Sharp Shooter Supply Comp trigger install: Down the rabbit hole

Having read a couple of favorable reviews--and having never tried this trigger before--I decided to order one for my new 300 win mag 111 hunter. The hunter DOES NOT come with an accutrigger. All the advertising literature I read said it should be a drop-in job.

NOT!

If your rifle is made after 2004 (something I didn't see mentioned anywhere) you will need to file a pretty big notch in the stock trigger bracket--taking it "past the point of no return." After all this I still can't get the safety to engage, even with all the screws "full off" the safety bar jams against something in the new trigger housing. Oddly enough the SSS directions mention several instances of why this might be--the solution may be more grinding away at the trigger housing--which of course would totally take it out of any kind of warranty.

I'm not the smartest guy on the block and the directions are full of "if you bugger it it's your own dern fault" type of language. But I have successfully done 7 other trigger installs including Rifle Basix, Timney, RR, McCormick and JP triggers so I'm not a total beginner.

Excuse my whining--but I'm at a loss as to what to do here. Has anyone here installed this trigger on a (non accutrigger) late model hunter, and if so, how did you do it??

All I can say is if your not able to install the trigger maybe you need to send it off and have it installed. I have put in many of competition trigger in pre accutrigger guns, and it is a true drop in. the only thing ever needed was a bit of grinding to the inside of the trigger guarde to make a bit more clearance.

I thought it was in figure #2 maybe where they show some lines on the bracket denoting where you need to cut a clearance notch.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

I thought it was in figure #2 maybe where they show some lines on the bracket denoting where you need to cut a clearance notch.

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I already ground down the trigger bracket per the instructions and the new trigger fits in the bracket fine. The safety bar that rides underneath, once the trigger group is attached to the rifle is so tight it is riding up against the new trigger housing and cannot slide freely. The instructions mention this is a possibility and that one solution is to grind down the base of the trigger housing itself. All this grinding stuff I consider "invasive surgery."

My 111 hunter is not a "pre-accutrigger" rifle. it is a recently manufactured non accutrigger gun. The trigger bracket on my rifle is very similar but not identical to the post-2004 bracket pictured on the SSS web and instructions.

Anyways, I will call them Monday to find out what I can do. I leave at the end of this week for a 4 day bow-hunt so I may have to set this aside for a while.

check and make sure when you put the safety in the cross pin the detent slides on is not on top hope i said this right ,it goes through not over good luck

PM sent

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Originally Posted by JWW123

check and make sure when you put the safety in the cross pin the detent slides on is not on top hope i said this right ,it goes through not over good luck

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I know exactly what you mean. The problem is that there simply isn't enough play between the bottom of the trigger assembly and the trigger housing--once the stock bracket is re-attached to the receiver the safety bar cannot move.

Can you use a flat surface with sandpaper to mill down the dimension.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

Can you use a flat surface with sandpaper to mill down the dimension.

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Im pretty sure that filing down either the bottom of the trigger housing or the top of the safety bar would do the trick--but that would permanently alter the stock components and likely make them unusable with anything else should I change my mind about the trigger--something I like to avoid. But I'll call the folks at SSS tomorrow--I'm sure I'm not the first to run into this and hopefully they will steer me onto the path of eternal happiness and contentment. : )

Well, looks like the situation has gone from bad to worse--I tried calling SSS number and the phone recording says they are not accepting phone calls or voicemail messages. They only give their web address and snail-mail address.

I'm bailing on this trigger--it's never been fired and I will list it in the classified--PM with an offer, you know how much they cost new.

Need pics. Haven't done a 111 job but done several 110's. If you posted pics w might be able to help you out. Its a better trigger than most and worth the trouble to get it to work.

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Originally Posted by thermaler

Well, looks like the situation has gone from bad to worse--I tried calling SSS number and the phone recording says they are not accepting phone calls or voicemail messages. They only give their web address and snail-mail address.

I'm bailing on this trigger--it's never been fired and I will list it in the classified--PM with an offer, you know how much they cost new.

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Therm - If you email them requesting they call you back, they usually are pretty responsive. Let them know you have an installation issue with their product and I'm sure they will make every effort to contact you. In the mean time I would say put up some pictures of what you are looking at because as you know there are a lot of experienced guys willing to help around here. I've been frustrated with things before and sometimes it just takes the right person to make one simeple suggestion!

