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View Full Version : New to Savage--tried an Axis, big mistake!



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M.O.A.
09-11-2012, 04:21 AM
Yah really the Stevens rifles are much better, there savage 10s and 110s just sold under the Stevens name ;-)

mattm0812
09-11-2012, 07:24 AM
Matt-
Maybe you should get a part time job as a comedian?....

:hail:

thermaler
09-11-2012, 10:40 AM
Another little lesson I learned today: the barrel was still just barely touching the stock on one side, and after I sanded the stock on the side that was touching, the barrel still contacted it and the gap on the other side widened. Hmmm, that's odd, something must be pushing the receiver I thought. I eventually traced the problem to the recoil lug--if it shifts in the stock bed it will cant everything to one side or the other. I'm considering epoxying it into place--but since it's removable I'm not sure of the pros/cons of that.

vegas steve
09-11-2012, 04:21 PM
you should epoxy bed your recoil lug on center,but use release agent so the lug is still removeable. it will always self locate and always be on center after bedding. i have found johnsons paste wax to be a great release agent,better than the agent that comes with the brownells acraglass kits.

thermaler
09-11-2012, 06:34 PM
from what i've read the op had to do an enormous amount of mods to get his gun to shoot,including buying another gun to get parts to fix the first one.doesn't seem like much of a success to me.Well, it wasn't quite that bad since I can swap out the uppers--I only bought the complete new gun because I wasn't sure I could find (or was even willing to buy) a replacement savage stock--so I decided I could still swap the uppers out--and since I have an AR 10 already it's not a total new caliber to me. Since the "stock hard-on" seems to work, I ordered another from Savage and will make it a stiffie too.

dacaur
09-11-2012, 07:16 PM
Another little lesson I learned today: the barrel was still just barely touching the stock on one side, and after I sanded the stock on the side that was touching, the barrel still contacted it and the gap on the other side widened. Hmmm, that's odd, something must be pushing the receiver I thought. I eventually traced the problem to the recoil lug--if it shifts in the stock bed it will cant everything to one side or the other. I'm considering epoxying it into place--but since it's removable I'm not sure of the pros/cons of that.

When installing the action in the stock, the trick is to get the screws just snug, then bounce the butt of the run on the floor, gently but firmly (I drop it from about 5-6" up twice), after the second bounce make sure you keep downward pressure on the action (pushing toward rear of stock) then tigten the screws, first the front, then the rear (yes the order actualy is important). A tourque screwdriver will ensure you have the correct tourqe setting, as too little can be as bad as too much.

thermaler
09-12-2012, 05:33 AM
When installing the action in the stock, the trick is to get the screws just snug, then bounce the butt of the run on the floor, gently but firmly (I drop it from about 5-6" up twice), after the second bounce make sure you keep downward pressure on the action (pushing toward rear of stock) then tigten the screws, first the front, then the rear (yes the order actualy is important). A tourque screwdriver will ensure you have the correct tourqe setting, as too little can be as bad as too much.Interesting--is the goal to simulate recoil impact when attaching? I'm still stuck on trying to figure out weather or not it's better to fix the lug in place or not--I don't know how important it is that it moves--seems like a negative to me. After my first disastrous experience I'm nervous about torquing down too hard (I live in dread of stripping the hex head of the screw)--but noticed that the receiver screws loosened a bit after some sustained shooting even after tightening per manual.

@vegas steve (I used to live off Rainbow ave, BTW)--what is the procedure for this--I've never heard of this before when dealing with epoxy? Do you coat the contact points with wax and then fill in epoxy? There really isn't any room in the lug slot other than a bit on either side--have you actually done this to an Axis of your's? Thanks for the tips.

dacaur
09-12-2012, 07:11 PM
Interesting--is the goal to simulate recoil impact when attaching? I'm still stuck on trying to figure out weather or not it's better to fix the lug in place or not--I don't know how important it is that it moves--seems like a negative to me. After my first disastrous experience I'm nervous about torquing down too hard (I live in dread of stripping the hex head of the screw)--but noticed that the receiver screws loosened a bit after some sustained shooting even after tightening per manual.


Right. As for screws, did you tighten them with a torque screwdriver and then they came loose? I was forever having issue with my scope ring screws coming loose till I bought a torque screwdriver.... turns out the old "thumb and two fingers" trick isnt as good as people make it out to be when you have a heavy scope. heh

thermaler
09-14-2012, 07:49 PM
Yep--I think it uses a 5/32" hex head if I'm not mistaken. There's just enough play in that it strips with too much torque.

thermaler
09-17-2012, 02:42 PM
Here is my finished 308 (top rifle) with "woodland" camo job along with my 270 (bottom rifle) with "grassfield" camo job. Naturally, the barrel touches the stock Savage sent me, so as soon as the finish is completely dry I'll sand it down as the last step. Should be good to go after that. Since I dropped a Timney into my 270 I figure I'll put a Basix into the 308 for variety.
http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s388/triggerpull/IMG_9276_zpse75ee58d.jpg

dacaur
09-17-2012, 08:07 PM
Nice. Almost makes me wish I had gotten a black stock instead of paying extra for the camo version.... what did the new stock set you back? and how do you like the timnet trigger..... I thought my modded trigger was decent, till I shot a buddies adjustable trigger.... I may need to get one or the other soon (timney or basix)....

thermaler
09-17-2012, 08:39 PM
Thanks--the stock from Savage was about $115.00 including shipping. But what they sent me was the "old style" longer style which is out of production--even though they promised to send me the newer one. So I had to reinforce this one--plus I cut the pull length down around the same as new production stock. I think the newer production stocks are slightly stiffer than the longer old ones (which I'm guessing is the reason Savage quietly came out with it without announcing anything to the public)

I really like the Timney trigger--mostly because it's fully adjustable--and just as important--fully reversible for anything you adjust. I did modify the stock trigger with the coil trim and sear engagement shave--but I was just too nervous about a possible accidental discharge in the process of figuring out what works and what doesn't at my experience level to actually use it.

Gmac5
09-18-2012, 05:24 PM
Does the timney have adjustments for a trigger stop ?
Put an accutrigger in it and dont worry about how many ounces it is ,its safe by design

thermaler
09-18-2012, 06:48 PM
Does the timney have adjustments for a trigger stop ?
Put an accutrigger in it and dont worry about how many ounces it is ,its safe by design

I don't think either the Timney or Basix does (I assume you're not talking about over-travel). From what you describe, it sounds like your getting access through deals with clients--but if you are saying you're willing to sell these good to go for 40 -60 bucks--sign me up!