Vintage 110 in 30-06 - Loud Safety

[ABL1111]

Been awhile. Quick question. Late 1950’s savage 110, 30-06 in mint condition - need input on safety. Works great but it is noisy, makes an audible click in an otherwise silent woods at the moment of truth.

Is this normal and or is there a way to silence this ?

Thx

* just shot a beautiful 7pt, Upstate NY whitetail with this gun. Love it !

[Dave Hoback]

Likely it can be remedied. But you need to be confident in disassembly/assembly & function of the trigger. There is a Safety Engagement Screw which can be adjusted, providing a sharper detent position. A slight turn of this screw should soften the engagement just enough to eliminate the loud click you hear.

[hawkeyesatx823]

I just recently got a vintage Savage 110E in .270, and love mine too.
Yes, the safety is quite loud, when you have it to your shoulder, and you’re easing it off, but if you do it slowly, the deer won’t notice a thing.
The safety usually gets quieter with use.

Hawkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211206/4d1b00a087f682153fc4fc4ee655fb0c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211206/a4f7340d01aacb16c268f5c45256a2cb.jpg

[Newtosavage]

After spending a LOT of time upgrading a vintage 110 from a 2 to 3 position safety, I would suggest you don't mess with it. Just do it slowly and press down on the safety mechanism as you move it. It will be quiet enough. Those safety springs are easily bent and not easily bent back to their original position. They get loose and sloppy real easy.

[PhilC]

My '57 110 only clicks when putting safety to on and is as quiet as my 110E when moving to off.

FWIW, the 110E has a completely different trigger group than pre-66 110s. Pre-66 trigger group here - https://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?252-gunsmithing_1&page=4

[ABL1111]

I’m not going to screw with it. Mine is loud going forward to fire. I did not want to risk a deer hearing it so as soon as I heard him, I slide the safety to fire. This is not my usual protocol which is to turn safety off when I’m sure I’m going to shoot. Wouldn’t want a smart old buck to get squirrely at the wrong moment.

Another question - when unloading, is there a way to decock firing pin other than dry firing ?

I try to follow that confusing protocol; safety in fire position, lift and close bolt, putting gun in ‘mid safety’, cycle bolt to remove ammo but then firing pin is firing position…. Any way around this ?

[Dave Hoback]

My safety is 100% SILENT! And smooth as silks... Yeah, see.. moving my index finder from the side of the Chassis to the trigger bow doesn’t make a sound! :becky:

Seriously though, I have mine adjusted so it slips with light detent. btw, Newtosavage.. What springs are you referring to that “bend easily” in your words? I work on many, many Savage triggers, and bent springs hasn’t been my experience. Being an older Savage, the only springs are the Sear spring, sear adjusting spring & trigger pull spring. After that, it was just the Sear spring & Bow style trigger spring. Then the Accutrigger with Sear, Trigger pull & safety blade springs. None have been prone to bending, IMO.

[JW]

Another question - when unloading, is there a way to decock firing pin other than dry firing ?

After rifle is unloaded try lifting the bolt, depress the trigger while bolt is still in up position, continue depressing the trigger and close the bolt slowly.


This works on newer models but I am not sure about your specific model.

[Newtosavage]

My safety is 100% SILENT! And smooth as silks... Yeah, see.. moving my index finder from the side of the Chassis to the trigger bow doesn’t make a sound! :becky:

Seriously though, I have mine adjusted so it slips with light detent. btw, Newtosavage.. What springs are you referring to that “bend easily” in your words? I work on many, many Savage triggers, and bent springs hasn’t been my experience. Being an older Savage, the only springs are the Sear spring, sear adjusting spring & trigger pull spring. After that, it was just the Sear spring & Bow style trigger spring. Then the Accutrigger with Sear, Trigger pull & safety blade springs. None have been prone to bending, IMO.

Not coil spring but rather the safety detent spring (tab) that slides over the bar to create the safety detents. According to the diagram, it's the safety detent spring (#3 in this diagram- https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/savstevspgfld/rifles-sav/110-series/110c ).

I tweaked mine to get the amount of tension I wanted in my safety but I wouldn't recommend it. It's kind of a pain even if you know what you're doing.

[Newtosavage]

This is what I've always done.


After rifle is unloaded try lifting the bolt, depress the trigger while bolt is still in up position, continue depressing the trigger and close the bolt slowly.


This works on newer models but I am not sure about your specific model.

[PhilC]

After rifle is unloaded try lifting the bolt, depress the trigger while bolt is still in up position, continue depressing the trigger and close the bolt slowly.


