticed this "falling firing pin" ever - even on lightest settings?
Yes that's what I mean. I do not have a rifle with the "red" accutrigger but I own accutrigger equipped 12BVSS a 12FV 110FP a 10PC and a 10 TR and have worked on several others for friends. I have never had an accutrigger malfunction of any kind. I have read about malfunctions on the internet from pushing the blade from the side and triggers that wont cock properly without the safety blade catching, but have never experienced any malfunction of any kind even when pushing from the side and trying to re create what I've read about. All my triggers are at their lowest setting. I have no doubt that a few may have slipped through the cracks but I have never seen one.
I suggest you try yours and see what happens. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
I just found this thread, didn't even know this rifle existed, man its nice looking. I have the 5R on my 10 FP in 308, Savage installed it when I complained to them that it wouldn't shoot under 1MOA, it now shoots 0.5 MOA. I cant find any info on this model anywhere.
Savage has nothing. Use Google
Just a thought on the p.o.a. shifting when you remove and reattach the stock, if when you first get the rifle and clean it remove the stock as well to make sure there isn't anything left laying in there from assembly, (it only takes a spec of something to change your bedding and it happens).
When putting it back together use a torque wrench and adjust to the specs in the owners manual, if you do this from the start each time you remove the stock you will probably have very little need to readjust the scope as often or as much.
Has anyone weighed their tr before putting on your scope etc. I just wonder how close the true weight is to the stated weight, thanks. blue
Hey, blue, I did...
Mine was 3.9kg (8.6 lbs) out of the box - bolt in, empty mag, EGW base, thread protected.
Now, I am at 5.4kg (11.9 lbs) with rings, optics and bi-pod. Eventually I would like to add brake and stock pad. And this is the 20inch version...
Quite heavy, isn't it?
Hi Starosta, thats what one of the reviews said as well for weight. Savage has always been a little modest about the rifle weights, but thats ok. I like everybody else can't find one anyway so i may go to the new version of the PC since i can find that.
It may be a little heavy but your most likely to be sitting or laying down when you shoot it so it should work out ok, but it may get to be a bit much if you pack it around all day. Thanks for the help, blue.
Mine was 8.5 lbs - bolt in, empty mag, thread protected. My scope and rings with the rail weighs another 35 ounces. But for a while I had a Nikon Buckmaster scope on it, scope rings and rail was less than 22 ounces. If you used this rifle for hunting you can cut 12 ounces off by switching to the plastic magazine and bottom magazine well. I happen to like the feel of the bottom metal magazine parts.
Anyone weigh the 24 inch barreled 10TR?
I just finished setting up this rifle about a week ago and had my 1st range session over the weekend. First I removed the EGW base which was torqued down pretty tight from the factory, swabbed the base screws and ring screws with denatured alcohol, leveled and mounted the scope, applied blue Loctite to all the screws, and timed the muzzle brake. The trigger needs to be lightened but I still managed .75" groups at 100 yds. This rifle definitely has a lot of potential!!!
Brasse - I was also using 168 gr PPU ammo and the chamber was very tight. At first it would not chamber but with a little muscle the rounds would feed. I can still feel some pressure on the bolt handle when chambering a round. To get on paper I used a few 147 gr rounds and did not have any issue chambering them.
My rifle has a gap between the bottom of the rear tang and the stock, it's about 1/16". I called Savage but they did not think this was a problem. I'm not going to be sloshing around in the mud with this rifle but I could see some debris finding its way in. Does anyone else have this gap?
Since I'm a lefty I was a little worried about the oversized bolt handle, but it is a joy to shoot especially with the brake. I also brought a 6.5 Swede with me and the Savage recoil was noticeably less than the 6.5 which is known for it's softness.
Here's a pic... http://www.flickr.com/photos/99194110@N04/9404281231/
The tang on a Savage traditionally should be free floated. You need that gap to keep the receiver from being stressed since there is no rear action screws under the tang as in some other brands. It is natural and normal. Please don't try to "fix" it.
What brake are you using?
Great day at range. Shooting some Hornady 168GR HPBT. Once zeroed in at 100 yards, switched to another target. First two shots in one hole. Shot the other two in the DBM, these also went into another one hole, touching the other one. Everything fit inside a penny.
Four (4) shot group. It was 98 degrees with wind gusting 5 to 12 MPG from the right. About .38 MOA
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...ps099355fe.jpg
Below is 3 shot group with 155 GR A-Max
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...ps777b0338.jpg
brasse: Whoa! Pretty darn impressive!
