Improving Accuracy on Savage 12 F/TR

[Quinny]

I have a mod 12 F/TR, which is generally a pretty good shooter - I get 0.5" groups for 5 shots at 100yd on average, and often a bit better than that. I am using 168gn Sierra MatchKing projectiles at 2845fps (measured).

I am basically looking for any suggestions that anyone might have to make the accuracy and consistency any better than it is now, without going to a match-grade barrel. I have already changed the factory cheekpiece for a Karsten one, and I am using a Nightforce NXS scope and mounts.

Has anyone done any modifications to their mod 12 Target rifles? Do they benefit from doing some bedding or action truing work? Anything else anyone would recommend?

I have been toying with the idea of changing it from .308Win to 6.5x47Lapua, so if I go down the match barrel route, that is probably the direction I will go.

[SMK Shoe]

Go with the 6.5 x 47 Lapua as fast as you can. Sell the 308 barrel for what ever you can get and call Jim at NSS for a CBI barrel. Mine was at the 1/4" at 100 yards without much load development. I am expecting to get well under that.

[bbradford71]

As many have said on this forum before, trigger time will improve your accuracy.

[lal357]

if your planning on shooting it in f-t/r class you have to keep it 308win or 223 only .and as said trigger time is the best way.

[Balljoint]

Have you tried this to improve your groups http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/

[psharon97]

Have your tried switching up your bullets? My pet load for 308 is IMR 4895 at 45g with Hornady 155g A-max SST. That or change the trigger to the SSS Competition Trigger, get SSS to time and true the action. However, I don't know if these changes will allow you to compete in f-class.

[Terry Balding]

Free floating the barrel, bedding the action and adjusting the trigger are the basic tune up for any rifle. Following that load development and brass prep will make a big difference. To get below 1/2 moa your brass and loads must be consistent. Try shooting ladder test with differing seating depths, and then differing powders and loads. Look to the 6BR website for loads to try.

One final test is to have someone else shoot the gun. The shooting style we use is a big factor. Try different styles to see what the gun likes.

Terry

[Quinny]

I have tried several different 155gn bullets, but the rifle just doesn't seem to like them - I tried different powder loads and seating depths, but always the same result - in a 5 shot group, I will get 3 good shots and 2 bad shots on every group. With the 168gn Sierras, they were much better.

I will get a gunsmith to bed and true the action, and keep practicing for now until I can justify the money on putting a match barrel on.

[barrel-nut]

Try 175 grn Match Kings and IMR 4895. My 308's like them better than 168's.

[GaCop]

Comparing the two, the 6.5 Lapua is a better long range caliber than the .308. As mentioned, IF your going to compete in F Class your stuck with .308. If your just wanting something to reach out at the longer ranges, the 6.5 Lapua is the way to go. Yes, the 308 will reach out to 1k but the 6.5 Lapua will do it a lot easier and use less powder.

[henry1]

when i first built my .223 AI, i didnt have the time or stuff to bed it...the bbl wasnt even floated...but i did get half in groups at 100yds with one load. this last spring i finally bedded it, floated the bbl too. it will shoot under a half inch with more than 5 different handloads....anymore, when i am putting together a project i bed it right off the bat. no sense in not doing it, it can only help you. just my .02$.
Henry.

[davemuzz]

FWIW, don't forget when you re-attach your barreled action to the now bedded stock, use an inch\lb torque wrench and tighten the action screws to 35 or 45 in\lbs each. Tighten the front one first, and the rear one last.

This is a very important step in obtaining consistent accuracy from your Savage rifle. (Ask me how I know..... ::) :P ;D)

Dave

[Terry Balding]

I have tried several different 155gn bullets, but the rifle just doesn't seem to like them - I tried different powder loads and seating depths, but always the same result - in a 5 shot group, I will get 3 good shots and 2 bad shots on every group. With the 168gn Sierras, they were much better.

I will get a gunsmith to bed and true the action, and keep practicing for now until I can justify the money on putting a match barrel on.


Check the brass. Brass that is thicker on one side or not concentric can cause this. What is the runout on your brass and loaded ammo?

[Quinny]

I use Lapua brass, so there should not be an issue with quality. I often check the brass weights, and the extreme spread of weight is around 2gn across 100 cases.

I don't have the tools to measure bullet runout. I use Lee collet dies, and from reports I have had from other competition shooters that use the collet dies, that the collet dies are very good and runout is not really a problem with them.

I find it strange that if it was a problem with the brass, that the accuracy and consistency using 168gn pills is much better than with 155gn pills.

I have ordered some 175gn MatchKings, so I will give those a try. I will also check the tension of the action screws and torque them to the specs that are recommended in the article that Balljoint posted.

As I said in the original post, the rifle shoots pretty good as it is, just looking for a few tips and tricks to try and squeeze a little more out of it.

[Terry Balding]

2 grains spread is big. Is there a velocity difference lightest to heaviest?

[L. Rivard]

I was having a terrible time with flyers with my M 12 until I read this thread and followed the link posted by Ballpoint. That method of establishing action screw torque showed immediate and dramatic improvement. I don't know if the improvement will last as I just tried it today, but I am very encouraged.

[Quinny]

2 grains spread is big. Is there a velocity difference lightest to heaviest?




It is a 2gn spread across 100 cases that have been fired 6-8 times. I usually batch the cases by weight so that all of the shots in a group are using brass that varies by no more than .2gn.

I readjusted the trigger last night and tightened up the stock according to the torque settings advised in the article Balljoint posted. I have some 175gn SMK's to try this weekend, I will see how that goes.

As far as velocity goes, I have only shot 3 shots from my current load over a chrony, they registered at 2841, 2845 & 2849fps.

[Nandy]

Use your chrony as much as you can, it can help determine if your problem is related to your loads. Example today, I shot my 06 and I usually get .5 groups. Today the first 3 shots were about an inch!! I was going nuts, then look at the chrono numbers and those loads were all over the place. If I had not have the chrono I would have been looking all over the place trying to find what was loose in my gun. Got the "proven loads" on the rifle and back to .5 groups.... Sometimes my rcbs 750 drifts, probably what happen here. Will pulll the bullets and check the powder again... Those that you shot with the chrono look good, but I am telling you, sometimes that powder charge...

[barrel-nut]

Sometimes my rcbs 750 drifts, probably what happen here.


Mine does this too. Very frustrating. Use the tare function to re- zero often with your empty powder scoop on the scale.

[Dennis]

Use the tare function to re- zero often with your empty powder scoop on the scale

Please explain!