SSK 50 trigger.

[KYODE]

Got my ssk50 frame about a week ago. I haven’t done anything with it yet OTHER than mess with the trigger.
My cousin has a lyman digital gauge.
It had a decent trigger out of the box @ just under 3lbs.

I adjusted the external screws and got it somewhere between 1lb and 1 1/2lb pull. Not too bad!….and easily done.

[BT]

Good to hear. I need to pick up mine and get it set up. :p

[bsekf]

Is the trigger on the SSK the same design as the Encore?

[J A XSP]

Is the trigger on the SSK the same design as the Encore?

I'm pretty sure it's a direct copy of the original EZ-Open Contender. Much better than the Encore, IMO. :)

[KYODE]

Nothing like encore. Copy of original contender.

[Normrep55]

Got my ssk50 frame about a week ago. I haven’t done anything with it yet OTHER than mess with the trigger.
My cousin has a lyman digital gauge.
It had a decent trigger out of the box @ just under 3lbs.

I adjusted the external screws and got it somewhere between 1lb and 1 1/2lb pull. Not too bad!….and easily done.








Can you describe the details of your adjustment process? I installed the Bic lighter spring in mine and got it to 2 lbs. If I can get there with just the screws alone, that would be a plus for the next frame. Also, did you smooth any internal parts? There used to be a Specialty Pistols pdf (still have it on my computer) on smoothing internal surfaces and installing a bic spring or removing a coil from the factory spring. Wondered if you ever tried that tutorial. I'm remembering you from the old days on the other site. Thanks for posting... Norm

[KYODE]

Ive used the bic lighter spring on older actions that would not adjust enough to satisfy me. That way you can save your original spring and not cut it up lol.

overtravel screw(in trigger guard behind trigger) ….. screw it in until it will not activate the trigger. Then back it out until it just does, then add a bit to insure repeatability.

sear adjustment screw(top of trigger shoe)……turn screw in as if tightening. Turn until it sets the hammer off or will not cock. Back out enough to have SAFE sear engagement AND satisfy your lb pull you like.

easier done than explained lol.
im no gunsmith nor do i pretend to be. I just do what works for me.

[Normrep55]

Ive used the bic lighter spring on older actions that would not adjust enough to satisfy me. That way you can save your original spring and not cut it up lol.

overtravel screw(in trigger guard behind trigger) ….. screw it in until it will not activate the trigger. Then back it out until it just does, then add a bit to insure repeatability.

sear adjustment screw(top of trigger shoe)……turn screw in as if tightening. Turn until it sets the hammer off or will not cock. Back out enough to have SAFE sear engagement AND satisfy your lb pull you like.

easier done than explained lol.
im no gunsmith nor do i pretend to be. I just do what works for me.

Thanks. That's just what I was looking for!

[wildcatter]

The two screws have nothing to do with pull wieght, the screw in the trigger is trigger take up adjustment, and the screw in the trigger guard is the over travel adjustment.

You need to hone the trigger parts, and address the trigger engagement spring to lighten the wieght of pull. The adjusting screws you refer to cannot affect wieght.

[KYODE]

Lol. You didn’t read what i typed I assume? :rolleyes:

it mysteriously went from 3lb to 1lb.

i have half a dozen(rough guess) contenders ive adjusted to suit myself over the yrs. Ive never honed any yet. Sear engagement screw or using a bic lighter spring for the trigger return spring( lforget what its called) has satisfied me every time.

[Mjshell]

i have half a dozen(rough guess) contenders ive adjusted to suit myself over the yrs. Ive never honed any yet. Sear engagement screw or using a bic lighter spring for the trigger return spring( lforget what its called) has satisfied me every time.


same procedure I’ve used many times. I have done some light stoning, but not necessary.
G2 trigger different story

[wildcatter]

LOL

Yes I did!

LOL I understand exactly what you said, and I also know for a fact! Those two screws can no way lighten the trigger pull! It can make it feel as though it did, but a scale will prove it cant,,,,, UNLESS, you have the overtravel screw slightly contacting the trigger before the sear is released! Physical fact.

