Well my new rifle I pulled the action to relieve the stock some and now that it is back in the bolt will not completely close.I must have bumped the bolt from full close when the action was out. What do I have to do now? **** my luck!
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Well my new rifle I pulled the action to relieve the stock some and now that it is back in the bolt will not completely close.I must have bumped the bolt from full close when the action was out. What do I have to do now? **** my luck!
try backing off your front action screw and see what happens
I tried that no luck. The bolt goes to horizontal and it will release the firing pin at this location when you pull the trigger, something is keeping the bolt from dropping all the way down.
Man you got that messed up big time...Hope you can fix it..What did you do to it when it was out?Quote:
Originally Posted by missed
I originally pulled the action to trim the stock, then decided to clean the action real good since i figured from the factory the oils they use are probably more for corrosion protection than anything else. Then I dropped the action back in the stock and just went snug tight on screws then went to put the bolt in and then ran into this. I had done this plenty of times on Remington700 actions and never had an issue. I figured there is a trick to get it back in now, but I'm stumped and really don't want anything tore up.
A long shot, but I took my bolt apart to find reasons for misfires. Put it back together, and had about same problem. The pin in slot was not positioned right. Just ahead of the bolt handle.
Dang my luck i did torque my scope base and the second screw from the from caused the issue, but the front screw broke off flush when I went to loosen it! So hopefully I will find an ez out small enough tomorrow or a left handed drill bit.
Don't buy those cheap aluminum bases with their chinese screws... Get a Warne steel base with real screws and blue loctite the base to the action as well as the base screws. Then, even if the screws were to fall out, (don't know how that would happen) the base will still stay on...
I wanted an egw 20 moa base but i can't find them and they are saying 12 weeks for one. I ended up with one of the cheap weaver ones, since it was the only thing I could find. I'm calling a couple more places tomorrow I will see what I can dig up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcliffe01
Thanks!!
IT's not "the cheap chinese screws" , quit tightening the screws like they were wheels on a semi.
I was looking for the "LIKE" button for this post!Quote:
Originally Posted by thirty06
LIKE LOL Yes for some reason people think they have to be sighter than a frog but tux I use finger nail polish and just snug them up
and never had one come loose.....
Gorilla tight: Tighten the screw until the threads start to smoke and then give the screw two more full turns.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...th-failure.gif
That front screw on mine was bottomed out that was the problem. I went to re torque since there were loose ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by thirty06
There is no doubt that many of the cheap aluminum scope rings and bases come with screws which are of poor quality. I learned my lesson after the first one I owned, and bought Warne ever since.
I definitely want a better base but I'm on the waiting game that's why I just got a cheap one. My problem was the screw was bottomed out in a blind hole and the head snapped off then I tried to take it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcliffe01
EGW's do come with really poor quality fasteners. I really like their bases, but don't use their screws.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcliffe01
That blind hole you refer to goes to the barrel.
Its why I use this BEFORE installing mount screws!Quote:
Originally Posted by thirty06
http://i44.tinypic.com/167rpdz.jpg
Billl
depth gauge?
I've used a depth gauge on blind holes too but i know not to mongo blind holes, when the screw stops, stop. But the lackey at the gun shop put the base and rings on to bore sight it since my bore site was broken. My first mistake!
Does anybody know the depth of that front hole about to start drilling again
And your from Texas! OMG!:yield:The weaver bases are fine. The screws are fine. I have never used loctite on a screw that small for good reason. The bases come with two short and two long screws, the short ones go to the front. Check you PMS for a deal on a 20moa EGW.
Yep! I will check them, the screws are the same length, extraction is not going well at the moment. What part of TX are you in?Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
By the sea. Last night I was having multiple 2x's looking at the waves crashing on the beach over a nice fire and watching Texas A&M woop up on OU.
Take you action back out of the stock and try to operate the bolt.
I removed the loctited steel base off my Remington 700 (along with the screws) when I sent it to get re-barreled at Mc Gowan. I had absolutely no problems with it. But then the Warne screws are probably grade 8.8 as opposed to dead mild steel from some other manufacturers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
That could be, I am like you, I think Warne is underated and use their rings almost exclusively. I do like the torx screws that you can get from EGW, for the life of me I can't understand why they are not in the base pkg rather than the hex key type.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcliffe01
Yeah got the screw out, then the broken tap! Hopefully I should just have to run the bottom tap and the disaster will be done!
Nothing is ever easy.
That is definitely true about todays projects!Quote:
Originally Posted by seanhagerty
Well finally have my rifle ready to shoot! And it will be dark before I can get to the range.