Savage Target Series specs & tolerances?

[jinx-)]

I 'm trying to find any information on what Savage have for accuracy on their Target rifles. Do they have any sort of guarantee for target rifles to shoot as match/target rifles should or its just general 1.75" like on 11 model?

[82boy]

Do they have any sort of guarantee for target rifles to shoot as match/target rifles should or its just general 1.75" like on 11 model?


Nope, no guarantee
It will shoot the same as any similar factory Savage.
Most out of box Savage rifles will shoot 1/2 MOA.

[jinx-)]

I see... So if my target rifle shoots 1 - 1.5 MOA I just should take it, no point to contact Savage...

[Cover Dog]

I don't shoot factory ammo but I have NEVER had a Savage I could not get to shoot under .5MOA I don't know what ammo you are using in your mdl.11 but that should shoot under 1 MOA if you are able to do your part. I have shot groups with my target actions as small as .110 and most of mine shoot between .2 & .3" on a regular basis.

[jinx-)]

Its brand new Savage LRP, so far I had 80 rounds down tube, it only shoots good out of clean barrel, it builds up copper quickly, it takes more then an hour using KG-12 and nylon brush to get rid of embedded copper. So far I tried Sierra, Nosler and Lapua bullets, using RL-15, RL-17, RL-22, H-Varget and H-4831SC powders, also using Lapua and Remington brass, all brass neck turned and weighted all bullets weighted and sorted by ogive. From clean barrel first 3 shots not counting fouling shot, make one shot hole, after that it shoots 1 - 1.5 MOA.

[82boy]

To start,
With only 80 rounds the barrel is not brook in yet. About every Savage I have ever owned started shooting its best after 100 to 150 rounds down the tube.

Stop cleaning it, Every Factory Savage barrel I have ever seen shoots best dirty. They will not settle down until you get about about 20 rounds down the tube. Don't worry about the way the barrel coppers up. If you ever look at a factory Savage barrel with a bore scope you would see why, they have tons of chatter marks, but that is OK they shoot very well. I would worry more about carbon build up. The barrel doesn't have to be spotless to shoot good.

Your doing to much, you don't need to do all that your doing to your ammo to make them shoot good. You never mentioned your experience level, or equipment. What kind of rest are you using ? Are you using wind flags? Have you ever shot a rifle before? Have you tried different seating depths? Have your tried a different scope? (95% of all accuracy problems are scope related, just because it is new, or a brand name doesn't mean it is good.) Have you double checked the scope mounting points? (Many bases use screws that are too long, they bottom out against the barrel, and the base is not tight.)

Savage, (As with most manufactures.) can not and will not guarantee a gun to shoot a certain way. There is so many different variables that are not the gun, to guarantee. If you send the gun back to Savage, they will take it to there in door range, strap it down in a vise with a 4 power scope, at 100 yards, if the gun shoots 3 shots in a 1/2 inch they will call it good and send it back to you. That is their standard of accuracy.

How are you shooting a 1 -1.5 MOA target, lets put it into a more precise measurement. At what yardage, are you shooting at, and what does a 5 shot group measure? What weight of bullets and style are you shooting? Many VLD bullets do not shoot well at short yardages, but they excel out at farther yardages. How are you measuring these groups?

The gun has a ton of potential, but there is a lot of questions that need to be answered to figure out where the problem is at. With a good shooter, using proper equipment, and with a tuned load, the gun should shoot under 1/2 MOA all day long.

Most shooters shoot at 100 yards, well the gun is not designed for that type of shooting. The gun is called a 12 Long Range Precision because it has a fast rate of twist, and it is designed to shoot heavy VLD bullets long distance. (600-1000 yards.) It very well could produce great 100 yard groups, and that would be an added bonus.

[Slim Jim]

It sounds like your barrel may be a good candidate for firelapping. If you are shooting a 30 caliber it can be difficult sometimes to find the "Tubb" kits or anything similar. An alternative way is to purchase grinding compound in several very fine grades and using cast bullets, roll them in the various compounds. Shooting approx. 5-8 rounds for each compound starting with the most aggressive. Clean between each compound string. Use a starting load for the bullet with slow powders or another way would be to use pistol powder such as Red Dot or Unique and load with approx 10-11 grains. The rounds do not need to be fast to work. Your just looking for the bullet to exit the barrel. My description is overly simplified and googling "Firelapping" will get you more complete information to include the compound abrasive numbers most satisfactory and other loading advice. If you can find "David Tubbs Final Finish" product it greatly simplifies the procedure as it has complete instructions included. Good Luck.

