Axis build

[LoneWolf]

That would be more of an investment than I would prefer. Hmm.... Maybe I can rent one from home depot or something. Make for a good project next weekend!

[daviscustom]

I always do a lot of independent research before jumping into something that has a 50/50 chance of how it will work out. I'd prefer to make the odds more in my favor of going my way if I can.

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Why do you only give yourself a 50% chance of doing it right? You can always grind it out and try again if it doesn't work right. Just find some good videos on how it is done before you try it. There are some pretty good ones on youtube.

[LoneWolf]

It's not me doing it correctly, it's getting the intended results!

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[daviscustom]

So is it a 50/50 that it will work because of the squirrely recoil lug?

[LoneWolf]

I figure it's a 50/50 chance of doing it right or wrong when the project is something that you only get one chance because you're working with something that you can't easily fix or replace like a stock. Gotta find a way to raise those odds every time you do something that can't be undone. Some good research and proper preparation before starting raises those odds along with taking your time.

With a glass bedding project proper planning and preparation are very important because you are working with a more limited amount of time. So, I think I'm going to take that on next month and try to finish up the adjustable butt plate this month.

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[LoneWolf]

Well gentlemen the wife got me a bench grinder for our 6year anniversary. So, last night I started on fitting the SPS2 to the stock.

Original picture:

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a510/PJ0527/IMAG0354_zps9cc1508a.jpg[/IMG]

Where I got to last night:

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a510/PJ0527/IMAG0358_zps4809c0c1.jpg[/IMG]

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a510/PJ0527/IMAG0359_zpsd766a118.jpg[/IMG]

For comparison:

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a510/PJ0527/IMAG0360_zps4d08800e.jpg[/IMG]

I am about halfway done with grinding the first plate and will upload more pics tonight after I get some more done.

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[LoneWolf]

2/3 plates rough sized:

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a510/PJ0527/IMAG0362_zpsc89e4f72.jpg[/IMG]

http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a510/PJ0527/IMAG0363_zps37a0ada6.jpg[/IMG]

Should be finished up by the end of the week.

Plan to have the Cerakoted once finished.

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[Inebriated]

Looking great. I'm looking forward to getting that stock on my .243. What's the weight of the stock, compared to the factory plastic?

[thermaler]

LW seeing it is a fixed power and Mil-dot do the dots get in the way at say 300+ yards...meaning do they cover the target so you don't get a clear picture of the 10 ring?

I've always used the fine reticle so as not to cover the target where I can not see the bulls-eye. I'd advise go for their mil-quad reticle and pass up on the mil-dot. The mil-quad is a MRAD (mil-mil 10:1 MOA @ 100) which makes most of your range calculations easier--as well as finer for the "precision" shot. The dots are actually hollow triangles so at longer ranges you are centering the POA within that triangle (if doing hold-overs).

[LoneWolf]

Looking great. I'm looking forward to getting that stock on my .243. What's the weight of the stock, compared to the factory plastic?

It's definitely heavier than the factory, but it's a laminate. With the factory sporter barrel it definitely felt much more comfortable. I'm a big guy, so the 2 1/2in hand guard is much more comfortable. The length of pull is good for a hunting rifle where you wouldn't be shooting from the prone much if you're a taller guy. They will offer the option of a one inch recoil pad as well. I felt I needed a little more, so went fully adjustable. I intend to use it for long range prone or bench shooting locally though.

It's definitely above and beyond an improvement to the factory stock.

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[LoneWolf]

I'd advise go for their mil-quad reticle and pass up on the mil-dot. The mil-quad is a MRAD (mil-mil 10:1 MOA @ 100) which makes most of your range calculations easier--as well as finer for the "precision" shot. The dots are actually hollow triangles so at longer ranges you are centering the POA within that triangle (if doing hold-overs).

I like MOA adjustments because I can already visualize what an MOA is out to the ranges I play with and get myself on target by making adjustments in my head. It's not something I have to relearn only practice more.

Same with the mil dots. I'm not a fan of busy over technical sight pictures.

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[thermaler]

I like MOA adjustments because I can already visualize what an MOA is out to the ranges I play with and get myself on target by making adjustments in my head. It's not something I have to relearn only practice more.

Same with the mil dots. I'm not a fan of busy over technical sight pictures.

Sent from my HTCEVOV4G using Tapatalk 2To each their own. When you start reaching out for the long ones--that's when those techie reticles come into their own.

[LoneWolf]

Maybe! Still have things to learn before I experiment with other gear.

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[Inebriated]

It's definitely heavier than the factory, but it's a laminate. With the factory sporter barrel it definitely felt much more comfortable. I'm a big guy, so the 2 1/2in hand guard is much more comfortable. The length of pull is good for a hunting rifle where you wouldn't be shooting from the prone much if you're a taller guy. They will offer the option of a one inch recoil pad as well. I felt I needed a little more, so went fully adjustable. I intend to use it for long range prone or bench shooting locally though.

It's definitely above and beyond an improvement to the factory stock.

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Thanks for the info! I've actually had a plan, very similar to your build, for my .243, but I just haven't been able to find a decent stock. As soon as Richard's pushes out this stock, I'll get it going. Oh, and did you do your own barrel install? I've never done one, and I'd like to switch mine out for a faster twist and heavier contour.

[LoneWolf]

It was very easy if you get an action wrench(MidwayUSA), barrel nut wrench(MidwayUSA), Go and No-Go Gauges(MidwayUSA), and a good bench vise(Harbor Freight and Tools). Once you get it apart make sure you clean the threads very thoroughly it will make the install much easier that way.

[LoneWolf]

Other tools I recommend and forgot to list are a breaker Bar and Torque wrench!

Last note: If it is not time sensitive take your time. Things go wrong when you try to rush them!

[Inebriated]

It was very easy if you get an action wrench(MidwayUSA), barrel nut wrench(MidwayUSA), Go and No-Go Gauges(MidwayUSA), and a good bench vise(Harbor Freight and Tools). Once you get it apart make sure you clean the threads very thoroughly it will make the install much easier that way.


Other tools I recommend and forgot to list are a breaker Bar and Torque wrench!

Last note: If it is not time sensitive take your time. Things go wrong when you try to rush them!

Sounds straight-forward enough. I've read about it a little, but never seriously. Oh, and in my reading (and inspecting a couple of my own Savages), there seem to be tiny beads in between the threads of the barrel and the nut. Will removing the barrel nut with them in there affect the threads of the current barrel/barrel nut?

And again, thank you very much for taking the time to answer!

[LoneWolf]

No Problem! I hope they start releasing aftermarket stocks soon, so that I'm not the only one enjoying an Axis that hangs in there with "higher end" rifles.

Thank you all for following my build project and not trying to beat me up for additional information that I am unable to release about the stock.

Word is still late fall as far as i know, by the way!

[RkzShockwave]

Nice build.

[RkzShockwave]

I was a hair width away from purchasing the same package for my Axis .308 but the kill factor was the turrets...i was/am set on mil-mil. Excellent choice though.