first pillar bedding job need help!

[yotehtr1]

I have an old savage 110 that I would like to pillar and glass bed but I've got a few questions on starting. It is a wood stocked gun, the factory walnut or birch or whatever it's actually made of. First is there any good write up or video on a step by step specifically for a savage? I've done lots of reading and have a decent idea of what I'm looking at or at least I think I do but can't find any pics of it actually being done on a savage or how specifically the pillars are installed. I am also curious as to what pillars I should buy. What would be my best bet? I see stockys sells some and I've also seen a kit on ebay but I don't know if either are the way to go. Do these pillar kits come with a escutcheon for the front screw or do you even use one? My model 12 is factory pillar bedded and doesn't have one but I've seen a lot of pictures that show them installed. I was gonna pillar bed first and then bed the action just because I think it'd be easier for me to keep straight but if I'm wrong please let me know. For bedding the action and for installing the pillars as well I'm sure I was gonna go with devcon plastic steel putty 10110. Any big negatives on using that? Any other tips would be a huge help. I'm actually pretty handy but don't wanna do something stupid. It is a rifle I picked up real cheap so thought it'd be a good one to get my feet wet on. Thanks

[olddav]

The last one I pillar bedded I installed the pillars and bedding at the same time. You can use tape around the barrel to center it into the channel and tape again for the tang. In both cases the tape will center the action in the stock and set the clearance need, (to float the barrel and tang). This is incomplete info but it might help clear up one question.

[yotehtr1]

The last one I pillar bedded I installed the pillars and bedding at the same time. You can use tape around the barrel to center it into the channel and tape again for the tang. In both cases the tape will center the action in the stock and set the clearance need, (to float the barrel and tang). This is incomplete info but it might help clear up one question.

Thank you I appreciate it. What pillars did you use?

[olddav]

They were home made from some aluminum (round bar), the store bought ones are a whole lot easier to work with and they come precut to length. As for which one is best, I can't tell you but my guess is which ever one you select will work just fine.

[yotehtr1]

Thanks for the help!

[CAPTBEACH]

SAME BOAT YOUR IN...

Just got these in...I had been searching for a quality pillar material to use on my rifle build...searched high and low...didnt want to use lamp rod as I am sending the stock out to Jeff at CDI to be inlet'd for DBM so I wanted aluminum to ease the load on his tooling, brass or bronze is lots harder than aluminum...last week I stumbled onto ERNIETHEGUNSMITH.COM I bought enough 1/2" OD x .252" ID x 4" and 3/8" OD x .252" ID x 4" rod stock to do 5-6 rifles for $19.85 shipped...pillar stock came today and it is QUALITY material...

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/c42_p1.html

http://erniethegunsmith.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/webassets/AluStockForCustomInstall.jpg

[LongRange]

Id use devcon 10110 not glass if I was you...much stronger and better product.


http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyid=101

[yotehtr1]

SAME BOAT YOUR IN...

Just got these in...I had been searching for a quality pillar material to use on my rifle build...searched high and low...didnt want to use lamp rod as I am sending the stock out to Jeff at CDI to be inlet'd for DBM so I wanted aluminum to ease the load on his tooling, brass or bronze is lots harder than aluminum...last week I stumbled onto ERNIETHEGUNSMITH.COM I bought enough 1/2" OD x .252" ID x 4" and 3/8" OD x .252" ID x 4" rod stock to do 5-6 rifles for $19.85 shipped...pillar stock came today and it is QUALITY material...

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/c42_p1.html

http://erniethegunsmith.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/webassets/AluStockForCustomInstall.jpg

that is really nice material! cheap too. thanks. im sure this is gonna look like a stupid question but what
does the head of your action screw rest on since its tubing theres no smaller diameter shoulder for the screw head to hit or is the i.d. of the tubing still small enough the bolt head rests on it? Also do you actually run this tubing down to where its flush with the outside of the stock on the front action screw or do you leave it recessed into the stock a little bit? thanks

[yotehtr1]

Id use devcon 10110 not glass if I was you...much stronger and better product.


http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyid=101


Thats what I was looking at earlier in a bedding write up. sounds like nice stuff. you've had good luck with it? will it work well for epoxying in the pillars as well as bedding the action?

[foxx]

Devcon 10110 is really good stuff. Very hard. Good finish. Good peanut butter-like consistency when applying. Stays put. Look around on the net for your best price. It can be had for 1/2 what most places charge. Works well for the pillars and the action. It is not the best material for repairing stocks, but I really believe it might be the best for bedding actions.

Some tips: If you install the pillars first (I do) get some carriage bolts from the hardware store and cut the head off and use in place of the action screws. Screw them in place and then, then slip the action into the bedding with the screws acting as a guide. The idea here is to NOT use the action screws as a means to draw the action into the stock and hold it as the epoxy cures. It is better to use these "guide screws" and use tape to hold the action into the bedding so there is less stress imposed as it sets.

Also, there are many options for release agent, I like Brownells Accra Release. It sprays on, releases with no effort and is easy to apply without missing any spots.