Slim

[jinx-)]

Experience level: no problem to keep 5 shots 0.25"@ 100, 600 yards 2.8" - 3"
Using bipod and rear bag, shooting of bench, flags yes use them all the time.
Optics remove it from rifle which shoots 0.25".
This gun is not designed to shoot VLD or any 140 grain bullets, the chamber is cut using standard 260 reamer suited for 120 gr hunting bullets, seating 140 gr Bergers will push them way below datum line.

here are 300 yards 5 shots no wind cottony seeds from nearby trees where slowly moving through the air, I would say perfect condition.
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/787/p1050336.jpg

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/7976/p1050331f.jpg

Copper was embedded in the barrel when I shot those groups.

I did some fire lapping using KG-2 and this instructions http://www.cleenboreusa.com/kg/firelapping.asp
I used IMR Trail Boss for fire lapping rounds.

This barrel must be replaced, to shoot long range freebore must be extended also HS stock needs to be skin bedded.

I have Savage 111 model in 270 WIN it shoots 1/2 MOA no problem, and doesn't create copper fouling, so I think you are misled that copper is good for accuracy...
Problem with copper, it changes its state more quickly then steel, so you groups will suffer as soon as barrel warms up from the first shot.

[jinx-)]

Here I shot it at 100 yards, good groups from clean barrel.

http://img607.imageshack.us/i/hundredyard1.jpg

http://img813.imageshack.us/i/hundredyard2.jpg


http://img607.imageshack.us/i/hundredyard1.jpg/

http://img813.imageshack.us/i/hundredyard2.jpg/

[memilanuk]

So... in less than 80 rounds, you've tried three different brands of bullets, five different kinds of powders, and two different kinds of brass. And fire-lapped it. Thats an awful lot of variables to have tried in so few rounds.

I think you misinterpreted what I said about the chamber vs. what say, a 6.5-08 or .260 purpose built for long VLDs would have. People shoot 140gn bullets from mag-length loads in a .260 Rem every weekend of the year, all over the country. It's not optimal, and its why I opted for a 6.5 CM instead, but its definitely not going to stop you either. A fair number of tactical shooters do just exactly that with mag length ammo out of custom bolt guns and AR-10 based gas-guns.

Slow the heck down, quit ram/jamming around, stop assuming because you got some other rifle to shoot well that you automatically know how to shoot this one, and that everything in the world from the action dimensions to the recoil lug to the stock bedding to the chamber must be f-ed up on your one particular rifle. I'm not saying that it *isn't* the rifle, but that because you're jumping around like a fart in a skillet from one thing to the next so quickly you'd never know. Sometimes a particular gun doesn't respond the way we expect. Sometimes its the gun... but I can count the times thats been the case on one hand with several fingers left over. Usually it was me stumbling about doing something that made sense at the time but seemed really stupid later ::)

If you can find some locally, get some good factory match ammo (http://www.triadtactical.com/Black-Hills-New-260-Rem-139gr-Lapua-SECNAR-MATCH.html) or else go with a known-good handload - one known to work in multiple rifles. Two that come to mind are a 139 Scenar or S142MK over 38.0gn Varget, seated 0.020 off the lands, or 42-44gn of H4350 behind the same bullets, same seating depth. The Varget load may be a little slow, but it should stuff 'em right in there.

If you still can't get the thing to respond, call Savage Arms and get ahold of Effie Sullivan - hopefully she can help you out. Personally, if it were me, after you jumped the gun and fire-lapped the barrel - you own it, period, and they'd be well within their rights to say 'Not our problem anymore'. I think they (Savage) have been more than generous with people even so; you might not be on your own just yet. They ain't going to re-chamber the barrel with a longer throat, though. They most likely have the one chamber reamer, set for the one throat length.

