Custom savage please help...

[Bigeclipse]

All,
I was contemplating getting a new savage in 308 or 300 win...I know, big difference and I have not made my mind up yet but that is not the problem. This savage will be used in it's stock form until I blow out the barrel. The problem is deciding which savage model to buy. This rifle will see most it's shots in the 100-300 yard range out of tree stands with shooting rails but I do have a field I sit on that is 500 yards which the 300 win mags extra oomph would be nice. Anyways, where I am stuck is which savage model to buy. There are so many. I was hoping to buy one either with a decent stock from factory (accustock or one of the HS precision models) or buy a base model savage and put a new stock on it but it seems like stocks are limited for the box magazine savage's which all new savage's are. I do not have a gunsmith around who can do bedding jobs so please keep all suggestions to stocks with aluminum bedding blocks...I know these are not as good as a full-on bedding job but I have found them to be decent enough in my remingtons. I "MAY" try and start doing bedding myself on an old savage I have lying around.
So here is my list of wants:

1) Appropriate barrel length for caliber (24-26" for the 300 mag and 22 for the 308) I do not like short barrels
2) Either a decent stock from factory or cheaper base model which would be upgradable to an aftermarket stock with aluminum bedding blocks (I would hope to not have to buy a 500+ dollar stock) I do have a small concern about the smaller accustock recoil lug and the 300win mag. I thought I remember reading someone having issues but I cant find it now.
3) weight...this is not a big factor but I dont want to lug around an ultra-bull barrel bench set-up. Varmint is ok. I held a .223 precision carbine model weighing 8lbs and that seemed fine for weight. I do have a lightweight mountain rifle already (6lbs) so the new rifle does not need to be super light either.
4) Cost...again not super critical but I would like to stay around 1000$...this would mean a higher costing model or a cheaper model plus stock (example 500-600 dollar model then buy a 300 dollar stock).

[Bigeclipse]

No one has any suggestions?

[foxx]

My latest build was a "tactcal in 308. off of the Hog Hunter. Installed it in a pillared and bedded Boyds tacticool stock with a DBM from a different model 10 . Removed the sights from the barrel, installed a used muzzle brake. Mounted an SWFA SS16 with EGW rail and SWFA rings. IT also has Harris swivel bi-pod, Easily and consistently shoots 1/3 MOA at100 yards. replaced Accutrigger with SSS Competition trigger. Very happy with etire setup.

Just purchased a Primary Arms 4-14x40 FFP with Mil/Mil turrets and reitcal. Will try give it a try soon.

I chose HH because it has top bolt release and Accutrigger and short heavy barrel.

In my mind, the Stevens 200 (if you can find one and install aftermarket trigger) and the Hog Hunter are the best two models for builds due t price and reasons already stated.

If you prefer different caliber, you can sell the barrel and get an aftermarket in your caliber choice. I could not b happier with this particular factory barrel, though. I doubt you can do better buying new.

[jonbearman]

I would buy one with a good stock on it from the get go if you intend on shooting it till the barrel is shot out.I like the hs precision stocks like on the long range target rifles myself.However if you are a tree hunter weight may be a factor and maybe one with a laminate could be a little lighter to haul out in the woods. If you want the extra power then start with it or you may become dissatisfied with the performance when shooting long distance in the first place.

[Bigeclipse]

My latest build was a "tactcal in 308. off of the Hog Hunter. Installed it in a pillared and bedded Boyds tacticool stock with a DBM from a different model 10 . Removed the sights from the barrel, installed a used muzzle brake. Mounted an SWFA SS16 with EGW rail and SWFA rings. IT also has Harris swivel bi-pod, Easily and consistently shoots 1/3 MOA at100 yards. replaced Accutrigger with SSS Competition trigger. Very happy with etire setup.

Just purchased a Primary Arms 4-14x40 FFP with Mil/Mil turrets and reitcal. Will try give it a try soon.

I chose HH because it has top bolt release and Accutrigger and short heavy barrel.

