Help on bolt for 110L

[wyodeacon]

My son has a LH Savage 110 .270 and he was having some problems with a dirty bolt. So...I looked on the net and found some videos of how to dissemble the bolt to clean it.
Everything went well until I was trying to put the rear baffle on behind the bolt head. This baffle has a roller guide and the bolt has a slot for it to go into. However, when I placed the rear baffle on with the "point" toward the bolt, it was upside down and the bolt would not go into the rifle. After trying to fix this for quite a while, I started to wonder if the roller on the baffle had to be in that slot, or if it could roll on the bolt. So, I did that, and everything looked good. The bolt went into the action and closed as it should.
However....now I find that the trigger does not "set" when the bolt is closed, so the rifle will not fire. It's as if the trigger is in the uncocked position.
Can anyone tell me what I have done wrong here? I tried to include a picture, but don't have a url of it.

[Dave Hoback]

Did you figure it out? I’m fairly certain of your problem, but wanted to see if you you found it on your own yet.

[wyodeacon]

Thanks for answering Dave. No, I haven't figured it out yet. The rear Baffle, if the small bearing has to line up with the groove in the bolt, will only go one of two ways. Either the "point on the baffle is toward the bolt head (but upside down) or it is toward the cocking pin.
helP!

[Dave Hoback]

Gotchya.. so your bolt should like the one below when reassembled. If it does, let me ask, did you do anything else on the rifle? I mean ANYTHING; like have anything else apart, or screws loosened & reinstalled? Did you ADJUST anything? I just want to make certain nothing is being left out.

Obviously, your Left Hand bolt bolt should like the mirror image of these, lol.

https://i.ibb.co/X801SC5/F8-C83-D8-A-D773-4-A20-98-F5-337-CE8-B790-DB.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

https://i.ibb.co/1M3P9dx/3-FBB90-BD-7824-41-E3-B35-C-166-E2-FB67-AA4.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

[Dave Hoback]

And just in case we aren’t cross talking, you are remembering to “Cock” the bolt by pushing the cocking piece pin(the round head), back up the ramp to the perch area, right? It helps to brace the pin against a wood edge(like a work bench), and push the bolt assembly to reset the firing pin before installing the bolt.

[Blue Avenger]

And just I case we aren’t cross talking, you are remembering to “Cock” the bolt by pushing the cocking piece pin(the round head), back up the ramp to the perch area, right? It helps to brace the pin against a wood edge(like a work bench), and push the bolt assembly to reset the firing pin before installing the bolt.

is it puts up a fight, put the screw in one turn and reset then finish tightening screw

[wyodeacon]

Gotchya.. so your bolt should like the one below when reassembled. If it does, let me ask, did you do anything else on the rifle? I mean ANYTHING; like have anything else apart, or screws loosened & reinstalled? Did you ADJUST anything? I just want to make certain nothing is being left out.

Obviously, your Left Hand bolt bolt should like the mirror image of these, lol.

Yes, the bolt looks similar except that it does not say "Savage" and it has a screw-head on the back rather than the allen bolt. the bolt body is also straight, rather than having the indent around the cocking pin.
No, I followed the diagrams faithfully. Nothing is left out.
BTW, I notice your bottom picture is showing a hole in the baffle on the flat side. If this is for the ball, it would fit mine. (but, this one was working as is)

https://i.ibb.co/X801SC5/F8-C83-D8-A-D773-4-A20-98-F5-337-CE8-B790-DB.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

https://i.ibb.co/1M3P9dx/3-FBB90-BD-7824-41-E3-B35-C-166-E2-FB67-AA4.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

"And just in case we aren’t cross talking, you are remembering to “Cock” the bolt by pushing the cocking piece pin(the round head), back up the ramp to the perch area, right? It helps to brace the pin against a wood edge(like a work bench), and push the bolt assembly to reset the firing pin before installing the bolt."

Yes, I am cocking it. What a pain that is. :)

[Dave Hoback]

Did you see my other questions? Have you done, taken apart/put back together or adjusted anything else. I mean anything?

