I picked up a 111 in 300 RUM, my first Savage. I can find almost no

[qtropwr]

info on this model. From what I see, it was a one year model. What happened? Is there an issue with this model or caliber?? I have seen a couple of stories about, other models that had failures of one kind or another, most seeming rather nebulous, or attributed to operator error. So just wondering at this moment

[Dave Hoback]

No problem. The RUM’s are a small group. Many have purchased, shot once and sold the rifles the next day. Don’t get me wrong.., they are absolutely AWESOME! But be prepared... especially if you’ve never fired one. The 300 RUM is an unforgiving, BONE jarring caliber. It’s also very expensive either way for ammo. The cheapest you’ll find Factory ammunition is $80-$90 per 20 rounds. Reloading is less expensive, but still not like so many other calibers. They use A LOT of powder, and even the brass is pretty expensive.

So that is their only downside. Too much recoil & expense unless your intention is ELR or BIG game at long range.

[qtropwr]

My plan is for long range target. Going to rebarrel with something a fair bit heavier as it has a standard hunter taper. I have read up on it, sounds like a real thumper. I have a 300 Win MAG on a 1917 and a couple others but the deal was hard to pass up. My initial thoughts were, it might not be up to the task, and was recalled or fazed out, due to weakness.

[Dave Hoback]

No, not at all. It’s the same 110 Action, barrel/barrel, bolt, etc., as any other 110. They are sound. The 300 RUM is similar to the WinMag, with a WHOLE LOT MORE thump to the shoulder. I think 300 WinMag is very stout. It’ll wake you up for sure. But the RUM’s are just teeth rattling! Honestly, not fun to me.

[efm77]

They weren't recalled that I'm aware of. I think they just didn't sell well so they didn't make them very long. I've always been intrigued by them and came close to buying one or building one several times. But I went down the 338 Lapua rabbit hole, and really don't have a need for the RUM. I've still thought about building one just for the sake of doing it, but it would have a brake on it for sure. You may want to consider one for yours as well. Is yours a small shank or large shank? I think most of them were controlled feed bolts too if I'm not mistaken.

[qtropwr]

Dont know shank size yet. I'm waiting on arrival, possibly tomorrow. It's an F9 serial number.

[Dave Hoback]

The RUM’s were originally offered in Small shank then changed to Large shank. Although, Savage never recalled the originals in Small shank. In case there is ever a question of strength.

Did you see pics of the one you are waiting for? It’s easy enough to tell Small or Large.

[qtropwr]

Yep, it's blued, with sporter wood stock. Ser # F959836. Top bolt release, internal mag. The barrel nut appears to be the same size as the receiver ring, if that means anything. Other than that hard to discern anything other details.

I doubt there will be many if any 50 rd, secessions. Full power 12 gauge slug gets old after 20 or so.

[Dave Hoback]

Well.. even the Super Magnum 3” 12ga slugs pale in comparison to a Sporter rifle in RUM. To me, it’s like the difference between 223 & 30-06. 50 round session?? Yikes. Heavy gun with a brake, no problem.

[efm77]

The outside diameter of the barrel nut is the same regardless of shank size. How you'll be able to tell is by the length of the nut, and most likely there will be a noticeable step down on the barrel where it comes out from under the nut. The large shank nuts are shorter than the small shank nuts.

[efm77]

This should help.

https://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?127-Savage-Barrel-Shank-Sizes

[qtropwr]

Thanks, I looked at that article, looks like I have the small shank. My barrel nut is the long one.

[qtropwr]

Well.. even the Super Magnum 3” 12ga slugs pale in comparison to a Sporter rifle in RUM. To me, it’s like the difference between 223 & 30-06. 50 round session?? Yikes. Heavy gun with a brake, no problem.


Yeah I figured it would be bad, but not that bad,lol. In any event a heavy barrel was on the list, probably a brake now as well. Stock was also going to be replaced. Bought it mostly for the action, wanted a step up from the 300WM, in bullet weight.

[qtropwr]

I have been looking for brass, as I have bullets, powder and primers from my 308, 30.06 and 300 WM. It is a bit spendy, but I have a had a few responses to feelers on other boards I'm on. I can roll it for less than the 5 to 6 $s a pop for factory stuff. Not going to be cheap in any event,for sure.

[efm77]

I hear ya. I've come close to buying one a few times just for the action and magazine length myself. So far, I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I keep telling myself that my 338's do all I need and then some lol. They're not cheap to load for either. Just loaded up a box for it last night.

[qtropwr]

You can always load down, but no amount of tinkering will make a .308 a 300 Weatherby.

[efm77]

You're right about that.

[cdherman]

You can always load down, but no amount of tinkering will make a .308 a 300 Weatherby.

Well, you can load down to a certain extent, but big magnums are famous for hang fires when loaded too far down. And a hang fire in a big gun may open your AC joint or tear your biceps off.

I load for my hunting buddy. He is great to have around, likes to dress out deer, capable of waking me at 5:00 am with his never ending enthusiasm.

Anyhow, he buys guns and expects me to load for them. Calls me his armorer. Has a relatively light 340 WBY. And a 338 RUM with a Suppressor. (very similar in terms of performance) 20 rounds through the WBY using a lead sled will still leave bruises. Its a dinosaur really. Absolutely drop dead gorgeous gun. Worthless cause its not that accurate, and working up loads is just bone shattering. The 338 RUM would feel the same, except its a well designed gun with a suppressor. AMAZING the difference. Of course, feeding the beasts is similarly expensive. Around 100 grains of powder per pop, so that 70 shots per Lb. And bullets are $1 a pop. We need not talk about brass.... Pulling the trigger is around $2 WITH RELOADS.

[BillW]

If you re barrel and want to sell the RUM barrel let me know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[yobuck]

I have been looking for brass, as I have bullets, powder and primers from my 308, 30.06 and 300 WM. It is a bit spendy, but I have a had a few responses to feelers on other boards I'm on. I can roll it for less than the 5 to 6 $s a pop for factory stuff. Not going to be cheap in any event,for sure.
What are your plans for using the gun?
For sure youve already pretty much covered it with the guns in 30 cal you already have.
Yes the Rum would add some distance you wont get with the Win Mag, but for L/R hunting you most likely wont ever need it.
Especially in PA due to the conditions encountered during the 2 week season.
If your goal is to simply shoot out to a mile or more then thats a different story, assuming you have a place you can do that.
But then if that is your intended goal, my advise would be to talk with some good people before you do about your gun / cartridge choice.
A call to someone like Kevin Cram at Montour Rifles in Danville Pa would be a good place to start and a good one to talk with.
And no, he is not a close personal friend, but then he is a very successful long range hunter with long range target shooting experience as well.
You could also contact Mark King, or Dave Bruno, or Bruce Baer. All are very experienced in building long range rifles, and all live in PA.
Phone calls with experienced people is a cheap way to gain valuable information.