Model 10 Accutrigger swap to Factory Red Bade trigger.
I purchased a Red Blade Target Trigger and Sear when they became available through Gun Shack and never got around to replacing it yet because I have been involved with another Savage 110. So now my league season is over and I can now get back to this. Excited to get into this and back to my Model 10 223 Blind mag.
Question for this post is that in past topics I have seen it stated that even when new these triggers still need work when installed. Can anyone elaborate on this? What needs attention? Draw backs?
Thanks.
They were hand fit at the factory which included stoning and truing angles to achieve stated adjustment range. You might also need to add shims to eliminate side play, something the target version is very susceptible to if set near the lowest limit.
I have 2, both are 8 - 9oz, any lower and my fat finger trips the safety blade far too readily.
I have a shim kit. Bought 2 when I did my 110.
I can add to that.
Without any work the red blade parts were pretty bad, much worse than my varmint trigger. Maybe with time it would get better but I put mine on the shelf until I can make a jig for stoning the engagement surfaces.
So which contact surfaces are referring? Sear surface? Pivot pin areas?Originally Posted by charlie b
Ask because I have never attempted any trigger alterations and don't want to screw it up.
The surface between the sear and trigger. They have to be stoned at very precise angles. Typically a jig is made so the stone is at the proper angle and is perpendicular. Critical especially for very light trigger pulls.
I suspect this issue is why Savage never released the parts before.
Spot on!
That part I knew but was wondering if there was another area that also needed attention.
Phil, my experience last year when I mine arrived was a tad different. I feel mine was assembled on a Friday at 4:45PM just before Christmas break!But then sometimes as you said you get a pretty darn good trigger. If that is the case, before a person monkeys around, go try the darn thing. If its seems smooth and not sticky, then just adjust the screws for pull weight. Knowing the more it gets used the better it will get normally!
HOWEVER;
For me surface polishing of the sear was required where it hits the notch to get a smooth pull. For me I started with a ceramic 1000 stone to loosen up any factory finish. Then followed up with an oil soaked 1/2 strip of 2000 sandpaper. When both the sear and part of the notch was semi shiny and did not seem "sticky or kinda felt like it something was NOT grinding" I quite. If you are careful with such fine polishing media you should not mess up any angles. It does not need to be a 44 microinch finish to operate correctly, just make it smooth operating.
I
I prefer the old SSS trigger : )
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Don’t We AllI prefer the old SSS trigger : )
I haven't personally bought new ones from GunShack, both of mine came with the action when purchased - no complaints. Just snagged a couple trigger assemblies (no sears) from another site one of which is a target version so I'll get to see how well it performs when I purchase a new sear.Phil, my experience last year when I mine arrived was a tad different. I feel mine was assembled on a Friday at 4:45PM just before Christmas break!
Thanks all!
At present this Model 10 has had a target spring added to it and it is actually quite nice as-is which is another reason the swap hasn't happened yet. I do also have a Shim Kit available for it. I put one in my 110 and it has made a nice difference.
I really like the suggestion to just put it in and try it first. I may just do that. As all that requires is a bit of time.
Good plan.
My situation is that the varmint trigger I have is so well used that it goes 'off' right at 1lb. I did shim it and install a lighter spring.
They are good ones too.
I'm cheap and resource limited. A careful polishing of engagement surfaces in addition to Gunshack's Accu-Trigger Target Trigger Spring can easily yield 2lb and less triggers on my hunting/recreation guns.
Very true. I've done trigger work on other guns in the past. But, I've also screwed up a few along the way. It is not as simple as running a stone or sandpaper along the surfaces.
If you have not done one and don't know what the geometry is then I'd suggest not to mess with them. Or, at least have a spare one in case you mess it up.
I have only one red target trigger and it came from the factory, and the trigger is pretty incredible, but it needs to be cleaned often and is very prone to getting out of adjustment. every year or two i need to adjust and out of habit i clean the trigger every year. It seems like the same thing happens when it is dirty as when it gets out of adjustment. BUT when working properly i absolutely love it!.
So is the sear and sear spring, along with trigger return spring the only difference between the standard and target triggers?
Or is the actual trigger (the part your finger touches) also different?
The target, varmint, and standard triggers and sears are different see this FAQ topic for details.
Like anything else, if you know what you are doing and have the tools/skills then you can change the std into a target trigger. Stone the new angles, buy or make new springs and it is done. Helps to also shim the trigger.
SSS doesn't make those triggers anymore do they?
No.
I happen to have 1, I purchased years ago for a build, it would not work because of the bottom bolt release on the action, still new in the package so to speak! so I never used it!
I ended up buying the target trigger, sear, and spring from gunshack.
The pictures show the trigger not coming with the sear and that they recommend one, but mine did come with the sear. So I have a extra now.
My factory trigger would not go any lower than a few ounces over 2lb.
Too heavy for the target shooting I do. I prefer under one pound.
I installed the target trigger as-is just to see, and was disappointed in it, as it had the exact same pull weight at my factory trigger at just over 2lb.
So I went to work with my fine stones and did my work to it and it now breaks at 11 ounces.
Not my first trigger job, but my first one on a savage. All my other savages had been worked over by SSS during timing and truing. However all of those were custom builds.
This rifle I am leaving it factory configuration pretty much until I wear out the factory barrel.
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