Looks like You've found what Savage likes! :-D
There is some debate on what is the best factory 308 round:
Hornady 168GR HPBT
Hornady 168GR A-Max
Federal Premium Gold 168 GR Sierra Match King
Federal Premium Gold 175 GR Sierra Match King
Black Hills 168 GR Sierra Match King
I am surprised that the recoil was not bad with the Hornady 168GR HPBT. I have a box of the 175 GR SMK and have coming several boxes of the Federal Premium Gold 168 GR Sierra Match King. Just hoping for a low pain shoulder day combined with low temps and low wind conditions.
Some 10TR love this gun shoots great i'm shooting Federal Premium Gold 168 GR Sierra Match Kings under moa at 100 from bipod. Everyone who has shot this 10tr wants one ahhhh envy I like it to funny!
Kelly
I look at the price all the time, $456 delivered. One of the best deals in my life.
I've done some tuning of cheek height, harris podloc, diopter correction and proper scope timing...
And after the brake installation right to the range :)
These are my best shots fired off my Savage yet - 200 metres (~219 yards), Sako 168grs Sierra HPBT :cool:
The two extra holes were added afterwards because of elevation turret loosening on 300 metres.
(I totally screwed my zero before finding out its the turret - so I needed to "find myself" again on this target to re-zero.) :baby:
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/9219/4zuu.jpg
To revive the thread...
I was initially quite confused about timing my scope:
When I installed scope measuring gaps under the scope cube, both reticle and clicking were significantly canted. I had to time the scope in the rings a LOT to get clicking vertical.
But then, I changed the original EGW non-canted base for Weaver 20MOA base I've read a lots of "great for the price".
To my surprise, having leveled both action and new base, putting scope+rings back on top - the scope was obviously canted to the opposite side.
After I timed scope in rings to vertical axis (now even the gaps under the scope cube are equal) I verfied on the range proper clicking.
This means that the original base was tightened VERY much to the side of the reciever, so I had some side offset of the scope.
My bad - I should check base level (and torque) first.
Anyway...
Today, I took the stock off and adjusted trigger to the lowest possible settings.
Haven't found any torque specs in the user manual, what torques do you use for tightening action in?
Found this - have anyone tried this method?
http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/
Thanks!
Has anybody had problems with the bolt rubbing on the left side of the safety? When I reload a round the bolt binds their, Is this normal?
Yes.Quote:
Has anybody had problems with the bolt rubbing on the left side of the safety?
No.Quote:
When I reload a round the bolt binds there, Is this normal?
I decided to troll the local gun shops today looking for year-end deals and one shop had a Black Friday ad on the counter that showed 20" 10TRs for...wait for it...$379.99.
I immediately asked if they had any, and the guy came back and said he had ONE left, a 24" 10TR, with the Black Friday ad pricing good through today. It didn't have the EGW rail and I didn't need another rifle (let alone a 308), but not being able to pass up a deal, it followed me home.
The guy said they had 30 before the sale, but "Nobody's beating down our door to buy a LE-only Savage". Once Savage discontinued their LE line, the shop offered them to the public at closeout prices.
I hate that I didn't see the sale flyer a month ago!!!
Editor's note:
In future, when you have a question that is different than the topic of the thread, please start your own new thread. Thank you .
I copied your old post into a new thread, you should get your answer there.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...e-308-magazine
IMG_20140131_141910_758[/IMG] Savage 10tr 24" barrel 308 cal
Did you pick this up in KY by chance???
http://i.imgur.com/5fY0HZd.jpg savage 10 T which is apparently exclusively sold at cabelas. BA boltknob, accustock, accutrigger, 24 inch heavy barrel, 20moa base already on there.
Same here. Brother got it for me for Christmas. With this weather, I havent even got to shoot it yet. Got my scope mounted (Redfield BattleZone), just waiting on the weather. Next week is looking very promising. Do you by chance know the OD of the barrel? Im looking to order a brake from JP, but Im in Chicago and dont have access to measure it. Thanks
reynolds7: The OD depends on the barrel lenght, but overall it's around 0.8":
20" has OD approximately 20.4mm (0.803").
24" version has OD 20.18mm (0.7945").
0.875 brake will be a little over barrel OD:
http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPTRE-5.58B.875
The .750 version should be shortened by a gunsmith to end up directly clocked and as close to barrel OD as possible.
That should be an "optimal" solution, I guess.
http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPTRE-5.58B.750