Custom savage please help...

[Bigeclipse]

Short asnwer: There's nothing you can't fix with enough JB weld and a Dremel. :)

Before you bed, you will remove some wood with a dremel. If you mess it up, you will dremel it out, (partially) and try again.
Spaces and voids and screw holes are filled with plumbers putty. Also, you apply a release agent to anything you don't want the epoxy to stick to. Clear Kiwi shoe polis or my favorite, Acra release from Brownell's.
For epoxy, I like Devcon 10110. JB weld works well, too. Acraglass is made for bedding, but not my favorite. There are lots of options.
Lamp rod makes good pillars. They can also be made by hand or bought premade. Hard to beat lamp rod. Avail at hardware store, it's for fixing / making lamps.
Use q-tips and wd-40 to cleanup spills/overflow.
Electrical tape for clamping everything together.
There's more , but that's a good start .

Thanks for the info. How do you know how long to cut the pillars (if using lamp rod or something else)? Will you be able to use your old acion screws or will you need longer/shorter ones? If you need new ones, where do you get those lol? Thanks again.

[Bigeclipse]

I have seen the medalist with varmint barrels.

Reckon it would just require a bit of opening up.

If you become a paid member here you can search the classifieds as well as read the how to and review sections.

There are also some decent rigs on snipers hide as well so it would pay to look there also.


I will look into becoming a paid member and snipers hide. Thanks!

[foxx]

make pillars long enough to just hold the action as high in the stock as the stock itself holds it. Keep it level. The objective is to keep the action in the same position as it is originally, but remove the wood immediately below (about 1'4 inch) and replace with material less subject to the environment and its elements so that it does not change with the weather. Therefor, your old action screws will work. If done properly, when you are done, the wood of the stock will simply sit between and around the bedding material , pillars and the bottom metal. In other words, the pillars and bedding is now your frame for the action and everything else. The wood is just there for looks and to serve as a shoulder stock and hand grip.

[Bigeclipse]

make pillars long enough to just hold the action as high in the stock as the stock itself holds it. Keep it level. The objective is to keep the action in the same position as it is originally, but remove the wood immediately below (about 1'4 inch) and replace with material less subject to the environment and its elements so that it does not change with the weather. Therefor, your old action screws will work. If done properly, when you are done, the wood of the stock will simply sit between and around the bedding material , pillars and the bottom metal. In other words, the pillars and bedding is now your frame for the action and everything else. The wood is just there for looks and to serve as a shoulder stock and hand grip.

Maybe I will do a practice run on my brother's old wood stock which I plan on replacing anyways. This way if I screw up...no big deal haha.

[big honkin jeep]

If your wife can handle a 30-06 then a 300WSM or 300 Win Mag with the brake would be a piece of cake and probably recoil more like a .243 or 7-08.
If you want a hobby then buy a cheap beater Savage and wrench away. It's fun, addicting and rewarding but takes a little time, patience and ability to separate bull from bull on the internet and follow instructions.
If you want a darn good rifle that's plug and play, Scary accurate out of the box, Has all the custom rifle features, And should serve you well for a lifetime, then the Bear Hunter is your ticket.
Good luck and I hope you find just the right rifle.

[Bigeclipse]

Actually the brake and barrel length is kind of a turn off for me and the bear model. I know its 23in but 24 is minimum for me and 300win mags, I actually prefer 26. Brakes...I cant get over the sound. We hunt with out hearing protection and sometimes shots happen quickly so no time to put hearing protection in. I know you can close the brake but I have heard some say the rifle does not shoot as well with brake closed.

[big honkin jeep]

Actually the brake and barrel length is kind of a turn off for me and the bear model. I know its 23in but 24 is minimum for me and 300win mags, I actually prefer 26. Brakes...I cant get over the sound. We hunt with out hearing protection and sometimes shots happen quickly so no time to put hearing protection in. I know you can close the brake but I have heard some say the rifle does not shoot as well with brake closed.

