.243 brass scarred and won't extract after firing??

[dave123k]

Can anyone help with this issue on new .243 Axis? It happened with both Hornady and Sierra Factory 95 grain ammo. You can cycle new unfired cartridges in and out no problem. As soon as you fire, it is nearly impossible to extract and we found this scarring in the exact same spot on the brass (can't get pic to upload) Thanks

[Ted_Feasel]

Can anyone help with this issue on new .243 Axis? It happened with both Hornady and Sierra Factory 95 grain ammo. You can cycle new unfired cartridges in and out no problem. As soon as you fire, it is nearly impossible to extract and we found this scarring in the exact same spot on the brass (can't get pic to upload) ThanksWithout seeing where the scar on the case is I'm going to guess (purely a guess) possibly a burr in the chamber? Once brass has fire formed, the burr is embedding into the brass. Does it make a difference if you let the spent case cool for say 30 seconds.. I'm guessing it doesnt.

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[dave123k]

It's a 3/8" long thin line in the case right at the base. No it doesn't make a difference to leave it in there before extracting... Thanks that's what I think also as far as a machining imperfection in the chamber but i can't seem to locate it with my finger or cotton ball. It's the only thing that makes sense though. I guess I will wait for Savage customer service to get back in the office in a few days and see what they think

[Ted_Feasel]

It's a 3/8" long thin line in the case right at the base. No it doesn't make a difference to leave it in there before extracting... Thanks that's what I think also as far as a machining imperfection in the chamber but i can't seem to locate it with my finger or cotton ball. It's the only thing that makes sense though. I guess I will wait for Savage customer service to get back in the office in a few days and see what they thinkLet us know what you find if you dont mind:)

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[Stumpkiller]

A gouge on the case has to be caused by something raised in the chamber; or behind it that the case is scraping along. If you chamber and extract without firing does a new case show a scratch?

[Robinhood]

Purchase the correct chamber brush for your cartridge and some scotch bright. If the Scotchbrite is 3M new, do something with it to break it down a little like getting it wet and scrubbing something. It needs to be flexible and worn but still able to remove small amounts of metal.

Remove the barreled action from the stock. Remove the bolt from the action. Wrap a small portion of the Scotchbrite into the chamber brush, screw it onto a short piece of segmented cleaning rod in a cordless drill. put some light oil or penetrate in the bore with the chamber brush. Spin the chamber brush on the low speed for 2 seconds pulling in and out. Flush the chamber meticulously. Blow it out and flush again. use a mop if you have one of those. Put it back together and test it. Repeat as necessary being very careful not to over do it.

You probably had sand in your chamber or on your brass when you fired it. On extraction you created your problem. Keep your rifle in the case when strong winds are gusting near a dusty/sandy range

[Ted_Feasel]

Purchase the correct chamber brush for your cartridge and some scotch bright. If the Scotchbrite is 3M new, do something with it to break it down a little like getting it wet and scrubbing something. It needs to be flexible and worn but still able to remove small amounts of metal.

Remove the barreled action from the stock. Remove the bolt from the action. Wrap a small portion of the Scotchbrite into the chamber brush, screw it onto a short piece of segmented cleaning rod in a cordless drill. put some light oil or penetrate in the bore with the chamber brush. Spin the chamber brush on the low speed for 2 seconds pulling in and out. Flush the chamber meticulously. Blow it out and flush again. use a mop if you have one of those. Put it back together and test it. Repeat as necessary being very careful not to over do it.

You probably had sand in your chamber or on your brass when you fired it. On extraction you created your problem. Keep your rifle in the case when strong winds are gusting near a dusty/sandy rangeI would do that on one out of warranty but I may be under the wrong impression this is a pretty new rifle, if so I'd probably let savage fix it.. I'd like to see a picture of the scar.. that would tell us alot

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[Robinhood]

What do you think Savage is going to do?

[Ted_Feasel]

What do you think Savage is going to do?I had one and chamber had a tiny burr, they just changed the barrel.. but who knows.. if its under warranty and he tries himself to fix it, it can and most likely will void the warranty.. that's all I'm getting at.. I agree your solution is the way to go about it, I would just make them fix it if it's under warranty just on the principle of it.. I build ALOT of rifles for people and all the companies I deal with in this industry usually bend over backwards to keep me happy:)

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[JoeJoe]

Can anyone help with this issue on new .243 Axis? It happened with both Hornady and Sierra Factory 95 grain ammo. You can cycle new unfired cartridges in and out no problem. As soon as you fire, it is nearly impossible to extract and we found this scarring in the exact same spot on the brass (can't get pic to upload) Thanks

Any chance you can remove the bolt and see well enough into the chamber to determine if there's a burr? I agree with some other comments, after you fire, your brass is expanding around whatever's in there and causing the sticky extraction. I'd think a gunsmith with a proper reamer could slowly and gently remove a burr and get you squared away pretty easily.