[jinx-)]

There is no point in sending it to Savage, waste of money on shipping, you can defend Savage as long as you like, because in your mind they can't make crap, but everyone does, so just open your ears and listen. I have other rifles to shoot great, not just the Savage 111 I mentioned, I have Remington 700 varmint shoots bug-holes, I have Tikka T3 tactical great shooter, TC ICON PH, but I wanted target gun so I got this piece of CM metal. So it doesn't shoot so I will use its action and trigger, then rebuild it to work as Target Long Range Precision should. Right now its just very heavy mid range hunting stick or target rifle wannabe, targeted at customers who don't want spend 2 - 3 K on target rifle. When I was buying it I was aware on what I'm getting into, had bad experience with my previous Savage purchase, but I bought it anyway,so I just proved myself one more time it is crap, do you think I'll do it again??? Why Savage can't guarantee to shoot 0.5 or 1 MOA because in their policy 1.75" @100 is OK, having picture of nail driven by a bullet is impressive, but guarantee that their rifles can do that is no-no.

I think I'm done here, end of discussion.

About 139 - 140 grain bullets, if you seat them pass datum line it will create dangerous pressure, do it at your own risk. Chamber is not suited for heavy target bullets.

[memilanuk]

Good riddance.

[SMK Shoe]

Is it even possible to test that many variables in 80 rounds? usually the first hundred or two I test the bullets I think it will like and just enjoys shooting the new gun. First few types of loads I try to keep the same. I.E. same powder with same bullet only change charge weights or COAL. My last build of a 6.5X47 lapua would not shoot SMK 120's at all with varget ( about 1 1/2" groups) until it got up into the higher pressure's ( 2 grains under max) and then it turned into a smoker (nothing over 1/2"). just takes time and the right load. I've also had days where a proven load wouldn't group worth a darn and the next day shoot bugholes. Some days things just don't want to work out. But thanks for not buying savage actions anymore. I'm having a hard time finding another tgt action and less people buying them makes it easier for me to get it.

[jinx-)]

The action is great, trigger is good, love the pull, I'm not complaining about any of them, and I'm not giving up on barrel yet, I'll get more firelapping done, I'm getting lighter bullets, ordered 123 gr A-Max and Devcon plastic steel putty, I will get its action bedded to have equal pressure, I'll test it again when time permits, so this is ongoing project.

[cqh1111]

My best groups with my lrpv 223 were about .75". I then read about how the torque on the action screws affected accuracy. I tightened the front and middle screws to 30 in lbs. I then shot groups while adjusting the rear screw setting from 10 in lbs to 30 in lbs in 5 in lb increments. The groups from just adjusting the rear torque setting were from over 1" to .4".

Here is the article that I read;

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2011/02/tuning-savage-actions-using-action-screw-torque-settings/

[jinx-)]

Torque, done that, fron set to 35 inch/pound, rear to 30.

[Dennis]

I see... So if my target rifle shoots 1 - 1.5 MOA I just should take it, no point to contact Savage...

I have started off with 8" groups and produced sub MOA groups! I have over 8 savages producing sub MOA groups!

Gotta work a load for it.

Send it to me, I will make it happen!

[319]

Jinx, why do you come on here throwing a tantrum, saying the rifle must be junk, and you are just going to rebarrel it, then in the next post talk about how you are going to keep trying? It sounds like a frustrated 5 year old trying to put a toy train together. Some of these people are top notch shooters and have been around Savages for a very long time. Use the advice given, or end your headache and rebarrel the thing! My LRP was excellent again this morning with 123 Amax and RL19. I haven't gotten a group with test loads over .75" and nothing under. 4" but that is just me being the shooter! I put anther 18 rounds through it, and can find nothing to complain about.

[r29l20]

jinx, I know how frustrating it is when you can't pinpoint an accuracy problem. Believe it or not, they are trying to help you. Eliminating all possible causes first, is a must. Step back, take a deep breath refocus, and we will help you through it. :)

[jinx-)]

frustrating yes, feels like I wasted 1K for nothing... here is what max seating depth looks like in my chamber using 140 grain bullets, that's touching lands.

http://imageshack.us/m/851/7648/bulseatd.jpg

one bullet is 140 gr Nosler CC other 139 gr Lapua Scenar