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Originally Posted by LoneWolf

Therm - If you email them requesting they call you back, they usually are pretty responsive. Let them know you have an installation issue with their product and I'm sure they will make every effort to contact you. In the mean time I would say put up some pictures of what you are looking at because as you know there are a lot of experienced guys willing to help around here. I've been frustrated with things before and sometimes it just takes the right person to make one simeple suggestion!

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Will do when I have the time--which is not right now since this process falls into the category of "multi-hour/day" install.

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Originally Posted by thermaler

Will do when I have the time--which is not right now since this process falls into the category of "multi-hour/day" install.

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I believe in this case the juice is worth the squeeze!

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Originally Posted by bodywerks

Need pics. Haven't done a 111 job but done several 110's. If you posted pics w might be able to help you out. Its a better trigger than most and worth the trouble to get it to work.

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Will do when I get back from from my hunt next week.

I am working off memory but the first time I installed an ss trigger, it was "bound up" and I figured out my problem (which might not be yours)
I was trying to install the back end or tang end of the new trigger in the frame that is left on rifle when trigger is removed and safety in place
Pin went in and looked good. It was very snug and did not work
The new trigger just sits on top of the frame (back/tang end of trigger)
When I put it in loose like that things were wonderful
Not sure if this will help but it can't hurt
Hope you get it worked out
It is a great trigger
Jack

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Originally Posted by JW

I am working off memory but the first time I installed an ss trigger, it was "bound up" and I figured out my problem (which might not be yours)
I was trying to install the back end or tang end of the new trigger in the frame that is left on rifle when trigger is removed and safety in place
Pin went in and looked good. It was very snug and did not work
The new trigger just sits on top of the frame (back/tang end of trigger)
When I put it in loose like that things were wonderful
Not sure if this will help but it can't hurt
Hope you get it worked out
It is a great trigger
Jack

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I kiss your feet JW...That did the trick! Eureka! (I suppose it doesn't make sense to put that in the instructions with an illustration).

PM me your address and preferred caliber and you have a box of ammo coming your way : )

PS: sorry to be a whiny-*** in front of the rest of you, as Gilda would say "Never Mind"
PSS: Mr Furious--feel free to kill this thread--except for the part JW mentions which is truly useful.

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Originally Posted by thermaler

I kiss your feet JW...That did the trick! Eureka! (I suppose it doesn't make sense to put that in the instructions with an illustration).

PM me your address and preferred caliber and you have a box of ammo coming your way : )

PS: sorry to be a whiny-*** in front of the rest of you, as Gilda would say "Never Mind"
PSS: Mr Furious--feel free to kill this thread--except for the part JW mentions which is truly useful.

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Bugger!!!! I would have done more research had I known there was a Box of ammo involved! lol!

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Originally Posted by LoneWolf

Bugger!!!! I would have done more research had I known there was a Box of ammo involved! lol!

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Well, for my next problem-solver that saves me days of waiting and effort I'll make a reward. : )

lol done deal!!!

Fantastic!
I am glad you got it worked out
I just wish I had replied sooner LOL
No need for a "reward" we are all here to help each other
That is what makes this forum so good
Just glad I could help and you got your trigger working, your going to enjoy it.
Jack

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Originally Posted by JW

Fantastic!
I am glad you got it worked out
I just wish I had replied sooner LOL
No need for a "reward" we are all here to help each other
That is what makes this forum so good
Just glad I could help and you got your trigger working, your going to enjoy it.
Jack

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Thanks so much--what a gentleman! In that case I can hope I can return the favor somehow. : )

JW, if you could get a couple of pictures up of what you are explaining, it would be very helpful :-) Thanks!.....Jim

Assuming I did this right--I think this is what he meant:

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps658fa6c4.jpg

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

JW, if you could get a couple of pictures up of what you are explaining, it would be very helpful :-) Thanks!.....Jim