If you find it did what you saying, the only way the true wieght of pull changed on a scale, is by something internally malfunctioning! In that case I would stop using it before you have a total failure of the firing system, and someone gets hurt! This would be a sign YOU HAVE A MALFUNCTIONING TRIGGER SYSTEM THAT SHOULD NOT BE USED! A light trigger is another thing, but one changing on its own with no adjustment to it is not safe!!! And again, those two screws cannot do that!!!!

Any gun smith can tell you those two screws cannot change the wieght of pull on this firearm. Get a scale, and learn to use it. But look and understand what they do, they stop movement, nothing more!

LOL

[wildcatter]

i have half a dozen(rough guess) contenders ive adjusted to suit myself over the yrs. Ive never honed any yet. Sear engagement screw or using a bic lighter spring for the trigger return spring( lforget what its called) has satisfied me every time.



same procedure I’ve used many times. I have done some light stoning, but not necessary.
G2 trigger different story


Yes this is what I'm trying to tell this clown! You have to adjust a sear engagement screw or a spring. That screw if adjusted to do what he is saying will not be safe, cock it put in a deep freeze or take it out when the weather gets below zero and it will fail! If temperature change allows the hammer to trip or the hammer not to cock it is unsafe! Any gunsmith worth his wieght will tell you that!

[KYODE]

Clown? Wth

i used a lyman digital gauge there mr genius. IF you read my post i said I adjusted BOTH screws. One of those is the sear engagement.
dont adjust yours i could care less what you do. But dont you sit there n call me a clown and basically a liar. I don’t have to prove anything to you. The triggers on all my contenders are reasonably nice for me. Send yours to your gunsmith LOL!

[HotRodAl]

I've owned Contenders since 1979, and during those years I have experimented with them with some good results and some not so good but what Mr. Kyle is saying is entirely true, Wow and you have the gall to call him a clown. I'd say you need to look into a mirror to really see one.

[wildcatter]

Clown? Wth

i used a lyman digital gauge there mr genius. IF you read my post i said I adjusted BOTH screws. One of those is the sear engagement.
dont adjust yours i could care less what you do. But dont you sit there n call me a clown and basically a liar. I don’t have to prove anything to you. The triggers on all my contenders are reasonably nice for me. Send yours to your gunsmith LOL!

Kyle you are playing a dangerous game! I know for some who are aware of what this is doing it can be done with extreme caution! I also know what I'm asking about with experiance! Over 45 years ago I discovered the crap your spreading, luckily no one got KILLED!

YOU ARE ROCKING ON THE VERY EDGE OF A TRIPPED SEAR!

My first couple trys doing this was not an issue, I was a man made gun smith and a pure genius, much like you! Bit then after cheating a real safe and reliable trigger jib, I set my Remington up, a 722 243 win. and once again proved that a proper trigger job was not needed and any idiot could do one as good as any gun smith. That ended one winter day when I got up early, about -5 degrees outside in fresh snow with nothing to do living in a trailer on the river bottom raising 3 boys the oldest about 5 and set out for a walk up the river and checkout a couple hollows for some sitting bunnies sunning themselves in the freezing new snow, where head shot at 50 to 100 yards were needed before they took off.

A morning with no shots, and about 4 hours latter back at the trailer, unloading the rifle before going inside was standard practice. So dropping the barrel towards the deck floor while reaching for the safety, as the 722 bolt cannot be opened with safety on, as I move to fire, yes it fired!

This is what happens when you add in normal variables that qualified gunsmiths have to take into consideration when the do a REAL TRIGGER JOB!

Since some hear didn't understand that, what you are doing when the wieght of pull changes, you are already starting to trip the sear, it is no longer safely engaged. A quarter turn more engagement is only a couple thousandths, but you are only engaged by a couple thousandths! SO, if temperatures change it will eventually no longer engage!