I have a couple of different rifles with the adjustable brake and haven't noticed any change in Point Of Impact open or closed. Some folks like em some folks don't but personally I love the significant recoil reduction they provide. It just seems to be easier to shoot well when I know there is very little recoil coming at me.
I'm not trying to preach or be holier than thou but as someone with constant tinnitus and hearing loss at several frequencies I always hunt with hearing protection and would highly recommend that everyone who doesn't to suck it up, quit making excuses and use it. Good electronic protection is everywhere now gets cheaper every day and is much cheaper than hearing aids and hearing loss later. Even the cheap corded rubber ear plugs can be worn around the neck and inserted pretty darn quickly with minimal movement. Here's a pretty good read on the subject. http://www.gunsandammo.com/gun-culture/the-science-of-hearing-protection/
Any centerfire is going to be very detrimental to hearing without it braked or not. The recoil however is another matter LOL.

I wouldn't get too hung up on barrel length either. You ought to see what some of the guys are doing with 12" and 14" striker handguns at 600 yards and beyond. My personal last build was a left handed 16" 308 carbine. I was amazed at how much easier a shorter barreled rifle is to carry point and use period, much less in a stand or walking in the woods. Accuracy is fine handling is amazing and I don't think any of the deer are gonna have time to complain when a 165gr accubond smacks em in the bread basket.
If a Win Mag lost 40 FPS over every 1" of barrel, I don't think anyone that's not willing to run out in front of you and set up a chrony in front of a deer is going to notice one way or another.
I recommend the Bear Hunter based on nearly two decades of experience with a very similar rifle that has been my favorite since 1996. I would confidently recommend it to anyone wanting a magnum caliber rifle. As for the price I don't think any company out there puts as many quality features into a rifle as Savage and certainly wont do so anywhere near their price. As I stated I sure wish they would offer em in standard long action calibers. I'd be all over a new one with the modern upgrades to the trigger and stock. Necessary for me to replace the one I have? No. Nice to have? Most definitely.
I hope you find exactly what you're looking for.

[darkker]

1) Appropriate barrel length for caliber (24-26" for the 300 mag and 22 for the 308) I do not like short barrels
2) Either a decent stock from factory or cheaper base model which would be upgradable to an aftermarket stock with aluminum bedding blocks (I would hope to not have to buy a 500+ dollar stock) I do have a small concern about the smaller accustock recoil lug and the 300win mag. I thought I remember reading someone having issues but I cant find it now.
3) weight...this is not a big factor but I dont want to lug around an ultra-bull barrel bench set-up. Varmint is ok. I held a .223 precision carbine model weighing 8lbs and that seemed fine for weight. I do have a lightweight mountain rifle already (6lbs) so the new rifle does not need to be super light either.
4) Cost...again not super critical but I would like to stay around 1000$...this would mean a higher costing model or a cheaper model plus stock (example 500-600 dollar model then buy a 300 dollar stock).

1) "Appropriate" is also spelled "best" and it doesn't exist. If you don't like short barrels, you already answered your question. Shorter barrels have more muzzle blast, and can lose some velocity. But let's be realistic: for 99.99% of all shooters, any velocity loss is irrelevant. For the distances you are talking it is even more irrelevant to the task at hand. Do you want to burn less powder to easily kill deer, or burn more to easily kill deer?

2) Savage never built a decent factory stock. Since you haven't built this yet, why the concern over pillar bedding? I've been shooting to a mile for years without any bedding. I recommend not coming up with solutions to problems that don't yet exist, especially since your budget doesn't allow for it. Buy a $90 Boyds or Duramaxx and start shooting. We are talking 300-500 yard hunting, not pin point shooting to a mile is what you stated.
3) Again, you need to focus on your goals here. If you are climbing a stand, putting the gun on training wheels, or laying in a field, how much "lugging" is there? Are you walking a bit and waiting, or do you expect to have to run a mile, climb as fast as possible, then shoot in under 2 seconds? I walk sections at a time with a 16# rifle with no concern. What really do you want? This is yours to answer.

4) this again goes to what do you want, and is your budget tight as stated, or extravagant? Personally, if you spend $1,000 on a 300 yard hunting rifle... You are merely trying to keep up with the Tacktikool Jones's.

That's just me, you spend your money however you want to. I have 2 rifles that I shoot to a mile, regularly. Only one of them approaches that $1,000 mark. My new one I built is a Creedmoor. Marlin XL7 actions take Savage small shank barrels...
XL7 - $310
Boyds stock -$90
Shaw barrel -$189
PA 4-14x mil/mil ffp scope -$229
That will very happily shoot sub moa at a mile. STOCK, that 25-06 was just outside moa at 1,000. You are talking about hunting deer MUCH closer. Buy Stevens, put a scope on it, and get some meat in the freezer.