In my mind, the Stevens 200 (if you can find one and install aftermarket trigger) and the Hog Hunter are the best two models for builds due t price and reasons already stated.

If you prefer different caliber, you can sell the barrel and get an aftermarket in your caliber choice. I could not b happier with this particular factory barrel, though. I doubt you can do better buying new.
Sounds like a lot of work haha. How hard was it to pillar and bed the stock? I'm slightly mechanically inclined but all the YouTube videos seem to make it seem pretty hard/complex.

I would buy one with a good stock on it from the get go if you intend on shooting it till the barrel is shot out.I like the hs precision stocks like on the long range target rifles myself.However if you are a tree hunter weight may be a factor and maybe one with a laminate could be a little lighter to haul out in the woods. If you want the extra power then start with it or you may become dissatisfied with the performance when shooting long distance in the first place.
I am a tree stand hunter for the most part but 90% of my stands have shooting rails.... especially ones that might have far shots so I'm not terribly worried about weight. I held the 223 precision model which is only a half pound lighter than the fcp hs precision line and it did not seem to bad. As far as laminate... which models would those be and are they pillar bedded and free floated?

[big honkin jeep]

Man if it's a magnum caliber you want I'd look at the bear hunter. All the bells and whistles of a custom rifle at a factory rifle price and should serve you well in either 300Win mag (probably be easier to get ammo for) or Win short mag. These rifles leave absolutely nothing on the table. Don't let the retail $ throw you because they can usually be had for much less and here's a link to the Savage site, Check the specialty series and look at the bear hunter. http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/models/
I sure wish they made em in standard long action calibers.
They did make an identical 116 years ago with all the bells and whistles except the accutrigger and accustock which hadn't come along yet, and I'm sure glad I went ahead and got one. I've been loving mine since 1996 and it's easily my favorite deer rifle. It's a 116 FLCSAK in 30-06 and absolutely shoots the lights out with hand loads ( best is a .446 10 shot group) The adjustable brake is sweet and can be turned off if you wish. The bear hunter is the same thing with the accutrigger and accustock. I darn sure wouldn't worry about the recoil lug as I'm sure it's plenty sturdy enough. Here's a pic of my 116FLCSAK It's stainless with a med fluted barrel detachable box mag adjustable muzzle brake synthetic stock and the only thing I've done to this one is adjust the trigger and work up a load. It has sure killed a pile of deer since 1996 and has dropped everything the trigger was pulled on. It keeps up with any custom hunting rifle, tactical rifle and some benchrest rifles at the range that want to pull up a bench.





http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w188/bighonkinjeep/00ca7186-d5bd-4a09-8d21-0e3ebf3d5c7e_zpsf5138a4e.jpg (http://s176.photobucket.com/user/bighonkinjeep/media/00ca7186-d5bd-4a09-8d21-0e3ebf3d5c7e_zpsf5138a4e.jpg.html)

Dont walk, Run and get one. You'll be glad you did!

[CH Luke]

If you plan on sending a lot or rounds down range where ammo costs become a consideration you might consider a 308. I have been very pleased with the box stock accuracy from 100 to 1000 yards of my 12 VLP with its 26" varmint barrel. Its 1:10 twist gets 168 to 175 grain bullets up to some decent velocities without pressing the limits.
The only reason I am considering a new stock is see if it can help to compete in F T/R.

[bootsmcguire]

Just my $.02, and I know it is not one of your choices, but very close, why not go with a 30-06? Splits the difference power wise between the 308 and 300WM, very tolerable recoil, just as accurate as the other 2 and plenty capable of taking deer sized things out to 500yds.

500yd kills with the 30-06 on deer sized game are easily attainable if you can place the bullet. And there is no more commonly found ammo anywhere than the 30-06 with maybe the 30-30 as the only exception. Every Mom & Pop store from here to there probably has at least 3 boxes of the ol' -06 on the shelf.

http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/model/16FCSS This one has the accu-trigger and accu-stock and is SS to boot.

