Choosing the Right DBM Stock Bottom Metal Parts Tutorial

[jpdown]

Savage Arms has made a number of changes to bolt release location, factory stocks, trigger guards and bottom Drop Box Magazine (DBM) parts over the last few years. New Savage owners soon discover the factory synthetic stock, trigger guard and bottom parts found on entry level Savage models are cheap, flimsy and often limit accuracy potential. Soon thereafter the search begins for a replacement stock, a metal trigger guard, metal DBM frame assembly and metal magazine bottom cap. Savage Arms has made so many changes that owners, aftermarket stock makers and even Savage parts representatives are often confused about what parts work. Hopefully, the following information will be useful when upgrading from the cheap Savage synthetic stock and switching to metal bottom parts.

Several years ago Savage Arms started molding the DBM frame assembly (surround) into their factory synthetic stocks (ex. Model 11/111 Trophy Hunter). To cut cost, Savage also converted many models to the bottom bolt release and switched from metal trigger guards to the cheaper synthetic trigger guards and magazine bottom caps with the Axis DBM release. The Savage Hog Hunter is one of the few models left that still has the the top/side bolt release that many previous Savage owners prefer over the bottom bolt release when looking for a donor action to build on.

The most commonly asked question is what parts do I need to put my Savage SA or LA into a Savage CF, DBM stock with metal bottom parts? The pictures below show that it depends on whether you have a top/side bolt release CF action (ex. Hog Hunter) or a bottom bolt release action.

To fit most Savage walnut, laminated or composite aftermarket stocks with a top/side bolt release action and older style metal trigger guard, you will need a metal frame assembly (surround) with the thicker rear lip. If you have the newer bottom bolt release located in the front of the trigger guard, you will need the frame assembly with the thinner rear lip.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/PICT0048_zpsriz181t0.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/jpdown/media/PICT0048_zpsriz181t0.jpg.html)

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/PICT0050_zpslyujxblk.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/jpdown/media/PICT0050_zpslyujxblk.jpg.html)


The following chart put together by a forum member has serial numbers for various Savage models that where released with metal bottom parts. Plug a SN into the Partsfinder tab on the Savage Arms website and pull up the rifle’s schematics to place an online order for the metal trigger guard, metal DBM frame assembly and metal magazine bottom cap needed for your Savage SA or LA with top/side or bottom bolt release. The chart is also posted in the FAQ section.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/001_zps66f0a353.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/jpdown/media/001_zps66f0a353.jpg.html)

It may still require some minor inletting and bedding of aftermarket stocks to get the metal frame assembly and trigger guard to fit properly. If you have to modify the inlet, make sure the DBM lips will end up in the correct position to reliably feed cartridges before final pillar or epoxy bedding.

For example, the Boyd’s Savage Model 11, ProVarmint top/side bolt release, CF, DBM stock I recently purchased to replace the factory synthetic, blind magazine stock on a Savage Hog Hunter (top/side bolt release action) did require additional inletting and bedding. The picture below shows that the current Boyd's stock DBM inlet is too short for the older style top/side frame assembly front bridge to fit. I could have made the new style metal or synthetic bottom bolt release frame assembly work, but then I would have needed to make a shim to put under the front lip of the old style trigger guard to make it set flush with the bottom of the frame assembly and stock.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/PICT0053_zpsq1iwjz7w.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/jpdown/media/PICT0053_zpsq1iwjz7w.jpg.html)

[Twinsen]

You might want to increase the size of the text in your images. I can't read it.

Is the bottom one the tupperware Axis style? I bought a Trophy Hunter in 223 and the bottom metal is pathetic. You could put it in the palm of your hand and crumble it up. Getting the magazine out and back in the firearm can take over a minute. It does function as an internal box though. A bad one, but better than trying to remove it and get it to lock back in place.

I do not know why Savage went to the bottom bolt release, the smooth barrel nut, the Axis DBM, 10rd plastic junk mag, or put a drop in the comb of the Accustock. They need to hire a guy with a rolled up newspaper to run around their engineers and smack them in the nose. "No! No! Bad engineer! Bad! No treats for you!"

[rbp75503]

Great job! Should be a sticky or in the FAQ.

[clintsrv]

Valuable information here.
Would make a nice Sticky with all the serial numbers and part numbers.

[foxx]

Yep!

[J.Baker]

Any chance you could make the text bigger on the photo's so it's a little easier to read? Also, I would like to add this to the FAQ's section of the website with your permission.

[jpdown]

Jim,

I made revisions to the photos making text larger. Please add to FAQ's section. Thanks.

[J.Baker]

Original post has been added to the Savage FAQ's (http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?123-savage-faq-s) section of the website so it will be easy to find in the future.

[kwood94xj]

Any chance someone with the different frame Assembly's could post the magwell dimensions? Looks like the axis style is the same size opening. The tinkerer in me is thinking you could drill the plastic frame and install a lever to make the standard mags work.

[foxx]

THe mag well dimensions are the same. THat's not the issue. The issue would be whether the plastic frame would be strong enough to do what you're saying. I don't think so. Besides that, there are other differences that I really don't think you can overcome.

