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Volstandigkeit
09-15-2013, 11:07 AM
I've been trying to get what I consider worthy accuracy from my 116AC 30-06 for a few weeks now. Factory ammo never lives up to my expectations, so I hand load just about everything. At 100 yards, the best I can get this rifle to shoot is 1 3/8" off the bench. I've noticed that it prefers max loads, so I've put together a handful of rounds to try today, 2 loadings with 150 grain pills, the third with 155 grain pills. Same powder and charge for all. Pulled is seated .010" off the lands, as it has always been. Something I've noticed with this rifle, is after sending a round, I can eject and rechamber that same piece of brass, which tells me the chamber is loose. If the chamber is loose, the bullets aren't hitting the rifling straight, and if the bullets aren't going down the barrel straight, they won't all follow the same flight path. I just bought a neck sizing die to help me with this, but couldn't order the bushing for it, so it is currently in paperweight status until I can get a bushing. The barrel with have to do for deer season this year, but for next year, I'm thinking it may end up with a new 24" barrel. Any other ideas?

thomae
09-15-2013, 11:15 AM
Something I've noticed with this rifle, is after sending a round, I can eject and rechamber that same piece of brass, which tells me the chamber is loose.
I could be mistaken, but I don't believe that your conclusion is the only possibility. For example, perhaps your brass is work-hardened and needs to be annealed.

What is your twist rate?

Have you tried any 160 grain or heavier bullets? Lighter bullets?
How many different powders have you tried?

I would not give up yet. There are myriad bullets and powders out there and just because your rifle doesn't like three different loads you have, does not mean that you won't find your tackdriver load with a little more effort.

Your rifle is still accurate enough for deer hunting at reasonable ranges.

Volstandigkeit
09-15-2013, 01:27 PM
1:10 twist. Brass is new, but was left over stuff a local gentleman had purchased it in 1984.

I've tried about 10 different powder, charge, bullet combinations all with 150 or 155 grain bullets from Hornady, Sierra, or Nosler. Noslers being least accurate, Sierras the most. I'd like to stay lighter for deer sized game, but next option will be some heavier options from Sierra, Berger, and Hornady. Everything I've tried so far indicates that this rifle favors IMR4320.

I'm certainly not giving up, just trying to gather some additional ideas that I may not have looked into. Though at some point, I will likely rebarrel as I'd prefer a 24" tube for a little better burn.

bootsmcguire
09-15-2013, 01:53 PM
I have had 2 10" twist 30-06 barrels and both preferred the heavier bullets to the 150-155 class. I had good luck with the Sierra 180gr SBT, and it performed great on deer.

Maybe I am misunderstanding you on this but, are you saying that if a rifle can rechamber a piece of brass that it just fired that the chamber is loose? I have yet to have a rifle that wouldn't rechamber its own spent brass. ;)

Volstandigkeit
09-15-2013, 02:08 PM
I have had 2 10" twist 30-06 barrels and both preferred the heavier bullets to the 150-155 class. I had good luck with the Sierra 180gr SBT, and it performed great on deer.

Maybe I am misunderstanding you on this but, are you saying that if a rifle can rechamber a piece of brass that it just fired that the chamber is loose? I have yet to have a rifle that wouldn't rechamber its own spent brass. ;)

I'm basing that on my .223 700. Shoots lights out, and won't rechamber the brass I just ejected.

Will look in to some heavier pills for it.

bootsmcguire
09-15-2013, 02:15 PM
I'm basing that on my .223 700. Shoots lights out, and won't rechamber the brass I just ejected.

Will look in to some heavier pills for it.

Understood, in my experience that is not the norm. The only barrel I had that wouldn't rechamber its own brass was a Bergara barrel that had a chamber with some deep tool gouges in the sidewalls of the chamber.

Being able to rechamber spent brass is what a Neck Sizing die is beneficial for, that way the body and shoulder of the brass is a perfect fit for your chamber.

stangfish
09-15-2013, 02:28 PM
165 imr4350

Volstandigkeit
09-15-2013, 07:19 PM
165 imr4350

Trying to find some 4350. Everyone here is out.

fgw_in_fla
09-15-2013, 07:27 PM
Good luck finding any IMR 4350. I use it in my 30.06 & 25.06 religiously. I recently found some Accurate 4350 that does comparable to the IMR4350.
Natchez had some not too long ago.

Happy powder shopping.