Use plumbers putty for your dams and plugging holes etc. Doesn't dry out like play dough or other stuff. Just a good consistency.

Use WD-40 and plenty of q-tips to help clean up any seepage. don't rush it. Be sure to tape rear, sides and bottom of recoil lug.

When done, the action screws should turn freely then suddenly STOP when tight. (Should not gradually tighten). Almost as if they have bottomed out. If they gradually tighten, it is a sure sign there is some binding on the action somewhere, and that is precisely what you are trying to avoid. Don't be afraid to dremel it out a bit (maybe 1/8 of an inch off the top) and redo it. It usually takes me 2-3 tries to get it right, and I get frustrated trying, but it can be done.

[yotehtr1]

ya im seeing alot of places are $60 on a 1 pound can. found a guy on ebay at $35. is that a good price?

[foxx]

ya im seeing alot of places are $60 on a 1 pound can. found a guy on ebay at $35. is that a good price?

Yep. There's a retail store on the internet, too. Can't remember the name. Some kind of industrial supply place. But that price seems right in line with them.

[yotehtr1]

Devcon 10110 is really good stuff. Very hard. Good finish. Good peanut butter-like consistency when applying. Stays put. Look around on the net for your best price. It can be had for 1/2 what most places charge. Works well for the pillars and the action. It is not the best material for repairing stocks, but I really believe it might be the best for bedding actions.

Some tips: If you install the pillars first (I do) get some carriage bolts from the hardware store and cut the head off and use in place of the action screws. Screw them in place and then, then slip the action into the bedding with the screws acting as a guide. The idea here is to NOT use the action screws as a means to draw the action into the stock and hold it as the epoxy cures. It is better to use these "guide screws" and use tape to hold the action into the bedding so there is less stress imposed as it sets.

Also, there are many options for release agent, I like Brownells Accra Release. It sprays on, releases with no effort and is easy to apply without missing any spots.

Use plumbers putty for your dams and plugging holes etc. Doesn't dry out like play dough or other stuff. Just a good consistency.

Use WD-40 and plenty of q-tips to help clean up any seepage. don't rush it. Be sure to tape rear, sides and bottom of recoil lug.

When done, the action screws should turn freely then suddenly STOP when tight. (Should not gradually tighten). Almost as if they have bottomed out. If they gradually tighten, it is a sure sign there is some binding on the action somewhere, and that is precisely what you are trying to avoid. Don't be afraid to dremel it out a bit (maybe 1/8 of an inch off the top) and redo it. It usually takes me 2-3 tries to get it right, and I get frustrated trying, but it can be done.


thank you very much for all the tips! very helpful.

[BillPa]

Yep. There's a retail store on the internet, too. Can't remember the name. Some kind of industrial supply place. But that price seems right in line with them.


$33.04 /1 lb.
http://weldwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?::1:WLDWH:1:230=10110

[LongRange]

Thats what I was looking at earlier in a bedding write up. sounds like nice stuff. you've had good luck with it? will it work well for epoxying in the pillars as well as bedding the action?

yes and like foxx and billpa said best bedding compound there is and I use kiwi clear shoe polish as a releasing agent..put a coat on EVERY THING then polish it like a shoe then add another coat to the bottom of the action and polish again...another tip get everything ready and fit your action to the stock and check everything then do it again. Make sure you puddy EVERY hole in your action and fit check again. And after you bed it DO NOT TOUCH it for 12 hours 24 is better and make sure to let it set up for a few days to cure good before shooting.

[Redandwhite_72]

SAME BOAT YOUR IN...

Just got these in...I had been searching for a quality pillar material to use on my rifle build...searched high and low...didnt want to use lamp rod as I am sending the stock out to Jeff at CDI to be inlet'd for DBM so I wanted aluminum to ease the load on his tooling, brass or bronze is lots harder than aluminum...last week I stumbled onto ERNIETHEGUNSMITH.COM I bought enough 1/2" OD x .252" ID x 4" and 3/8" OD x .252" ID x 4" rod stock to do 5-6 rifles for $19.85 shipped...pillar stock came today and it is QUALITY material...

http://erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/c42_p1.html

http://erniethegunsmith.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/webassets/AluStockForCustomInstall.jpg

Is it just me or do those rods look bent? Maybe I need to go to bed, I don't know.

[GaCop]

Is it just me or do those rods look bent? Maybe I need to go to bed, I don't know. I think the shadow along the right side give the illusion of them being bent.

[Redandwhite_72]

I think the shadow along the right side give the illusion of them being bent.

Yeah could be.

[olddav]

Don't let it throw you, it's just a catalog picture. Wrong lens or something like that.
I wish I had found those before would have saved me some trouble, adding bookmark now.

[yotehtr1]

What do you guys use to drill the holes in the stock to a larger diameter for the pillars? I only have a cordless drill but could maybe borrow the use of a press. Just worried about keeping the holes straight. Also do you use a special bit or just a standard wood bit? And I'm assuming you actually drill the holes slightly larger than the pillars to allow room for the epoxy. Am I correct on that? Thanks