PDA

View Full Version : bought a rifle 10 yrs ago



Pages : [1] 2

Shane
11-24-2010, 03:18 AM
10 Yrs ago I went to a store to purchase an Remington 30-06 for deer season any way that gun was sold out and was talked into a Savage 30-06 for the same price. I think I won on this deal. Please help me identify the rifle I purchased 10 years ago. A lot has happened in ten years and I don't remember (a wife, kid, 2 deployment to Iraq). I would like to customize this firearm. been searching the sight and most are newer models. Now on the barrel it says Model III or 111 Cal. 30-06. in small print it and closer to the chamber it says SP 11 and below that it says A 302. I'm not sure if its 111 or III. Please help. Looking to get a new stock possible a new barrel. I would also like an Accu trigger for it if possible.

Shane
11-24-2010, 04:46 AM
I have always wanted a rifle with a thumb stock is this feesable on a 30-06? Is it worth getting a thumbstock for a deer/field rifle. What about an accu-trigger is that worth it. It has never let me down. I just want a new rifle so instead of buying a new one why not modify the gun i already have. I have a budget of $500. I did this to my remington 870 and now have a cool tatical shotgun. the 30-06 really only comes out for 9 day gun deer season. Most of the rest of the year my target shooting is done with my AR-15 I custom built off a Smith & Wesson M&P optical. I also have my custom Smith and Wesson M&P 9mm Pro series in a 5" barrel. Part of the fun is taking existing equipment I have and rebuilding to what I want.

dolomite_supafly
11-24-2010, 05:57 AM
It is a Model 111 which is a long action. Good news is that the long action has changed very little. The bolt spacing is the same so all you would need to order is the stock you want, making sure it is for a long action.

Here is one place that has stocks:
http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-10/boyds-ross-thumbhole-laminated/Detail
and another:
http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

Welcome to the site, you have wondered onto the biggest knowledge base of everything Savage. You will find tons of info but to get more look at getting a subscription. You get access to the classifieds but more importantly access to all the technical articles. Either would be worth the $12 cost.

Glad to see you made it back and thank you for your service.

Dolomite

GaCop
11-24-2010, 08:30 AM
Should you decide to rebarrel to another caliber, your good to go with any cartridge with the standard .473" bolt head, ie, 25-06, 270, 280, 243, 260, 6mm Rem, 257, etc.

hailstone
11-24-2010, 09:17 AM
I've gone the thumb hole stock on hunting rifles and it works for me. Done both Remington 700's and Savages getting the stocks from Boyds in Mitchell SD a local company. I've bought stocks from Stockys but my two biggest complaints with that company is there always out of inventory and pricing. Personally can't bring myself too spend more on a stock that the rifle action itself. Bad enough spending the dollars on quality optics but you can't hit what you can't see.

ellobo
11-24-2010, 05:53 PM
For a pure hunting rifle stock, check out Boyds. Thier stocks are basicaly drop in's and cost is far less than others. They make a model called the JRS and a thumbhole that fit the 110 action internal staggered feed magazine like yours. That lets you spend on a good barrel from SSS, Pac-Nor, Kriegar, McGowen and such.
Good luck.
El Lobo

Shane
11-24-2010, 09:06 PM
Thanks for the input think im going with the solid walnut stock from http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet/the-10/boyds-ross-thumbhole-laminated/Detail
whats the best trigger for field useage? Also whats the advantage to having a fluted bolt?

dcloco
11-25-2010, 12:05 AM
I like a standard, factory 3 screw trigger in the field. You do NOT want a trigger less than 2.5 lbs in the field. Everybody has their opinion on this, but I cannot imagine having to face an accidental discharge because somebody wants to have a light trigger for hunting.

Fluting can lighten a barrel. Can also relieve the stress in a barrel...and can put stress in a barrel as well.

More than anything...usually looks good. I can take it or leave it....."coolness" factor I could care less....just want the rifle to shoot well.

Shane
11-25-2010, 12:15 AM
I have found out that you cant put an accu trigger on a none accu trigger gun :( any way think i will go with a timmeny trigger. from midway usa. Adams & Bennett Barrel Savage 110 Series 30-06 Springfield Ackley Improved Factory Contour 1 in 10" Twist 24" Chrome Moly Blue. This barrel worth it? or what barrel would you get for a 30-06 I usally shoot 180gr core-lockit. for deer season would my gun benifit from a heavy barrel?

bootsmcguire
11-25-2010, 01:33 AM
I built a 30-06 on a Stevens 200 CF Action earlier this year. That action should be basicly like yours except your is probably SF. I called Jim Briggs and Northland Shooting Supply (an advertiser here on the site) and ordered a NSS recoil lug, NSS 3 screw trigger, and a new Savage 30-06 barrel in SS and Magnum Contour. Has been a great shooter and I really like the added weight of the Mag taper rather than the tiny sporter. Helps with recoil and seems more stable in the hand, and didn't add enough weight to be a burden in the field. The AI chamber on the -06 will probably be lil benifit speed wise, but may help with brass life.