[dave123k]

Well I've tried 100 ways, I can't get a pic to upload. But, Thanks everyone. It is actually a little depression flaw in the chamber, causing the brass to swell in the shape of the little mark upon firing. It is less than 1 yr old, I will contact savage to see if they want to replace. Thanks again

[Ted_Feasel]

20191228_152646_resizedDang it, no pic still.. will it let you use imgur? I just recently learned to use it

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[Ted_Feasel]

Any chance you can remove the bolt and see well enough into the chamber to determine if there's a burr? I agree with some other comments, after you fire, your brass is expanding around whatever's in there and causing the sticky extraction. I'd think a gunsmith with a proper reamer could slowly and gently remove a burr and get you squared away pretty easily.If it's out of warranty and just a tiny burr, I'd take a very fine rat tail and knock it off or you could braze a T handel to a fired case, coat with embedded compound and hand turn the burr off

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[Ted_Feasel]

If it's out of warranty and just a tiny burr, I'd take a very fine rat tail and knock it off or you could braze a T handel to a fired case, coat with embedded compound and hand turn the burr off

Sent from my SM-N975U using TapatalkNon embedding ^^

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[Robinhood]

I don't know what to say. Lapping compound on a brass lapping plug to remove a sharp steel bur.

Dav123K read post number 6. It is tried and proven. Some want to help but have clearly never been here before.

https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.swncdn.com%2Fcms%2FCW%2FCou ples%2Fsingles%2F41376-manholdingheadinhands-distraught-despair-ThinkstockPhotos-494389911.1200w.tn.jpg&f=1&nofb=1

[Ted_Feasel]

I don't know what to say. Lapping compound on a brass lapping plug to remove a sharp steel bur.

Dav123K read post number 6. It is tried and proven. Some want to help but have clearly never been here before.

https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fmedia.swncdn.com%2Fcms%2FCW%2FCou ples%2Fsingles%2F41376-manholdingheadinhands-distraught-despair-ThinkstockPhotos-494389911.1200w.tn.jpg&f=1&nofb=1Not lapping compound , non embedding compond.. it's harder than brass but softer than steel

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[Robinhood]

Non embedding is technically lapping compound. It simply breaks down faster and does not get embedded into the harder metal. It does remove metal in ways that are not desirable. Things you learn lapping tapered couplings for high powered industrial machinery in the field and tapered plug valves. If you have never used that or a silicon carbide based compound like clover extensively you are probably not aware of the nuances that go along with lapping a tapered bore. We used 55 gallon drums of the non embedding stuff. All high spots are removed first then the lapping plug must blue to at least 90%. yada yada yada. Simply stated that is the wrong application for lapping compound.

How many chambers have you filed and lapped with a brass case? I have witnessed the method I suggested work dozens of times. I have seen the lapping compound in the chamber done. Once. The result was a gunsmith rechambering. Anyway. I enjoy your post and I am not looking for an argument. but I vehemently disagree with your suggestions in this case. Chive on.

[olddav]

Well I've tried 100 ways, I can't get a pic to upload. But, Thanks everyone. It is actually a little depression flaw in the chamber, causing the brass to swell in the shape of the little mark upon firing. It is less than 1 yr old, I will contact savage to see if they want to replace. Thanks again

I shot a 270 (once) with the same problem only worse. The casing looked like stucco after much effort extracting it. My guess is it was caused by rust (poor maintenance). I can’t that is what cause the depression in your chamber but it was the most likely cause in the 270 that I fired.
Hope it all works out.

[Ted_Feasel]

Non embedding is technically lapping compound. It simply breaks down faster and does not get embedded into the harder metal. It does remove metal in ways that are not desirable. Things you learn lapping tapered couplings for high powered industrial machinery in the field and tapered plug valves. If you have never used that or a silicon carbide based compound like clover extensively you are probably not aware of the nuances that go along with lapping a tapered bore. We used 55 gallon drums of the non embedding stuff. All high spots are removed first then the lapping plug must blue to at least 90%. yada yada yada. Simply stated that is the wrong application for lapping compound.

How many chambers have you filed and lapped with a brass case? I have witnessed the method I suggested work dozens of times. I have seen the lapping compound in the chamber done. Once. The result was a gunsmith rechambering. Anyway. I enjoy your post and I am not looking for an argument. but I vehemently disagree with your suggestions in this case. Chive on.I think I mentioned earlier that what you said was probably the best way to go about it and yes I have use very fine round files and compounds to knock of burrs and remove tooling Mark's etc with great results. If it's just a small burr and you carefully work only the burr you can likely remove that burr without damaging anything else. I technically would be considered a master machinist although I judge myself by what my fathers capabilities were and by those standards I do not consider myself a master. But put it this way, I have confidence in my skillsets that I would not be afraid to try your way or my way.. I would definitely agree the way you mentioned would probably be simplest but at this point it's all kind of a guessing game without seeing the actual problem.

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[Ted_Feasel]

I shot a 270 (once) with the same problem only worse. The casing looked like stucco after much effort extracting it. My guess is it was caused by rust (poor maintenance). I can’t that is what cause the depression in your chamber but it was the most likely cause in the 270 that I fired.
Hope it all works out.That sucks, a protrusion is almost always easier to deal with than a depression in a chamber. If my dad was still alive he would not be afraid to fill it, retemper it and touch it with a reamer but temper and forge is one thing I dont have a 100% confidence in myself yet.

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