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CCass
05-17-2015, 10:14 PM
Please help. I am in the process of building a 280AI and my reassembled action takes more effort to operate than it takes bill to face Hillary every evening... I'm totally aware/familiar with the "heavy bolt lift" stigma associated with Savages, at this point I'd welcome one, but this action is so stiff I need a cheater bar on the bolt handle to cock it.

Here is what I'm working with.
-older style flat back non-accutrigger 110 receiver
-PTG bolt
-PTG bolt head
-tactical bolt handle
-firing pin protrusion set to .037
-timney trigger
-polished pin and ramp
- I had the stripped action Cerakoted by Dynamic Finshes (don't recommend these guys).

I am beyond frustrated with this action, as I've spent the better part of a year gathering all the parts to build this rifle. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

devildogandboy
05-17-2015, 10:33 PM
if it's mounted in a stock, loosen the front action screw and see it that helps, maybe action screw is binding against the bolt lug.

Bruce

pepper savage 111
05-17-2015, 11:39 PM
Is it headspaced correctly? (For the AI)

short round
05-17-2015, 11:53 PM
Had PTG bolt head on Savage bolt body with heavy open & closing, had zero clearance between receiver & rear shroud with bolt closed, ground shroud a little at a time till I had 0.005" clearance between shroud & receiver & everything is good.

J.Baker
05-18-2015, 12:56 AM
Probably the PTG parts. Put in the factory bolt body and bolt head and see if the problem persists - I'm betting it won't.

Tom Thomson
05-18-2015, 04:20 AM
Ccass
Is the effort the same with and without a cartridge?
tommyt

CCass
05-18-2015, 07:29 AM
Can't thank you enough for all the replies and help!'

CCass
05-18-2015, 07:33 AM
Hit post before I was done, **** phone... It is not mounted to the stock yet and I haven't attempted to mount the barrel. I wanted to get the action operating in a manner in which I'm comfortable with before moving on to mounting the barrel.

CCass
05-18-2015, 08:57 AM
What method did you use to achieve the removal of material?

BillPa
05-18-2015, 11:22 AM
Can't thank you enough for all the replies and help!'

Do as Jim suggested, install original bolt assembly and try it.

Bill

short round
05-18-2015, 11:43 AM
If your asking about the shroud. Used sharping stone about 2'' x 6'', can be done with flat surface and 80 grit sand paper. Can also check to see if this is the problem by loosing the the bolt action screw a tad & working action

p-c-j
05-18-2015, 12:00 PM
What was all Cerakoted ,is that creating any clearance problems?

CCass
05-18-2015, 02:05 PM
Do as Jim suggested, install original bolt assembly and try it.

Bill

Thank you Jim and Bill, I probably should have done that before losing my mind looking for the problem.


If your asking about the shroud. Used sharping stone about 2'' x 6'', can be done with flat surface and 80 grit sand paper. Can also check to see if this is the problem by loosing the the bolt action screw a tad & working action

Short round,

Good idea using a sharpening stone, I have several, with various grits, to choose from. Before I get to removing any material I am going to try out the old parts and then do like you said and back out the BAS a couple turns. Did you lap your lugs after you modified the PTG bolt head?

PCJ,

The Cerakote doesn't seem to be causing any clearance issues. After doing some research, and based on the responses above I'm betting it is the PTG bolt head.

Thanks again to all! I'll post an update this evening once I get home and tinker a bit this evening.

CCass
05-18-2015, 09:26 PM
Well back to the drawing board...

First, I kept the bolt set up with the PTG parts and backed out the BAS a couple turns - no improvement. Second I used the original bolt head and the PTG bolt - no improvement. Third, I backed out the BAS a couple turns with the same setup and test 2 - no improvement. Last I used all the original bolt parts - slight improvement.

My BAS is the older style with the slotted back and integral cocking sleeve, it seems a bit "stiff" when screwing it in. Is it worth replacing with new?

Robinhood
05-18-2015, 10:22 PM
Change the location of the wave washer.

458MinMag
05-18-2015, 10:47 PM
If you have a scope base mounted, try backing out or removing the second screw from the front. This screw can contact the locking lugs if too long.

willyg09
05-18-2015, 11:47 PM
My bolt was really stiff new and i put a dap of lapping compound on the lugs and worked it 100 times or so and thoroughly cleaned and oiled well and it helped significantly but i still wasnt pleased so i ended up buying the glades armory tactical bolt handle and it made all the difference in the world. It is now one of the lightest out of all my rifles.
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo200/wgoglas1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150518_223104_zpsvr2mgtxh.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/wgoglas1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150518_223104_zpsvr2mgtxh.jpg.html)

CCass
05-19-2015, 02:33 AM
458,
Unfortunately the scope isn't mounted yet.

Willy,
I thought about using some lapping compound, but I am afraid there is something else going on that I should address first. Ironically enough I have that exact bolt handle.

sixonetonoffun
05-19-2015, 08:20 AM
After all the money and time invested here it would probably be worth sending it to Fred. It is possible the action was tweaked during its lifetime from disassembly ect... there are others but I have never heard a negative review of an action he has T&T'd. Also adds value to have had it reworked by the best.

CCass
05-19-2015, 10:44 AM
Thanks Six, I think that is my next step. I hate to put even more money into this build, but at this point I've already invested so much that if hate to end up with something I'm unhappy with.