[foxx]

I really have to apologize. Thought I was answering a different thread about possible tactic options. That would not serve you well for what you describe. If I were you I would look at hunter or trophy hunter xp in 260 or 308. My first choice 260. Flatter shooting and lighter recoil. More than enough gun for any game the 308 would claim appropriate for. I believe the plastic stocks are more than adequate out to 300 yards on deer size game. If you might want to do some varmint or predator hunting at longer range you could later upgrade to a lami ate stock in $ 100 range. Or start with a ccustock and out to 500 yards you'll be fine I see no advantage to a heavy barrel u less you do varmint t hunting ( many shots within a couple minutes without ha ing time to allow barrel to cool) or a lot of target shooting. Even so, if you are willing to wait about 5 mins between shots you'll be fine and with sporter contour barrel.

[SlimySquirrel]

Depends what kinda hurry you are in.

If you want to wait to find a decent rig that has a nice stock then you could be waiting a while unless you get lucky.

If it were me, I would source a decent action, look at the Stockade budget option on a stock and get a barrel from the Mcgowan outlet.
A few flash parts from Timney, SSS and you are sorted.

There are many options available and when starting from scratch you can get pretty much what you want with some patience.

The other fine option is the Bear Hunter. It comes ready to rock and is just fine for hunting... the Barrel may not be long enough for your preference though.

[Bigeclipse]

Just my $.02, and I know it is not one of your choices, but very close, why not go with a 30-06? Splits the difference power wise between the 308 and 300WM, very tolerable recoil, just as accurate as the other 2 and plenty capable of taking deer sized things out to 500yds.

500yd kills with the 30-06 on deer sized game are easily attainable if you can place the bullet. And there is no more commonly found ammo anywhere than the 30-06 with maybe the 30-30 as the only exception. Every Mom & Pop store from here to there probably has at least 3 boxes of the ol' -06 on the shelf.

http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/model/16FCSS This one has the accu-trigger and accu-stock and is SS to boot.

I already own a 3006 which is my lightweight mountain rifle. The only reason I was considering the 308 was simply it would be a rifle my wife and I may share. She hunts a 243 currently and is looking to step up without much more recoil. She shot my 3006 and says its "ok" for recoil, so I figured the 308 being a tad bit lighter would be something she would be very comfortable hunting with. I personally would rather have the 300 win mag, but she would NEVER use it lol I may end up buying two rifles lol one 308 and one 300 win...still unsure though.


I really have to apologize. Thought I was answering a different thread about possible tactic options. That would not serve you well for what you describe. If I were you I would look at hunter or trophy hunter xp in 260 or 308. My first choice 260. Flatter shooting and lighter recoil. More than enough gun for any game the 308 would claim appropriate for. I believe the plastic stocks are more than adequate out to 300 yards on deer size game. If you might want to do some varmint or predator hunting at longer range you could later upgrade to a lami ate stock in $ 100 range. Or start with a ccustock and out to 500 yards you'll be fine I see no advantage to a heavy barrel u less you do varmint t hunting ( many shots within a couple minutes without ha ing time to allow barrel to cool) or a lot of target shooting. Even so, if you are willing to wait about 5 mins between shots you'll be fine and with sporter contour barrel.

No varmint hunting or predator hunting. This will also not be a bench rest shooting rig. This will only be a deer hunting rig. I would like whatever rig I get to be able to place 2-3 consecutive shots in 1MOA or less out to 500 yards. Most shots will be under 200yards, but there is one field I sit on that is 475 at its furthest. I doubt id ever shoot that distance BUT should the chance arrive on a nice deer and I cant close the gap...id want to know I could take the shot. I know bedding a stock is the BEST solution for accuracy but there are ZERO gunsmiths where I am that do this and I am not comfortable enough to bed the rifle myself. I have had good luck with my one remington which has the aluminum bedding block in it. I know these aluminum bedding blocks still do not match the performance of a good bedding job but if they can get me 1MOA or less out to 400-500yards, that would be good enough for me.


Depends what kinda hurry you are in.

If you want to wait to find a decent rig that has a nice stock then you could be waiting a while unless you get lucky.