The metal frame and it's sprung lever is only about $75 more than the plastic Axis version. $75 is $75, I know, but I really think you gotta go with the factory all metal version to make those more traditional mags work.

[jpdown]

+1. As foxx said, go with the metal DBM frame assembly. I would not recommend the plastic frame assembly unless you are trying to shave some weight off a hunting rifle that you plan to be packing around a lot. I have found that even with a metal trigger guard, the plastic frame assembly will allow the the rear action screw to loose overtime resulting in unexplained fliers. The metal frame assembly also works with several aftermarket magazines, like the single shot "Fred Sled", Dark Eagle 10 RD magazine and Savage 10 RD magazine that won't work in the Axis style frame assembly.

[kwood94xj]

I currently run a machine shop specializing in composite machining so modification is still a possibility . If the standard catch was made to work why would the aftermarket mags not work? $75 is $75 plus I would still also be buying new mags at $40 each. so that $75 saved is 2 additional mags. I am married and Firearms are not a big priority on my wife's list of things I should be spending our money on.

[foxx]

I dont think you will get the std mags or aftermarket mags to work. They require more strength from the sprung latch and frame than what the plastic ones offer. If you held both frames in your hands and actually felt the amount of tension on that spring you would likely agree.

Dont want to discourage tinkerring, but in this case, if you're doing it to save money, i think you're wasting money. If you are doing it just to be creative, innovative, curious, "thinking outside of the box kinda thing", go for it.

[kwood94xj]

You may be very right I have not held one of the metal ones to feel the spring tension on it. I may go to the local gun shop and check it out. I'm more for the "thinking outside of the box kinda thing" than saving the money. As a personal rule I do not spend on things I can make myself. It really gives a good sense of accomplishment to the task. Thank you guys for the input.

[tper75296]

JP ...

Absolutely fantastic job! Thanks for taking the time and effort. I can see this a bible reference for a long time to come.

One additional note: you mentioned prominently the M11/111 Trophy Hunter XP conversion, but did not reference in the list.

I checked my list of parts recently ordered for my (finally complete) Boyd's walnut stock with high gloss finish (I left out the white lines pacers, i.e., "white-walls" ) for my M11 TH XP SA (my odyssey chronicled elsewhere under "After Market Stocks"), gotten from a link to a guy doing exactly the same conversion as I. So reading from the invoice, I see the frame number listed the same as Model 10PC.

I checked the Part Finder # and all the relevant parts mentioned for the M10PC match the parts I derived for the M11 TH XP with a wood stock, from a blog link for a guy doing exactly the same thing with exactly the same rifle/caliber ... go figure. All the parts I ordered fit perfectly with no shimming or other adjustment. Though I have to add, # 107419 (washers) were never listed anywhere else I found, so I am going to order them as well:

106705 Frame Assy, Short Action NBR (DBM)
107217 Trigger Guard Assy Matte RI (? whatever RI is)
106245 Mag Bottom Short Action (DBM)
(107419) Front/Rear Trigger Guard Screw Washers

Rear/Front torque on screws, without the washers yet (20-21in#/23-24in#); just level the rear trigger guard with the screw there (no torque!)

This should help your definitive reference by just one more point.

Thanks again for you effort!

[Inebriated]

Thanks for this! Converting my slightly out-of-spec Trophy Hunter bottom "metal" to stainless.

[bunyan_0341]

nice

[KAIFS]

OK, I must be dumb... What parts do I need to replace all plastic bottom on a j656520 (111 LadyHunter LA, uses Axis mags, Bottom bolt release) with something all metal? What serial number on the chart do I model after? Thank you.

[foxx]

^^^^ I don't think the chart has what you want. I would start by calling Savage Customer Service (they are closed for the holidays until after Jan 4th). Give them your S/N and tell them you want the all metal bottom frame and magazine for to replace the plastic parts. I think the parts you need are included on the FCNS long action models, it might help to tell them so. It will be about $170 for the frame, magazine and trigger guard.

[Inebriated]

Got my stainless frame, magazine, and washers today. Love it. I had problems torquing the action screws with the polymer kit, and the magazine had enough vertical play to affect feeding. The steel bottom metal let me torque it consistently, and the magazine fits much better. Side benefit, the steel added a bit of rigidity to the stock where the polymer didn't. Don't know why I waited, to be honest.

111 .30-06 Trophy Hunter, used parts from g901339.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1629/24760733385_99fdbc9d6b.jpg (https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1629/24760733385_a26a59ae37_o.jpg)


OK, I must be dumb... What parts do I need to replace all plastic bottom on a j656520 (111 LadyHunter LA, uses Axis mags, Bottom bolt release) with something all metal? What serial number on the chart do I model after? Thank you.
I know this is about a month old, but you'd use g901331.

That one is matte, and for long action and bottom-release. You need the trigger guard, action screw washers, complete magazine frame, and the magazine floor plate. Both yours and the g901331 show a spacer that sits between the frame and trigger guard, so I would assume you'd use what you've already got there.