I would say give NSS a call and see if Jim has another 116 mag taper barrel. You'll thank me later ;D .

dcloco
11-25-2010, 01:34 AM
A & B barrels are like picking out of a box of chocolate. Sometimes you get your favorite...and sometimes you get double mint coconut with hazel dirt nuts! :)

Pay the $12 for membership on this site...you will save five times that in the first year.

Yes, you can get all of the advice and info for free, but the member classifieds is a VERY good place to visit.

Several of the site vendors offer prefit barrels in both factory Savage/Stevens and multiple aftermarket.

Personally, for a hunting rifle, I prefer the light varmint profile. Can still be carried and is a little thicker than a sporter.

Does your rifle have a 3 screw trigger on it already? If so, don't give up on it.

Shane
11-25-2010, 03:40 AM
heres the trigger, if i not supposed to give up on it can i adjust it?
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae251/Red_Monster/DSCF1102.jpg
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae251/Red_Monster/DSCF1105.jpg
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae251/Red_Monster/DSCF1107.jpg

mjbgalt
11-25-2010, 08:24 AM
yes. you see that screw where the wire spring comes down into? you can back that screw out a couple clicks. just make damn sure the safety still works correctly and the trigger can't be set off with it on safe.

hailstone
11-25-2010, 08:45 AM
That is the intermediate trigger between the old three screw and current single screw. This one has a little more adjustment with safety engagement than the current model. Neither this trigger or current trigger is comparable too the older three screw. Third screw is located at the sear engagement point and controls the depth of sear engagement.

slaroy
11-25-2010, 12:33 PM
I bought a 3 screw trigger kit from Northlander, a sponsor of the site, for about 35$ plus shipping, it is a great alternative to a more expensive trigger when you are using it in a hunting rifle.

It is easy to install and adjust.

-scott

Shane
11-26-2010, 08:17 AM
thanks adjusted that screw and now breaks lighter. Okay so this is the first bolt action i have done. okay now onto barrels. since i dont want to change calibers in hope someday i will have to oppurtiny to go elk hunting maybe someday the wisconsin herd will be big enough to allow a hunting season. I should go with a 24" with 1 in 10 twist which is 2" larger than stock. Still kind of confused on barrel contours and how it relates to weight gain. Most of my shots will be from a cold barrel as I live in wisconsin so heat really not an issue. For the field is it worth having a muzzle break to allow for faster followup shots, at least that what i understand its for?

Blue Avenger
11-26-2010, 11:42 AM
Still kind of confused on barrel contours and how it relates to weight gain. Most of my shots will be from a cold barrel as I live in wisconsin so heat really not an issue. For the field is it worth having a muzzle break to allow for faster followup shots, at least that what i understand its for?
just like people the bigger it is the more it weighs. the thinner it is, the less area it has to spread the heat so the temp goes up faster. there come a point where the barrel could start to "bend, warp, move, shift" and the bullet will be forced to travel a different pats. amount of powder being burnt, outside temp sun all play a part in this. just to throw out some guess numbers. thin barrels can move in 3-5 shots and heavy ones 10-20 shots before you have to let it cool some.

I have started with a 50 round drum magazine and put 40 rounds down an AK47 watching it start out as a 3" circle of bullet holes in the center of an 12"x24" and then as the barrel got hot crawl up to the right an off the paper at 50 yards. It was not red hot, but it burnt skin like it was close. then next day it was back to the center of the paper.

Shane
11-26-2010, 11:51 AM
I cant fathom shooting more than 10 shots in one given day? Even at the range to reaffirm zero usually just 3 shots. thinking going .750 weight barrel its a varmint weight. split the difference between sporter and heavy barrel. Since i gonna be spending about 300 is it at this time worth ordering one with a muzzle break?

dolomite_supafly
11-26-2010, 11:58 AM
I have also had heat related drift. Mine was in a 223 with a sporter barrel. After about 5 shots in pretty fast succession the final shot was over an inch to the left from the first shot fired. The gun was extremely accurate and has shot several .3's.

Dolomite

Blue Avenger
11-26-2010, 12:41 PM
at this time worth ordering one with a muzzle break?
what caliber? they make the gun sound louder to those around you. they save your shoulder from large caliber recoil.