Time to start your journey here on the forum. Start taking pictures KMW. I am not good at wood repair so I am looking forward to your approach!
A few years ago I started on a build for a Model 11 BBR, DBM using a Richards Microfit Field Trekker stock. The stock was nearly compete and so I took it out onto the deck to try and get some pictures. Had it stood up againt the rails and a gust of wind caught it and blew it over. Between the slats and 4' drop onto a concrete pad. Stock cracked though the action bolt handle cut out. Also chipped out on each side of the rear action pillar. Completely heart broken.
Well I did not trash it or burn it but ofttimes fondled it! Always wondering "what if".
Now in the middle of a cold, boring, Wisconsin winter I have finally decided to try and repair this stock and use it. May not be pretty but hopefully serviceable. If nothing more I should learn from this work. So far I have been able to epoxy the crack back together. Today I worked at opening up the barrel channel for a Varmint barrel. Was able to save a good deal of sanding dust to mix into the epoxy that I will be using as filler for a few small cracks and to build up and replace the pillar.
Will see how this goes!
Time to start your journey here on the forum. Start taking pictures KMW. I am not good at wood repair so I am looking forward to your approach!
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Just looked through my old posts to see if I have any pictures already posted but sadly no. Have not used any 3rd party photo sharing since Photobucket. I was able to post pictures here with the insert Image but must have exceeded my limit. I do still have all the old photos saved from when I started. Will take more as I proceed, then try to find a way to post them.
At this point I am at a standstill until I get another SA Bottom Metal and BBR Trigger guard. Do have more Marine-Tex epoxy ordered to try and rebuild the broken out wood between the mag-well and trigger inletting were the rear pillar sets.
Also last evening I was able to get the Dremel and grind out the epoxy bedding from the recoil lug area so this new one will seat. Today I will be grinding out the old glass bedding for the action
i remember the rifle now. Ouch! i feel your pain!
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Ouch! That's an ugly break in the wrist area.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
So hear is a question for you all. I need to order both a new trigger guard and bottom metal. I can find both the metal pieces and also the polymer ones. Of course the metal pieces are much more costly. For instance the bottom metal. Metal one is $77.00, poly one $28.00.. Which way would you go?
Took a bit of work but I got all the old bedding epoxy ground out and the barreled action is sitting in it again very nicely.
Bottom stuff depends. I torque down the actions screws fairly tight. Plastic does not stand up to that. My Axis has a plastic trigger guard and the rear action screw would not torque down without distorting the plastic. So, the forward screw hole in the guard (where the rear action screw is located) was drilled out and the guard is now held in place by the rear trigger guard screw alone. The rear action screw is torqued against the pillar directly and does not touch the trigger guard anymore. Yes, I did need to shorted the rear action screw.
I've considered a metal trigger guard, just have not felt the need to change.
There's a couple variations of the trigger guards for TBR. Some are flat along the surface that mates to the stock, others have a small step at the front action screw to accommodate DBM bottom metal.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Indeed! Fully aware of this so thankfully this one is a BBR action. So I am left with the new model guard that is squared off or the older rounded model which is either metal or plastic. Have also seen the SS model and I will pass at that one.
I did look closer today at the trigger guard in the factory 110 Switchback stock and I would be able to use that but will still need the Bottom Metal as the 110 stock is already molded for the magazine and does not use a removable Bottom Metal. Which is OK too as I quickly found that old style Axis Mags with the clip instead of the button will not latch in the molded stock.
Lastly I quit putting a pillar in the rear action screw because as this this stock by doing so it removed too much material from the wood between the mag-well and the trigger inlet therefore weakening that area. Which is why this area completely broke out in the fall. Also had an issue with a Boyd's stock de-laminating in this same area.
Agreed with the plastic deforming under high pressure which adds to my thinking of reinforcing this area under that mounting screw with the metal bottom. Also as a way to stabilize the epoxy while trying to build this area back up. Does that make sense?
On a split like that in wrist area I would be installing + epoxy a dowel pin or 2 for added strength in that area.
That would be best but I am not equipt to do that.
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