Yes the contender 1st generation as well as this new SSK-50 is no different! As I did this irresponsible dangerous procedure this morning to make sure physics had not change from reality to magic,,,,, and I'll be dand, after about 5 hours in my deep freeze, this dang trigger won't set? HMM, IMAGINE THAT, two or three trips to get it set, this is not what responsible firearms safety does!

Know for all those out there that can comprehend logic? Would you think this is responsible to setup and then sell in this condition, if not you have to realize it is a unsafe condition! If you would sell it in this condition, you need to reconsider what you call responsible!

A half turn will put the trigger sear in engaged condition, not 1/2 tripped, which is why the wieght is dropping, it is already breaking its engagement! That 1/2 turn gives thous couple thousandths to put the sear in full engagement, although barely!!! You cannot raise the wieght of pull beyond where it is now, even another full turn will not raise the wieght of pull any more, that is because the only way to lower the poundage on a safely engaged trigger is to
1) polish and smooth parts to reduce friction !
2) or use a weaker spring!

You can weaken a sring by shortening it, but the better option is to use a print of the same length with lighter wieght!

I'm sorry, but after 70 years doing so any things half azz and experiencing the results, my original statement holds, and I will not apologize! This is not safe, it's not responsible, and it was why the Contender got so much blame for having trigger issues decades ago, fortunately I understand that today. It is also why much the same remarks were made about the Remington triggers decades ago as well. P

[wildcatter]

I hope the above explanation keeps someone from injuring themselves or others. It is a pain at my age to text but hopefully some will now understand what they are doing, using a sear that is not fully engaged and already climbing off the sear in a less than fully engaged condition. But common sense should have you realizing if the wieght of pull is dropping, without changing the engagement spring, you are coming off a fully engaged, safe situation!

Sorry to ruffle feathers, but I'd rather keep some here from injuring themselves or others, or possibly killing someone, to allow a few to think they are geouses, and put others in danger!

That is what clowns do when they either don't know what and why this is happening, and try to tell others to do do it, without providing a caution and explaing the dangerous condition it is creating! Yes read above, I did prove it!

[HotRodAl]

Wilecatter you ever shoot pistol silhouette , hundreds of silhouette shooters have used Kyles method of tuning their Contenders without any issues you are describing.

[KYODE]

Wildcatter….i see what you are saying. I will refrain from explaining to others exactly what i do in adjustment. Ill just leave it at ….adjust your external screws to suit yourself. I havnt had any problems myself. A bic lighter spring does work well to lighten the trigger return though.

you should reconsider the apology for the clown comment though :peace:

[wildcatter]

Wilecatter you ever shoot pistol silhouette , hundreds of silhouette shooters have used Kyles method of tuning their Contenders without any issues you are describing.

Yes! Over 40 years ago, that's how I stretched the original frames, ya, more than one! That's also how I know what physics are in play that cause this lighter poundage! I was aware of that over 45 years ago!
As a mater of fact when I started the first year I shot with David Bradshaw, Elgin wasn't there and never shot with him, but neither would have condoned this on an open forum without explaining the hazards that go along with it! And yes I pm with David to this day, and can safely make that statent a fact!

He'll I've shot registered BR for over 40 years, but would never recamend taking a safety off a rifle on an open forum without explaining the dangers and the only way is inserting the bolt only after the gun is on a rest pointed down range. That would only be something a lunatic, or totally clueless individual would do!

Hence why I get so upset when things like this are posted on an open forum. Where thousands come for information, and have no clue what is relevant or what is actually being accomplished doing such a thing. I was a Range officer on a public range, and like most coming here, they have no business with any firearm set up this way, they are a danger to themselves, as well as those around them!

I think it is safe to say that over 90% of the people that read that have never shot in any type of match, let alone Handgun Silhouette!

Today in this time of unreasonable and self proclaiming authoritarianism it is even more important that some keep things in a responsible informative manner!

Far to many think this is as safe as being properly and responsibly done to assure safety for those that don't have a clue to what is actually being accomplished, just for safety sakes of those around them!

I also don't respond to things like this unless I have a great deal of hands on experiance and input from those ai surround myself across this country that do.

But thank you for asking! I do consider it a pertinent question!