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Please let me explain how I came upon this:
I am one that if it can be done wrong, I usually do it and then spend a lot of time trying to figure out what I did LOL
I really thought that I would be the only one that would install like this lol
The ss trigger is the best trigger that I own and I in no way think there is a problem with it ( I actually have 2 and planning on the 3rd)
The easiest way I can think of explaining this is:
the ss trigger module sets on top of the original trigger frame
What I am calling the frame is the part that is left on the action after you remove the factory trigger
If you try, you can put the module inside of the frame at the tang end and still be able to install the pin that holds the trigger in place
I think I had to work pretty hard to get it in the way described LOL
This locks up the safety due to not enough clearance creating the problems thermaler described
When the module is installed correctly the tang end of the module will be setting on top of the frame and actually be able to raise up and down ( rock) a little bit with pin installed
If I remember correctly there are actually two small tabs on the back of the module that are actually setting on the frame (tang end of module)
I hope this helps
I can post some pictures on this but it will have to be in a few days if needed

I was typing when you replied
That shows exactly what I was talking about
Thanks
for the help
Jack

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Originally Posted by thermaler

Assuming I did this right--I think this is what he meant:

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...ps658fa6c4.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by JW

I was typing when you replied
That shows exactly what I was talking about
Thanks
for the help
Jack

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Their instructions aren't exactly clear on this since they clearly say "install trigger inside factory frame" and if the safety binds they recommend putting a shim in between the trigger and frame. Instead of three pages of text this one picture would probably do the trick : )

Thanks JW and thermaler! That picture is worth a thousand words. I'm going to "man up" here and confess that you guys aren't the only ones that were confused about this process. That picture added to the SSS instructions would have made it a lot easier to understand. Thanks again :-) !....... Jim

I did not think of this when I first read your post as I thought I was the only one dumb enough to have done this ! It took me about 3 hours work to figure out that I had not ground enough away from the bracket and that the trigger goes on the outside. If you don't grind back enough it will not let the trigger fit on the outside.

Wow! I'm surprised you were able to jam the back of the trigger in between the bracket, but I'm glad you got it sorted out.
I'm not sure what kind if trigger pull weight you are looking to achieve, but do understand that the core means of adjusting trigger pull weight on the trigger is by adjusting the amount of sear engagement. The trigger return spring does very little to adjust weight. In fact, i tend to run the trigger return force about 75-90% maxed out(this will only account for about a half pound of pull weight). I then fine tune the pull weight by adjusting the amount of sear engagement (for me, a target shooter, engagement is minimal, like .004-.006"). This results in a 18-20 oz total pull and hardly any creep.

Yes--I know that. My first over-riding concern is to get a clean but reliable break and a safety setting that makes it nearly impossible for an AD. After that, the trigger pull adjustment is secondary in importance to me and anything in the 2-3 lb range is OK by me, especially since this isn't 2-stage. I prefer alot of sear engagement surface contact because I'm just that way. I give myself credit for the possibility of doing stupid things like dropping a rifle onto concrete or out of a stand.

Definitely ensure that the safety engagement is set properly. Its pretty easy. So long as you keep the safety on while carrying you'll have no worries about AD. Engaging about 1/2 the sear will give you the pull weight you're looking for, and still crisp.

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Originally Posted by bodywerks

Definitely ensure that the safety engagement is set properly. Its pretty easy. So long as you keep the safety on while carrying you'll have no worries about AD. Engaging about 1/2 the sear will give you the pull weight you're looking for, and still crisp.

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Already fully adjusted to where I like it and installed--as soon as the rest of my components are in and installed I look forward to posting sub-MOA groups here. : )

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Originally Posted by bodywerks

So long as you keep the safety on while carrying you'll have no worries about AD.

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Im not sure of that, at least on savage bolt rifles. The safety only blocks the trigger but does not keep the sear from slipping. The only true way to make sure your gun will not go off is not to have the bolt closed with a round in. I have been doing that for years, bolt dont close until I see the deer in front of me.

I do have the sss competition trigger and to be honest I have set it under 8 oz and still not have a discharge by banging the rifle hard. The Rifle Basix I was able to set really low and get it to discharge but my trigger scale only goes down to 8 oz so I might have gone past the trigger specifications.

Thermaler, glad to see you got it to work. I installed mine a month or two ago and like it.

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I give myself credit for the possibility of doing stupid things like dropping a rifle onto concrete or out of a stand.

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A sign of intelligence not stupidity.

Don't feel bad. I did the same thing a few years ago. But somewhere I saw a picture of an installed trigger and noticed the rear just rest on the bracket and not inside. I don't remember where I saw the picture. But I installed it like the picture and all was great. I wish I would have seen this thread earlier.

Dennis