If it were me, I would source a decent action, look at the Stockade budget option on a stock and get a barrel from the Mcgowan outlet.
A few flash parts from Timney, SSS and you are sorted.

There are many options available and when starting from scratch you can get pretty much what you want with some patience.

The other fine option is the Bear Hunter. It comes ready to rock and is just fine for hunting... the Barrel may not be long enough for your preference though.

By waiting for a good rig do you mean finding one used at a gun shop or on gun broker? as far a source a decent action...do you mean going around to shops or gun broker to find a used base model 10-110? Stockade stocks...do these need bedding? I would like to avoid a bedding job as there is no one around to do it where I live.

[foxx]

Big, given all of that, I think the Accustock will serve you well, just as your Remmy has done. There are synthetic stocks with aluminum bedding avail that run about $300. They are stiffer in the forend so a bipod works better. If you won't be using a bipod, I see no real advantage or improvement with them. Also, it is tempting to try to stiffen the cheaper, non Accustock synthetics, some people report limited success with that. But, that requires bedding steel rods or arrow shafts or something similar. It doesn't sound like you want to mess with anything like that.

If it were me, I would look for a used rifle and basically discard or sell everything but the action and build from there. But I enjoy doing all that, and if you don't feel comfortable attempting a bedding job, then doing a build would not be worthwhile either. Savage barrels are easily swapped, but you really need the right tools, and they are too expensive, in my opinion, for a one-time deal. Triggers are easily replaced, but an Accutrigger is pretty nice for hunting and even casual "target".

Personally, I don't think the 308 is all that different from the 30-06. If it were me, I would consider a 260 because it is lighter and softer recoil and flatter, faster shooting at long range. You and your wife might both like it.

Getting 2 new rifles is always better than 1!!! :)

[Bigeclipse]

Big, given all of that, I think the Accustock will serve you well, just as your Remmy has done. There are synthetic stocks with aluminum bedding avail that run about $300. They are stiffer in the forend so a bipod works better. If you won't be using a bipod, I see no real advantage or improvement with them. Also, it is tempting to try to stiffen the cheaper, non Accustock synthetics, some people report limited success with that. But, that requires bedding steel rods or arrow shafts or something similar. It doesn't sound like you want to mess with anything like that.

If it were me, I would look for a used rifle and basically discard or sell everything but the action and build from there. But I enjoy doing all that, and if you don't feel comfortable attempting a bedding job, then doing a build would not be worthwhile either. Savage barrels are easily swapped, but you really need the right tools, and they are too expensive, in my opinion, for a one-time deal. Triggers are easily replaced, but an Accutrigger is pretty nice for hunting and even casual "target".

Personally, I don't think the 308 is all that different from the 30-06. If it were me, I would consider a 260 because it is lighter and softer recoil and flatter, faster shooting at long range. You and your wife might both like it.

Getting 2 new rifles is always better than 1!!! :)

so are you saying buying an aftermarket stock such as the B&C stock with aluminum bedding is not worth it if you are not going to further bed it? For example, say you found an older savage 110 in great shape but the stock is just terrible for like 300 bucks but it has a flimsy factory stock or a wood stock in terrible shape...buying a B&C medalist TM sporter wouldnt be worth it with out further bedding? I have researched the tools required for rebarreling and that does interest me with savages as I find used savages around her all the time for cheap.

[foxx]

Not at all. I am saying a quality synthetic stock that is stiff does not need bedding. A stock with aluminum bedding is already bedded. A flimsy savage factory stock that flexes in front of or at the front action screw will benefit from stiffening, but I have yet to see anyone come up with a way to adequately stiffen it at that point.

For sure, one of the best virtues of Savages is the ability to swap barrels. I would encourage you to take advantage of that I you're open to it.

Similarly, I would encourage you to learn to bed actions. However, bedding normally helps solve problems associated with wood stocks. Most synthetic stocks don't need bedding if they are pillared. (wood stocks expand and contract with heat/cold and humidity, etc. Synthetics do not. ) Stiffening a flexible stock is not the same concept as bedding. We often use many of the same materials, but it is a different process with a different objective.