This works on newer models but I am not sure about your specific model.
It does but I simply dry fire and press on.

Dave please keep in mind we're discussing the pre-66 trigger which you said you'd never seen until I sent you mine to tune up a year or two ago. ;-)

ABL1111 - If you look at the link I previously posted you can see an exploded view of this trigger assembly. The only spring involved here is the blind spring behind the detent button. Theoretically, you could shorten the spring in hopes of reducing tension on detent as it crosses from SAFE to FIRE, but that also risks making it too light. You might check for any burrs on the ramps the detent slides over. Other than that, there's really not much else that can be done.

FWIW, mine makes a slight click when going to SAFE but not to FIRE.

[Dave Hoback]

Oh yeah...I knew it was the older trigger. I have the schematics here now. No, I hadn’t seen that one.... Until yours! :surprise:
But I done seen ‘em now! Only takes one.

Anyway, I guess one could have a problem. But he’ll guys... I’m doing this stuff with ONE FRIGGEN hand, for greif’s sake! And I don’t have a problem.

[PhilC]

No, I hadn’t seen that one.... Until yours! :surprise:
But I done seen ‘em now! Only takes one.
Smoooth and crisp thanks to you. :thumb:

[Dave Hoback]

Thank you Phil... I really appreciate that my friend. :smile-new:

[ABL1111]

Thx all. Not going to futz with safety. Love this gun. Just shot a beautiful 7 pt buck with it last weekend. When the woods is quiet, any metallic sound ain’t good. I’ll see if I can put more pressure down as I slide it. I’ll try the de-cocking method asap.

[PhilC]

Thx all. Not going to futz with safety. Love this gun. Just shot a beautiful 7 pt buck with it last weekend. When the woods is quiet, any metallic sound ain’t good. I’ll see if I can put more pressure down as I slide it. I’ll try the de-cocking method asap.
I read your other posts about this same rifle so wanted to share some additional and distinctive information.

What you have is a pre-66 Savage 110, and despite being a 110, the pre-66 versions are unique compared to post '66 rifles. Very little can be interchanged with post-66 110s (as you found out when trying to obtain a replacement firing pin and spring).

You had asked about year of manufacture in one of your other posts, the serial number won't tell the year, but the oval barrel stamp containing 2 digits and a letter will. Tell me what letter follows the 2 digits and I'll tell you what year your rifle was manufactured. :cool:

And just like your rifle, mine came from my dad. I never knew what I had until joining this forum almost 5yrs ago. Mine is special in a few other ways, it was manufactured in 1957, the same year I was born. Per forum member Mad Dog, who maintains a registry, mine is the oldest 110 in his records. This rifle has been in my family since late 1967 or early 1968 so I can account for all but 10yrs or so of its existence.

Cherish that fine rifle!

[Dave Hoback]

Hey Phil, did you happen to see the thread below, a newer member here picked up one of the CAST 110’s with integral scope bases & recoil lug? I read an article that was of the opinion NONE of these made it to the public. Pretty cool. Likely the most unique Savage one could find.

https://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?69774-Need-your-help

[mikebritton]

I too have an early 110L in .30-06, the rifle in my avitar.
As you may have found by now, the very early 110's share very little in common with the later models but that doesn't keep them from being great rifles.
Most of the barrel makers will install a barrel on your action, but they want the action in order to custom fit that barrel.
It isn't a simple "swapnshoot" like the later rifles.
Also, almost all of the custom stock makers will provide a stock for the early 110's
Don't give up your early model, it's a keeper!

[PhilC]

Hey Phil, did you happen to see the thread below, a newer member here picked up one of the CAST 110’s with integral scope bases & recoil lug? I read an article that was of the opinion NONE of these made it to the public. Pretty cool. Likely the most unique Savage one could find.

https://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?69774-Need-your-help
I did, pretty sure there was a post here a year or so ago about someone else with one. Believe Fred commented on the topic and that may be where the info came from that none were supposed to have made it to the public.

EDIT: There's a FAQ topic about the cast 110s - https://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?509-Cast-Savage-110-Actions-Yes-They-Do-Exist!


Don't give up your early model, it's a keeper!

They sure are Mike, those early 110s are nice shooters with smooth actions.

[J.Baker]

They sure are Mike, those early 110s are nice shooters with smooth actions.

Isn't it amazing that some 60 years later and with all the advancements that have been made in machining and manufacturing technology, the early 110's are far superior to the current stuff coming out of Savage. So much for progress. lol