Yup, bit of a pita at first. Once you get in a rhythm of doing it, it’s not bad.

[wyodeacon]

hi Dave. I am working on my AR15, so haven't been checking as often as I should. I'm sorry. I did see the other questions but forgot to answer. No, nothing else has been done.
I'll try to look more often. I know your time is important and I shouldn't make you wait.

[sharpshooter]

It's not cocking and the baffle is upside down because you have the bolt body assembled 180 degrees out of phase.

[Dave Hoback]

No worries brother. Not making me wait at all. My time valuable? Eh... my time’s not worth much anymore..maybe a buck, LOL. I’m disabled cripple so I’m kinda worthless anyway.

Yes, sharpshooter just answered what I was hoping you would find on your own. Without seeing your rifle or the assembled bolt, that was my suspension, based on your initial post. Assemble it like the pictures of the RH bolt I posted(mirror image being a LH bolt)

[wyodeacon]

Problem...I already thought of that. The trouble is if I turn the bolt body around, then the slot with the cocking pin will be on the wrong side. It will look exactly like the first picture, and the cocking pin must be on the left side in order to put the bolt in. The extractor does look like it's backwards, but it will only go in one way.

[wyodeacon]

I stand corrected!!! I tried it the way you said and it goes in and cocks. How dumb do I feel. I thought of this a long time ago, but just assumed the cocking pin had to be on the left. When I looked at where the bolt goes in, I can now see that it will go in either way. Also, the ejector is now on the correct side.
Thanks guys. I can't believe it was this simple. You are the best!
I was looking at a RH Bolt, and I make an assumption that the bolt would be mirror image also, This is not the case!

[Dave Hoback]

Don’t feel dumb man. How do you think any of us knew that’s what it was? “Been there, done that!” LOL:surprise:

You were caught up with working on your AR though. Otherwise you would have figured it out in the hints I was giving you. I know how it is working on, building my AR’s. And I put all my attention into them when I do! Same for my Model 10 though. Cool thing, you never do it again.;)

[wyodeacon]

You and Sharpshooter have my thanks.

[mnbogboy2]

Cocking the cocking pin on a corerofa tableorbenchis easiersaidthan done. For years I would start the bas with one or two threads then clock it and finish tighten the bas. If you grasp the bolt in a vise by the bolt head itself and then slide a 3/4" wrenchover it from the back side , you can easily clock it by turning thewrench. I have an adjustable crescent wrench with a much thicker jaw than a standard 3/4 open end wrench and it works much easier withutthewrenchslippingtothesideofthecockingpin also bolt assemblygoes much quicker if i useathread file andfilevan index line on the bolt head retaining pin to indicatethedirection of the firing pin hole. Pointing the index line parallel to the bolt body when installing the pin

[wyodeacon]

Mnbogboy2...Could you posibly show pictures? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

[Dave Hoback]

Wyodeacon, bogboy is simply saying putting the bolt in a vice, start the BAS (Bolt Assembly Screw) in just a turn or two, which makes it easier to cock the pin since there is only minimal preload. Then just finish tightening the screw with a BFW (Big Friggn’ WRENCH!) LOL.

My only contention is it puts added stress on the threads of the screw & bolt body, tightening the screw with that much tension. Using a stable edge of something made of wood to brace against, & push the bolt, indeed requires a bit of muscle memory. It’s still fairly easy and causes no stress I the threads. I’m doing it minus one arm/hand.. I mean, if my crippled behind can do it. :crutch::surprise:

[wyodeacon]

I am understanding just putting the screw in by a couple of threads. What I'm not getting is the wrench and how that works.

[Dave Hoback]

I’m not exactly sure about the wrench as your BAS accepts a 1/4” Allen wrench. I believe he means tightening the screw first, then using a 3/4” wrench somehow to reset the pin.. boghoy?

Different ways... ways each develop our own & like I said, muscle memory makes it a cinch. Try the way that makes sense to YOU my friend, and you will end up with your own technique in short order. That I guarantee partner;)