[Bigeclipse]

Not at all. I am saying a quality synthetic stock that is stiff does not need bedding. A stock with aluminum bedding is already bedded. A flimsy savage factory stock that flexes in front of or at the front action screw will benefit from stiffening, but I have yet to see anyone come up with a way to adequately stiffen it at that point.

For sure, one of the best virtues of Savages is the ability to swap barrels. I would encourage you to take advantage of that I you're open to it.

Similarly, I would encourage you to learn to bed actions. However, bedding normally helps solve problems associated with wood stocks. Most synthetic stocks don't need bedding if they are pillared. (wood stocks expand and contract with heat/cold and humidity, etc. Synthetics do not. ) Stiffening a flexible stock is not the same concept as bedding. We often use many of the same materials, but it is a different process with a different objective.

building these semi-custom savages definitely appeals to me. The barrel swaps seem very easy with the right tools that look to cost like 50 bucks for barrel wrench, 60+ for action wrench and then go and no go gagues. I was contemplating taking my brothers older 7mm rem mag 110 and buying a new barrel for that to be the 300win mag ive wanted as well as buying the 308 or 260 for my wife. The only hick-up for that was the only stock I could find for that action that was below 300 bucks was the B&C medalist sporter which would only take sporter sized barrels. Looking at pac nors site, this would be a #3 contour or less. Since this would not be a target gun or varmint gun, a sporter barrel does not really bug me. I have researched bedding quite a bit online and on you tube. It seems pretty straight forward (as in I understand all the steps) BUT it seems like there are many chances for error and learning/practicing on a 200+ dollar stock scares me as I am not extremely well off haha. It seems like after a few bedding jobs, one would start to do a good job but that is a few too many for me to shell out that kind of cash. BUT i really do appreciate your input :)

[foxx]

Further clarification:

Bedding is no more difficult or challenging than a "build". Don't be afraid of it. If you are not "scared-off" by the idea of swapping barrels, checking headspace, etc., ten you are more than up to the challenge of bedding. :) Dive in, buddy! Savage rifles are ideal for the guy that wants to DIY or tinker or customize, etc. I have absolutely no mechanical ability whatsoever. My family used to run when they'd see me walking around with a screw driver in my hand. Now I'm obsessed with building rifles! :) SAVAGE rifles, nothing else. :)

[foxx]

You won't ruin a stock by trying to bed an action to it. You might have to retry a few times before you get it right, but that's okay.

[Bigeclipse]

You won't ruin a stock by trying to bed an action to it. You might have to retry a few times before you get it right, but that's okay.

If you did it wrong, how do you go about removing the compound? Also, there are videos where it looks as if you fill spaces you do not wished to be bedded with a compound that looks like play dough...what is this compound? After the bedding job is complete, how do you remove that compound from things like screw holes on the action? Which bedding compounds do you use? When bedding a wooden stock which needs pillars, where do you get those pillars? so many questions...lol

[SlimySquirrel]

I have seen the medalist with varmint barrels.

Reckon it would just require a bit of opening up.

If you become a paid member here you can search the classifieds as well as read the how to and review sections.

There are also some decent rigs on snipers hide as well so it would pay to look there also.

[foxx]

Short asnwer: There's nothing you can't fix with enough JB weld and a Dremel. :)

Before you bed, you will remove some wood with a dremel. If you mess it up, you will dremel it out, (partially) and try again.
Spaces and voids and screw holes are filled with plumbers putty. Also, you apply a release agent to anything you don't want the epoxy to stick to. Clear Kiwi shoe polis or my favorite, Acra release from Brownell's.
For epoxy, I like Devcon 10110. JB weld works well, too. Acraglass is made for bedding, but not my favorite. There are lots of options.
Lamp rod makes good pillars. They can also be made by hand or bought premade. Hard to beat lamp rod. Avail at hardware store, it's for fixing / making lamps.
Use q-tips and wd-40 to cleanup spills/overflow.
Electrical tape for clamping everything together.
There's more , but that's a good start .