Reply With QuoteTime to start your journey here on the forum. Start taking pictures KMW. I am not good at wood repair so I am looking forward to your approach!
A few years ago I started on a build for a Model 11 BBR, DBM using a Richards Microfit Field Trekker stock. The stock was nearly compete and so I took it out onto the deck to try and get some pictures. Had it stood up againt the rails and a gust of wind caught it and blew it over. Between the slats and 4' drop onto a concrete pad. Stock cracked though the action bolt handle cut out. Also chipped out on each side of the rear action pillar. Completely heart broken.
Well I did not trash it or burn it but ofttimes fondled it! Always wondering "what if".
Now in the middle of a cold, boring, Wisconsin winter I have finally decided to try and repair this stock and use it. May not be pretty but hopefully serviceable. If nothing more I should learn from this work. So far I have been able to epoxy the crack back together. Today I worked at opening up the barrel channel for a Varmint barrel. Was able to save a good deal of sanding dust to mix into the epoxy that I will be using as filler for a few small cracks and to build up and replace the pillar.
Will see how this goes!
Time to start your journey here on the forum. Start taking pictures KMW. I am not good at wood repair so I am looking forward to your approach!
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Just looked through my old posts to see if I have any pictures already posted but sadly no. Have not used any 3rd party photo sharing since Photobucket. I was able to post pictures here with the insert Image but must have exceeded my limit. I do still have all the old photos saved from when I started. Will take more as I proceed, then try to find a way to post them.
At this point I am at a standstill until I get another SA Bottom Metal and BBR Trigger guard. Do have more Marine-Tex epoxy ordered to try and rebuild the broken out wood between the mag-well and trigger inletting were the rear pillar sets.
Also last evening I was able to get the Dremel and grind out the epoxy bedding from the recoil lug area so this new one will seat. Today I will be grinding out the old glass bedding for the action
i remember the rifle now. Ouch! i feel your pain!
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Ouch! That's an ugly break in the wrist area.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
So hear is a question for you all. I need to order both a new trigger guard and bottom metal. I can find both the metal pieces and also the polymer ones. Of course the metal pieces are much more costly. For instance the bottom metal. Metal one is $77.00, poly one $28.00.. Which way would you go?
Took a bit of work but I got all the old bedding epoxy ground out and the barreled action is sitting in it again very nicely.
Bottom stuff depends. I torque down the actions screws fairly tight. Plastic does not stand up to that. My Axis has a plastic trigger guard and the rear action screw would not torque down without distorting the plastic. So, the forward screw hole in the guard (where the rear action screw is located) was drilled out and the guard is now held in place by the rear trigger guard screw alone. The rear action screw is torqued against the pillar directly and does not touch the trigger guard anymore. Yes, I did need to shorted the rear action screw.
I've considered a metal trigger guard, just have not felt the need to change.
There's a couple variations of the trigger guards for TBR. Some are flat along the surface that mates to the stock, others have a small step at the front action screw to accommodate DBM bottom metal.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Indeed! Fully aware of this so thankfully this one is a BBR action. So I am left with the new model guard that is squared off or the older rounded model which is either metal or plastic. Have also seen the SS model and I will pass at that one.Originally Posted by J.Baker
I did look closer today at the trigger guard in the factory 110 Switchback stock and I would be able to use that but will still need the Bottom Metal as the 110 stock is already molded for the magazine and does not use a removable Bottom Metal. Which is OK too as I quickly found that old style Axis Mags with the clip instead of the button will not latch in the molded stock.
Lastly I quit putting a pillar in the rear action screw because as this this stock by doing so it removed too much material from the wood between the mag-well and the trigger inlet therefore weakening that area. Which is why this area completely broke out in the fall. Also had an issue with a Boyd's stock de-laminating in this same area.
Agreed with the plastic deforming under high pressure which adds to my thinking of reinforcing this area under that mounting screw with the metal bottom. Also as a way to stabilize the epoxy while trying to build this area back up. Does that make sense?
On a split like that in wrist area I would be installing + epoxy a dowel pin or 2 for added strength in that area.
That would be best but I am not equipt to do that.
I have seen this done on a relic that was completly broken into. There has to be a way a drill bit can make that happen.
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Sorry folks, finally got the time and courage to try this repair. Yes I have given this a lot of thought and have determined that this will either work well, work so-so or not work at all. At this point I have really nothing to loose other than my times and a bit of epoxy. As it sat it was nothing more than fire wood.
Back some time ago I purchased some original JB-Weld to begin with. With this I was able to separate the break wide enough to work the JB in-between and then apply a spring clamp that looked like it put good pressure into the correct general area. The area between the mag well and trigger well where the pillar post was I was able to grind out the old epoxy and remove the pillar. Looked good and clean with solid wood around the pillar hole. There is a gap of about 3/16" all the way through the stock to both in-letted wells.
Now yesterday I started on trying to rebuild the area between the mag well and trigger and cut a new pillar. Am using Marine-Tex for the epoxy in this area. to do this I am using the bottom metal and stripped action with long 1/4" machine bolts to position the pillar in the proper position.
So far it seems to be working as the pillar is now in place and orientated in the correct position. Just this morning I mixed and added more epoxy and build up that area in front of the pillar towards the mag well and behind the pillar on the trigger side. It is all curing at present. Once that is completely cured, cleaned and fitted I will again bed the action to the stock. Then I can see if this paid off. If not then I write it off as another learning experience!
First step was trying to epoxy the new pillar correctly into place
This morning I mixed up the Marine-Tex and have the stock and action wrapped up tight and set aside to cure. Will see if I can get decent pictures tomorrow. So far, high hopes!
Looking forward to your report.
Tied up tonight so will reset the trigger and check fit tomorrow. Once it is back together and before I go much further I believe I will do some test firing to see if it will hold up or blow apart.
Stay tuned!
Bedding turned out nice. Only now I can't find the front action screw and the rear trigger guard screw. Set them aside so as not to loose them and lost them anyways! I have one front screw but it is too long as when screwed in and torqued the bolt will not close. So off the the hardware store for a shorter screw.
Just grind it down til if fits?
I would do that other than I need to keep it as-is as it came out of a 110 plastic stock that doesn't use the bottom metal. Just in case I ever put that stock back on.
I knew I put it a safe place. Inside the little tool box for my Fat Wrench!
Now I see I still have a fitment issue. Somewhere in the trigger guard and the Bottom Bolt Release. When the Action screw under the bolt release it torqued the safety blade will not move. Though when the screw is in place and not torqued it works fine. Hmm
RESULTS; was finally able to shoot this yesterday using some leftover loads from my other 6ARC. Basically was just looking for function and if it was going to stay together. Happy to state that after 10 rounds I see no cracks of separations. Though I haven't gotten around to taking it apart and inspecting. As yesterday I did a 10hr shift on our 100yd range. The today had a Dr. apt very early this morning. Tomorrow I work again so probably will not be until the weekend before I can look and hopefully get some pictures.
Congratulations!! I suspect that cartridge won't stress it much so you should be good.
charlie I agree completely. Also it will be confined to a bench which should be easier on it than beating it around in the woods. Also the 6ARC is pretty soft.
See how tomorrow goes at the range. With this recent heat and standing I noticed tonight my feet and legs have blown up again. Dang it!!!
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