[Bigeclipse]

1) "Appropriate" is also spelled "best" and it doesn't exist. If you don't like short barrels, you already answered your question. Shorter barrels have more muzzle blast, and can lose some velocity. But let's be realistic: for 99.99% of all shooters, any velocity loss is irrelevant. For the distances you are talking it is even more irrelevant to the task at hand. Do you want to burn less powder to easily kill deer, or burn more to easily kill deer?

2) Savage never built a decent factory stock. Since you haven't built this yet, why the concern over pillar bedding? I've been shooting to a mile for years without any bedding. I recommend not coming up with solutions to problems that don't yet exist, especially since your budget doesn't allow for it. Buy a $90 Boyds or Duramaxx and start shooting. We are talking 300-500 yard hunting, not pin point shooting to a mile is what you stated.
3) Again, you need to focus on your goals here. If you are climbing a stand, putting the gun on training wheels, or laying in a field, how much "lugging" is there? Are you walking a bit and waiting, or do you expect to have to run a mile, climb as fast as possible, then shoot in under 2 seconds? I walk sections at a time with a 16# rifle with no concern. What really do you want? This is yours to answer.

4) this again goes to what do you want, and is your budget tight as stated, or extravagant? Personally, if you spend $1,000 on a 300 yard hunting rifle... You are merely trying to keep up with the Tacktikool Jones's.

That's just me, you spend your money however you want to. I have 2 rifles that I shoot to a mile, regularly. Only one of them approaches that $1,000 mark. My new one I built is a Creedmoor. Marlin XL7 actions take Savage small shank barrels...
XL7 - $310
Boyds stock -$90
Shaw barrel -$189
PA 4-14x mil/mil ffp scope -$229
That will very happily shoot sub moa at a mile. STOCK, that 25-06 was just outside moa at 1,000. You are talking about hunting deer MUCH closer. Buy Stevens, put a scope on it, and get some meat in the freezer.

Thank you for your comments but I have some comments. I do not mean to sound like a new hunter...as I am not. I am new to savage's though.

1) about barrel length...you are right that sometimes it does not make a heck of a difference but in my 3006 is certainly did. My bullet selection and powder selection is limited becaus eit has such a shorter barrel which is annoying. Id rather lug around a longer barrel allows me a larger variety of powders and bullets than a shorter one. An example is my 3006 LOVED the TTSX in 168 grains. Shot one ragged hole with 4064 but it was only getting 2600fps even though book values suggested 2800. Now had the barrel been 4 inches longer like a typical 3006...it would be closer to that mark. Those TTSX oinly expand well beyond 2000-2200fps range which allows me to only shoot them out to 250 yards before I fall be low that speed. Now yes, can I change powders or bullets sure but it is annoying and costly when this load is so amazing for accuracy.
2) As far as bedding goes...I am new to this. You are right, I have yet to have a rifle I could not work a load up for in it's stock form and I am not looking for .25moa performance so is it really necessary to bed all rifles...most likely not especially in my case but I heard with the wood stocks it is almost always necessary...I guess I could have heard wrong.
3) I am climbing treestands most the time but not walking far distances and when I do walk far I already have a light weight rifle, so that is why I stated weight is not to much of a concern but yeah id prefer to keep the weight of the rifle without scope and other things to 9lbs or so.
4) I guess everyone's perception of budget aand extravagant is different. For me, I am trying to keep my total cost for the rifle to 1000 or less. This could mean buying a tsraight factory rifle for 1000, or buyign a cheaper rifle and putting extras, like a new stock on it.

Yes this is a 300 yard rifle BUT I did state that 500 Yard shots are possible so that is the reason for wanting as accurate a rifle as possible. I do not believe in the whole minute of dear thing people state. 1MOA at 500 yards is a 5 inch group, does that fall inside a deer's vital zone, yes...but should a person strive for better than that...I think so because that means your rifle can at BEST shoot 1MOA with out shooter error. Now put buck fever in the mix. So while 1MOA is what I desire, that is the MAX...I would prefer .75moa or even .5MOA...because then that allows an even better error for buck fever, wind conditions, ect. I really do appreciate your comments though. I think what I will be doing is convernting my brothers older savage110 7mm rem mag into a 300 winmag this winter and then also buying my wife a new or a nice used 308/260 for a step up from here 243.

