Best DIY mods to a Savage action?

[mattri]

Is the 200 trigger still the 2 screw type? Thought I'd read that they've gone to the axis/mk series style.

[cgeorgemo]

Well you could do what I did and swap out the trigger on the Stevens to one of the older Svage take off triggers.

[nsaqam]

Is the 200 trigger still the 2 screw type? Thought I'd read that they've gone to the axis/mk series style.


I have no idea since they don't make a 200 in LH I've never had one apart.

[Blue Avenger]

Good summary, Netz. Thanks.
If you have an older style BAS, I suppose you could purchase a newer one and then put the spacer/washer on that one.
Newer one would be allen head instead of straight slot screwdriver. Easier to work with.

[243LPR]

Thanx for the pix,clears it up some.What should the finished case length be?

[Blue Avenger]

Thanx for the pix,clears it up some.What should the finished case length be?
short as you can get. No need to get picky, just remove as much of the tube as you can.

[thomae]

243LRP:
Yup, what Blue said.
Take a look at: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1660661

Exact case length of the cut down 38 brass not important, since only the rim supports it on the one side and the ball bearing on the other. I would cut it down to about the same as the thickness of the base (trial & error, but not too difficult) perhaps 1/8" or even less.

Presuming that you have a newer style (flat base) BAS, the only distance for which you need to compensate (to get your firing pin spring compressed the exact same amount as before the mod) is the rim thickness plus the amount the ball bearing protrudes above the surface of the 38 casing. The author of the snipershide post had it wrong.

There are 2 commonly accepted ways to do this:
A)Trim the BAS by that amount (face off on a lathe)
or
B) machine a washer/spacer that thick to insert between the bas and bolt.

Hope this helps.

[daisy2007]

Is it ok to trim the cocking sleeve? Or is having the BAS the only way to go?

[drybean]

cheaper to replace the bas than the cocking sleeve,
if you mess up

drybean

[Willoughby]

shim it
a standard 1/2 washer works well
their about 0.100 thickness
& diamenter on out side very close
a little cold blue makes it look, well ...blued...

[nsaqam]

It was a lot easier to chuck up the cocking sleeve in my lathe than it was to chuck up the BAS so I trimmed the sleeve.

Worked perfectly.

[gotcha]

Stockade stocks has a bolt lift kit for $7.50......Polish all internal bolt parts where sliding or turning friction takes place including inside cocking sleeve. Smooth the cocking ramp contour then polish & use a moly grease on this part....... Could be an individual rifle thing but, on my 200 LA I got noticeable improvement from polishing. Not that much improvement from kit. If you plan on using a short cartridge chamber it & extract. If you see gouging on shoulder/body/neck, polish the internal parts of the receiver that cause this. It's much easier to do with bbl removed prior to final setting of H/S. +1 for truing front of receiver & bbl nut.

[Netz]

Here's the PVC shim I made for the Mod. 11, I left it white as my Nephew wanted a snow camo and it just kinda worked.

I haven't finished my Mod 110E (intermediate action) yet but plan on doing a write up on it, most everything was done at home, I got allot of useful information from this site and found the bolt mods in the Tech section (Members only).
I second the factory 2 screw trigger, I just did some adjusting an polishing of the mating surfaces, and added the smaller Dia. spring wire that .243 Shooter was giving away. These Savages are really DIY and I tried to keep that way.
Curt

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,44747.msg307809.html#msg307809
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/311684_2285558892040_1040913023_2615820_1317278208 _n.jpg

[mattri]

Is it just me or does your camo have a certain pattern to it?

[nsaqam]

I see what you're getting at you dirty sonofagun!

[drybean]

I can see how you would not loose your grip

drybean

[big honkin jeep]

Nice link Brian but stoning is the only way to reduce sear engagement on a two screw trigger.


I have successfully reduced the sear engagement on a two screw trigger by putting a spot weld on the trigger under where the sear sits while protecting the engagement surface. Then I filed it down until the engagement surfaces were where I wanted it. A little dab of rust blue and done.
If you have the right tools you can also tap it and turn it into a 3 screw.
There is nearly always more than one way to skin a cat. ;)

[nsaqam]

Excellent ingenuity BHJ.

I certainly would never try the welding thing myself but the drilling and tapping would be a possibility.

A piece of shim stock soldered to the trigger would work too I presume.

[big honkin jeep]

I'm not sure how well solder would hold the shim stock in place. I had a small piece of stock in front of the engagement surfaces to protect them from spatter and accidental contact as well as several pieces clamped to the sides in the vise to try and sink most of the heat away as these parts have hardened surfaces and I wanted to try and not screw them up.
You may want to keep in mind the hardened surface part if you try to tap one.

[nsaqam]

I'm talking silver solder.
The same stuff which holds the bolt lug portion on a 700 bolt.

I'm not likely to do anything other than stoning though as the results are fantastic.