Volstandigkeit
09-15-2013, 07:47 PM
4320 is my number 2, and isn't hard to get. I will remember Accurate 4350 next trip to town. After house shopping today, I did pick up a blister pack of Berger 168 match hunting bullets. Hopefully it won't be drizzling and windy tomorrow.

hunterbob
09-15-2013, 10:29 PM
I agree on that.... Any brass I have fired will re-chamber, on any bolt action. Maybe if he just tried neck sizing it would be better?
I think its the powder charge and how tight is the barrel lug? Lot of factors could do that.

Volstandigkeit
09-16-2013, 01:23 AM
I agree on that.... Any brass I have fired will re-chamber, on any bolt action. Maybe if he just tried neck sizing it would be better?
I think its the powder charge and how tight is the barrel lug? Lot of factors could do that.

Working on neck sizing also. Have to find the bushing for a Redding die. 20 years of reloading, and this is my first neck sizing die.

hunterbob
09-16-2013, 06:41 AM
I don't use 4350 and never had used it, except in 243. I would go to Varget. Varget in 308 is better than factory. It took me just 3 loads before I got the right one and its consistent. I don't believe you have a brass problem, but I would do a full length resize everytime, and make sure of your case length, don't worry about moving the bullet out to touch rifling (higher pressures) until you get the problem resolved. Also if you have a cannurl on the bullet , don't crimp the neck too tight, also if bullet does not have canurle like Sierra , do not try and crimp those at all. Hope this helps ; these are problems I went through over the years. You just got to take it one step at a time. Make sure you have a quality mic to measure with too. (not those plastic dial ones)

stangfish
09-16-2013, 06:49 AM
I would go to Varget. Varget in 308 is better than factory.

I agree, But the OP wanted to know about a 30-06.

hunterbob
09-16-2013, 07:16 AM
Yes I know he wanted to know about the 06, but the problems he is having are things that I have experienced in reloading.
I'm fixin to do 3006's .... but my main point is that if you change too many things at once, is not the way. The case length and crimp or no crimp are critical and can deform a casing. Start medium range on powder (also bullet?) and work up to a hotter load , all the time watching for over pressure signs. What I am saying is . This problem is normal for any caliber. Not just that 3006 ....

Volstandigkeit
09-28-2013, 08:49 AM
I've been going over all my data from previous sessions and started putting things together. I'm starting to think this rifle will shoot, but is just inconsistent. The reason I say that, is that at 100 yards, either prone or benchrested, while a 5 shot group will be 1 3/8", not matter the bullet, no matter the load, no matter the seating depth, 3 will be touching or close to touching, and 2 will be fliers. I admit to having a few called fliers now and again, but not every group of 5. I've noticed a tight spot in the bore when cleaning, which I never even focused on being the problem. So I picked up 50 cast lead bullets from a local gentleman last night, and will get some Clover lapping compound today and load a few fire lapping rounds and see what happens. Worst case scenario it opens the groups up more and I have to buy a new barrel, best case it tightens up and starts stacking bullets in the same hole. Overall, if I can just get it to shoot under an inch I will be thrilled.

Jetpig
09-28-2013, 10:39 AM
I think you should try something in the 180g weight with the 1-10 twist. 4350's or 4831's should be good powder selection. Just thinking you need to weight it down a bit.

stangfish
09-28-2013, 11:26 AM
I am in the heavy camp. For a 06, I65's to me are minimums. The question for 150 class projectiles is... Why? If the recoil is overbearing, a 308 barrel might be a better option. A 30-06 starts to shine in every way at the >175 class mark. It is what a 30-06 does.

fgw_in_fla
09-28-2013, 11:41 AM
I am in the heavy camp. For a 06, I65's to me are minimums. The question for 150 class projectiles is... Why? If the recoil is overbearing, a 308 barrel might be a better option. A 30-06 starts to shine in every way at the >175 class mark. It is what a 30-06 does.
I have to agree with Stang. Although my '06 does well with 150's Nos BT's & 155 Nos Cust. Comps, there's no substitute for a good 180gr Bullet.
The few times I tried 4064 & Varget, I always come back to 4350. It just seems to get along with the barrel better.

Volstandigkeit
09-28-2013, 11:58 AM
180 just seems excessive for whitetails. It's certainly not a recoil thing. Also, when everyone was freaking out, 175+ were hard to locate, while 150-165 were abundant.