[Bigeclipse]

I have a couple of different rifles with the adjustable brake and haven't noticed any change in Point Of Impact open or closed. Some folks like em some folks don't but personally I love the significant recoil reduction they provide. It just seems to be easier to shoot well when I know there is very little recoil coming at me.
I'm not trying to preach or be holier than thou but as someone with constant tinnitus and hearing loss at several frequencies I always hunt with hearing protection and would highly recommend that everyone who doesn't to suck it up, quit making excuses and use it. Good electronic protection is everywhere now gets cheaper every day and is much cheaper than hearing aids and hearing loss later. Even the cheap corded rubber ear plugs can be worn around the neck and inserted pretty darn quickly with minimal movement. Here's a pretty good read on the subject. http://www.gunsandammo.com/gun-culture/the-science-of-hearing-protection/
Any centerfire is going to be very detrimental to hearing without it braked or not. The recoil however is another matter LOL.

I wouldn't get too hung up on barrel length either. You ought to see what some of the guys are doing with 12" and 14" striker handguns at 600 yards and beyond. My personal last build was a left handed 16" 308 carbine. I was amazed at how much easier a shorter barreled rifle is to carry point and use period, much less in a stand or walking in the woods. Accuracy is fine handling is amazing and I don't think any of the deer are gonna have time to complain when a 165gr accubond smacks em in the bread basket.
If a Win Mag lost 40 FPS over every 1" of barrel, I don't think anyone that's not willing to run out in front of you and set up a chrony in front of a deer is going to notice one way or another.
I recommend the Bear Hunter based on nearly two decades of experience with a very similar rifle that has been my favorite since 1996. I would confidently recommend it to anyone wanting a magnum caliber rifle. As for the price I don't think any company out there puts as many quality features into a rifle as Savage and certainly wont do so anywhere near their price. As I stated I sure wish they would offer em in standard long action calibers. I'd be all over a new one with the modern upgrades to the trigger and stock. Necessary for me to replace the one I have? No. Nice to have? Most definitely.
I hope you find exactly what you're looking for.


that article is a good read but does not take some things into account. A rifle with a decently long barrel 22+ inches and no muzzle brake...does not produce significant noise for the shooter. That is key. So when you the shooter pull the trigger, as long as you are not next to a rock wall...the db level is actually well below the 130 mark because the sound blast is projected forward and away from you. That is why I do not really worry about hearing protection. If you put a brake on the gun or have walls next to you then that changes things drastically.

[foxx]

Big, as far as barrel length is concerned, I think it is a bigger problem with 30-06 than is for 308 and most other cartridges. Not sure why.

As for bedding... practically speaking it might not matter for most guns, but it CAN matter. I bed wood stocks because it is easy and gives me confidence that weather won't affect it.

I agree that for ME, shooting at a deer's kill zone with a 5 inch variance (1 MOA at 500 yards) is not good enough. I doubt I can hold in the center of a buck's kill zone at that distance, especially if it's a big one! :)

[Bigeclipse]

Big, as far as barrel length is concerned, I think it is a bigger problem with 30-06 than is for 308 and most other cartridges. Not sure why.

As for bedding... practically speaking it might not matter for most guns, but it CAN matter. I bed wood stocks because it is easy and gives me confidence that weather won't affect it.

I agree that for ME, shooting at a deer's kill zone with a 5 inch variance (1 MOA at 500 yards) is not good enough. I doubt I can hold in the center of a buck's kill zone at that distance, especially if it's a big one! :)

My plan at the moment...is to order B&C medalist sporter. Put it on my old savage 110 with out further bedding. Order one of those cheaper barrel kits on brownells that includes the tools, minus action wrench and throw that on. See if I can work a load up relatively quicly that is close to .75MOA or less. If so, great...if not...I will practice bedding on my old throw away wood stock. If that goes well, I will then bed the B&C stock. If that does not work, then its probably the barrel and I am out 100 bucks for it...not to big a deal.

[darkker]

Thank you for your comments but I have some comments. I do not mean to sound like a new hunter...as I am not. I am new to savage's though.

