Best DIY mods to a Savage action?

[mattri]

Just picked up a Stevens 200 long action. The rifle will be a hunting/target gun. Do not yet have the barrel or trigger that will be used.

Are there any mods/improvements that can be done at home to improve the accuracy and function of these actions? I've built a couple Savages before and have access to some basic machinery, lathe etc.

Lapping the lugs comes to mind- but there seems to be some debate on whether that is effective with the floating bolt head.

Not interested in sending the action to a gunsmith, looking at things I can do at home. Thanks for any suggestions, Matt.

[cgeorgemo]

I'd say put in a bolt lift kit to reduce lifting effort on bolt opening.

[nsaqam]

Stone and tune the trigger/sear interface.
This is easy but it does take some very careful work.
You do not want to change the angles nor round off the surfaces.

[308law]

I would think lapping the bolt lugs would still be helpful, also square the front of the receiver and install a machined recoil lug.

[nsaqam]

I would think lapping the bolt lugs would still be helpful, also square the front of the receiver and install a machined recoil lug.


All good suggestions to which I'd add lapping the boltface after the lugs are lapped.
Perfect perpendicularity to the bore axis is never a bad thing.

[mattri]

Great replies, thanks.

The trigger will be replaced with an aftermarket and a machined lug will be used when the barrel is set.

So far we have trueing the front of the receiver, lapping the lugs and bolt face and lift kit.

I was also considering polishing the bolt internals- thoughts?

[xhogboss]

Bed it! Mating the action to the stock is important for consistency.

[ellobo]

Bedding the action would probably be the one best thing you could do while maintaining a floating barrel and tang. If it was mine and a hunting rifle I would go for a Boyds Prairie Hunter stock, checkered. If as you say you have access to a lathe you can true the action face yourself as well as the floating bolt head. DO NOT remove anymore metal than is required. Trueing the barrel nut face is a good idea as well.

El Lobo

[243LPR]

Could somebody show pictures of the bolt lift kit and how it goes together? I've read alot about it but just can't see it in my head where the pieces go.

[mattri]

Thanks again for the replies- glad for so many to help out on this.

Sorry for not being clear earlier- this is just an action. At this point there is no barrel, no stock, no trigger (the factory trigger is there but being replaced with and aftermarket).

Bedding, the machined recoil lug etc will all come in time but for the moment the action itself is what is being focused on.

This lighter bolt lift mod is very interesting. Have done a little reading and it seems there has been a number of views on the matter.

One would be a time and true job by Sharp Shooter Supply, or other similar shop. I don't doubt for a second that their work is first rate but at this point, for this gun, that isn't a direction that is being considered.

Another would be the 38/357 mod that seems to involve using a cut-down pistol case to hold a bearing to allow the Bolt Assembly Screw to pivot, creating less friction, and therefore less bolt lift effort.

Also thee is the dolomite mod using a roller bearing with spacers to accomplish the same idea in principle, reduce friction and lift pressure.

Are there others that I've missed?

[Blue Avenger]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/savagebolt008.jpg
The older screw pictured, fits into the sleeve. it would require trimming back the amount it protrudes into the sleeve + the thickness of the brass .357 case to maintain the factory spring pressure. Newer screws no longer ar as long and would only require the thickness of the brass rim removed. Some people do not bother, but that will change the spring geometry.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/savagebolt001.jpg
ball bearing glued in as a pivot point.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/bbcockingbutton.jpg

[thomae]

Or, if you don't want to trim the BAS, and you (or a friend) have a lathe, you can fashion a spacer washer the equivalent thickness to go between the BAS and the bolt.

Mattri,
PM me your address and I'll send you a 38/ball bearing already put together if you wish.

Cheers,

[mattri]

With the 38 case mid do you need to trim the BAS?

thomae- pm sent.

[Netz]

Yes, you need to remove the thickness of the combined height of the case rim and exposed ball barring that protrudes above the top of the cocking sleeve, otherwise your adding extra pressure to the firing pin spring,cocking sleeve, and some other bad things, it kinda defeats the purpose.
My rifle is an older 110E and the BAS has the screw driver slot, it has a different design and actually goes inside the cocking sleeve,so this type of BAS has to be cut, but the newer 110 or 11 as my Nephews was, I just made a shim as described below, that way I could remove the lift kit and return the rifle to factory condition without having to modify any parts.

I think in the Tech section there is a thread that covers allot of work you can do to the Bolt, I recommend as you mentioned smoothing out the ramp in the bolt,if you take a good look there are allot of chatter marks in there, and your Cocking Piece is like driving down a washboard road.
I think there are a few spots that need attention on the Rear Baffle, and Bolt handle.

The lift kit is a piece of cake, I used a shim made from 1/2 inch PVC so I did not have to cut my Bolt Assembly Screw (BAS).
Curt

[thomae]

Good summary, Netz. Thanks.
If you have an older style BAS, I suppose you could purchase a newer one and then put the spacer/washer on that one.

[mattri]

Lots of good replies here- plenty to keep me busy for a while.

nsaqam- I didn't mean to dismiss your suggestion, and in thinking about it some more I prob will see how much improvement I can get out of the stock trigger. Worst case scenario I'll just replace it anyway. Thanks for the good idea.

[nsaqam]

Replacing the trigger is a simple and effective way to improve the function of that vital part.

That said I'd rather put that $100+ towards a better quality stock or barrel.

I find my worked over two screws to be some of the finest triggers I've ever felt on any rifle. My Kimbers have superb triggers but the Savage trigger is every bit as good.

[mattri]

I'll definitely be reading up on how to clean it up. This won't be a full on bench gun so it doesn't need a 4 oz jewel. Something nice and clean would be perfect.

[cgeorgemo]

http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage110trigger.html

[nsaqam]

Nice link Brian but stoning is the only way to reduce sear engagement on a two screw trigger.