My version of the 38 SPC bolt lift kit

[dolomite_supafly]

I start by drilling the primer pocket out with a 11/64" drill bit. I tap the hole 10-32 then cut off the portion of the case that is no longer needed. I use sandpaper to clean up and square the cut.

Next I take a 10-32 setscrew and grind it down, leaving a point. I polish the point to a mirror finish. If I over heat the part I will re-temper the steel. I apply Loctite then screw the setscrew into the rim just far enough to just clear the rim. It doesn't show in this picture but after it has set I also grind the flat end of the setscrew flush with the case as well. As you can see in the side view it is thinner than the ball bearing method and the setscrew in this one is only .075" above the cocking sleeve. Because of this I do not remove anything from the BAS and it works fine, reducing the bolt lift.

Here are a few pictures of a completed one:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001346.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001347.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001348.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001345.jpg

Dolomite

[CFS]

Awesome write up and great pictures

I think this needs to be a sticky!

Pop

[handirifle]

I seemed to have missed the point of this. What's it for?

[steveinwv]

Good thread. I guess that there is no fix for the "firing pin indicator" models?

[lwink]

Great job dolomite!! Thanks a bunch, can't wait to inspect your work more closely and try my hand at it!!

[dolomite_supafly]

Great job dolomite!! Thanks a bunch, can't wait to inspect your work more closely and try my hand at it!!


This is the exact one you are getting.

Dolomite

[82boy]

I guess that there is no fix for the "firing pin indicator" models?


Well, hope this make you happy, SSS makes a lifter for the newer models.

[steveinwv]

I guess that there is no fix for the "firing pin indicator" models?


Well, hope this make you happy, SSS makes a lifter for the newer models.

Super happy. My new guns bolt lift sucks.

[Smokey262]

I seemed to have missed the point of this. What's it for?

It reduces the amount of force required to lift the bolt handle after the rifle has been fired. Fred invented it.

[desertdog]

nice, how do you install it?

[Blue Avenger]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savagebolt008.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/bbcockingbutton.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/savagebolt001.jpg

[Blue Avenger]

reduces friction by reducing contact surface area. 357 case cut with tin snips, ball bearing and epoxy

[sharpshooter]

I'm scratchin' my head......how does a set screw with lots of work done to it, work any better than a ball bearing???

[TheShootist1894]

It proves he can use a Tap Wrench, clearly more bas@$$, . . . c'mon Fred

[handirifle]

I seemed to have missed the point of this. What's it for?

It reduces the amount of force required to lift the bolt handle after the rifle has been fired. Fred invented it.


Hmmm, will have to try this out.

[dolomite_supafly]

I'm scratchin' my head......how does a set screw with lots of work done to it, work any better than a ball bearing???


It is actaully thinnner than using the ball bearing method. I have a bolt lift kit and this setup is about 1/2 as thick as the kit.

Not trying to steal any of your thunder, just trying to improve upon things.

Dolomite

[Smokey262]

I too was wondering what the benefit was from turning a cheap simple job into something more complex, especially given that the benefits were negligible when installed into a rifle that was not timed and trued, let alone used without reducing the length of the BAS.

Nice craftsmanship though.

[steveinwv]

Dolomites way is excellent. I bought a 1/4" fine thread set screw for $0.35 and tapped the hole with a tap that I already had. Loctited it in and cut the .38 special case off. Installed with no firing pin spring binding and noticeable results. I'm sure timed and trued is better with this mod, but this works and is noticeably better without grinding on the BAS , which is where 90% of people will f*** something up. It does pump up your initial spring pressure a bit..........so what..........if you even know what that means then you are probably capable enough to grind down the BAS without damage to compensate for the extra pressure. Total time is 20 minutes, ball bearings were in short supply at the hardware store I went to, and I didn't have to wait for epoxy to set up.

Kudos to Fred for the initial idea and to Dolomite for improving on it. Just my humble opinion, of course.

[dolomite_supafly]

I cut two coils off of my firing pin spring using this mod and it still goes bang, even with hard primers. This should eliminate the additional spring pressure from this mod if not cutting down the BAS or cocking piece sleeve.

I went through my whole action and cleaned up and polished all areas of friction. I started by chucking the pieces I could into a drill press. I started with 220 grit then 320, 400 then used a die grinder with a fine wheel, finishing with 2000 grit. After removing from the drill press I polished the parts using a Flitz soaked buffing wheel on a bench grinder.

I did all this to the cocking piece sleeve (including inside), cocking piece, firing pin adjustment nut, cocking piece pin, inside the bolt body as well as the front of the BAS. I also polished the area the cocking piece pin rides in. I set firing pin protrusion to .040" and gave myself minimal clearance between the cocking piece pin and the bolt body.

Between my "new" bolt lift kit, cutting the spring and all the polish work I was able to cut the felt lift by roughly half compared to before when I had just a bolt lift kit I bought in a stock bolt assembly. The biggest benefit is it is very smooth, no more grttiness. It feels the same from the start to the finish of lifting the bolt handle.

Something I did notice, when using SS setscrews they don't appear to be as hard as carbon steel. I have since replaced a SS version with a carbon steel one because I was seeing a little bit of wear. With the carbon steel I haven't seen any wear as of yet.

I am sure this is no where near as nice as having a T&T'd action but I am happy with the results. I will have an action T&T'd but not this one. I will have my next one done because it is going to be a full on build.

Dolomite

[MAGNUS]

Sounds interesting...... this bolt lift kit business.