1) about barrel length...you are right that sometimes it does not make a heck of a difference but in my 3006 is certainly did. My bullet selection and powder selection is limited becaus eit has such a shorter barrel which is annoying. Id rather lug around a longer barrel allows me a larger variety of powders and bullets than a shorter one. An example is my 3006 LOVED the TTSX in 168 grains. Shot one ragged hole with 4064 but it was only getting 2600fps even though book values suggested 2800. Now had the barrel been 4 inches longer like a typical 3006...it would be closer to that mark. Those TTSX oinly expand well beyond 2000-2200fps range which allows me to only shoot them out to 250 yards before I fall be low that speed. Now yes, can I change powders or bullets sure but it is annoying and costly when this load is so amazing for accuracy.
2) As far as bedding goes...I am new to this. You are right, I have yet to have a rifle I could not work a load up for in it's stock form and I am not looking for .25moa performance so is it really necessary to bed all rifles...most likely not especially in my case but I heard with the wood stocks it is almost always necessary...I guess I could have heard wrong.
3) I am climbing treestands most the time but not walking far distances and when I do walk far I already have a light weight rifle, so that is why I stated weight is not to much of a concern but yeah id prefer to keep the weight of the rifle without scope and other things to 9lbs or so.
4) I guess everyone's perception of budget aand extravagant is different. For me, I am trying to keep my total cost for the rifle to 1000 or less. This could mean buying a tsraight factory rifle for 1000, or buyign a cheaper rifle and putting extras, like a new stock on it.

Yes this is a 300 yard rifle BUT I did state that 500 Yard shots are possible so that is the reason for wanting as accurate a rifle as possible. I do not believe in the whole minute of dear thing people state. 1MOA at 500 yards is a 5 inch group, does that fall inside a deer's vital zone, yes...but should a person strive for better than that...I think so because that means your rifle can at BEST shoot 1MOA with out shooter error. Now put buck fever in the mix. So while 1MOA is what I desire, that is the MAX...I would prefer .75moa or even .5MOA...because then that allows an even better error for buck fever, wind conditions, ect. I really do appreciate your comments though. I think what I will be doing is convernting my brothers older savage110 7mm rem mag into a 300 winmag this winter and then also buying my wife a new or a nice used 308/260 for a step up from here 243.

Yes...
For the bullets, when you have a specific requirement for velocity(as with Barnes stuff) that needs to be taken into account. As far as the accuracy bit goes. Again, this is me personally, so take this for anything you want(or nothing). As i'm sure you've seen on any board, anywhere. Everyone asks for "A" load, or "loads" that will work in X application. That is where most of the "trouble" with accuracy stems from, in my book.
Most people don't want to practice and fool with learning their rifles quirks, so the default becomes "it won't shoot". Again this isn't a call out, or meant as belittling. MOST folks I run accross who can't find a load to work, just don't spend the time needed; or change too many things at once. MZ5 had trouble getting more than M.O.D. from his 120gr class bullets in his Creed. I looked at what he had, and had done, and got him a load that totally changed that issue.
Sooo, if you want to "use what you know" there really isn't any guarantee that a new magic build will make anything happen. I suppose in the end, my thoughts for you are, keep an open mind to different component possibilities.

Cheers

[Bigeclipse]

I agree with what you say...im just saying I dont mind having a longer heavier barrel if it gains me speed. My example was just one example that I had issues with a load. I do not mind spending time on a load...it is more the money aspect. One it is hard enough to find bullet heads and powder as it is let alone spending tons on different components. I take notes on all my rifles and work loads but I try to do it with what I already own. If that does not work...I dont simply say"oh dang my gun must suck" I know its more than likely my load BUT by having a longer barrel then velocity can be one less thing I need to worry about. Yes...it may only be a 100-200fps difference but that could make a difference for a current bullet application I have so why not get the longer barrel....again I already own a short 3006 mountain rifle that will do its job out t 300 yards.

[FEENIX]

This thread looks familiar/similar to that of in the LRH side. :smile-new:

[Bigeclipse]

This thread looks familiar/similar to that of in the LRH side. :smile-new:

It is! I was going to go with the sendero but they wont be available for 2 months or longer due to the recall so I decided custom savage :) and thought id start a thread here about it. You caught me hahaha

[FEENIX]

It is! I was going to go with the sendero but they wont be available for 2 months or longer due to the recall so I decided custom savage :) and thought id start a thread here about it. You caught me hahaha

Absolutely nothing wrong with that! If you're looking for Savage experts, you found them. Cheers!