Reply With QuoteThere is nothing that can use the same chassis or trigger. The best options to use your barrel with are Bighorn arms actions. Also, American Rifle Company and Aero Precision Solus. These are all Remingto 700 foot print.
Received my new barrel from Urban Rifleman and it got me thinking.
My Axis II Precision has been a fantastic learning tool which is exactly what I was hoping it would be. Now I'm thinking it's time to look at putting a better action on the gun to go with the new barrel and not really sure where to turn.
It's got the MDT Oryx chassis, I have a Vortex Venom 5x25 scope, new barrel and my suppressor. Now I'm thinking of upgrading to a new action to take these parts to a higher level. I can get another stock for my older barrel/action and end up with two guns as I have another Vortex scope I could install on it.
What do you recommend?
There is nothing that can use the same chassis or trigger. The best options to use your barrel with are Bighorn arms actions. Also, American Rifle Company and Aero Precision Solus. These are all Remingto 700 foot print.
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Originally Posted by Robinhood
Not disagreeing, but I find it almost hard to believe that there are no aftermarket actions for the Savage footprint. I know that at one time, Savage offered a "savage precision target action" but I don't believe it's available anymore. Sure seems like a major missed opportunity for not offering aftermarket parts for what has been a great gun.
Savage still makes the Precision Target. But it is a Model 10/11/12/14/16 footprint. There are also no aftermarket actions for that footprint either.
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
PTA's are still made. I shoot three of them. But realize this, they are a single shot using a large shank barrel.
What real direction do you want to go ?? With an Axis, I'd waste no money on lip stick for it. Put Urban's
barrel on it and get your load work ups done and shoot some groups.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
I'm just going to do some critter hunting and target shooting. Gun works perfect for that, so I'll put my money into more reloading gear.
First of all, there's nothing wrong about the Axis action that cant be tweaked or up graded. I have several and shoot bench rest matches with them.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I also can't fault my Axis action for much, except having a good trigger. I've reworked the bolt to make it smoother (not as good as my well worn Model 12) and put a McCarbo trigger in it. The trigger I worked on a bit and it is down to a crisp 1.5lb. I may put an even lighter spring in it but then it will trip the safety more often :) Of course Fred probably has a 8oz trigger on his :)
My 2 Cents...I would stop chasing the hardware as Fuj mentioned. Instead work on load development and practice with purpose. Just don't shoot at the target but think when you shooting. Is your physical position the best for repeatability on paper. Concentrate on on trigger pull, until it becomes second nature.
As for load development search things on the net like ladder testing, read what the champions are doing to perfect their loads for your caliber, and copy their style. Lets face it, they spent 1,000 of hours perfecting their loads for repeatability their scores reflect their effort. Understand with loading its not about speed or the best bullet for you caliber, its about loading to get repeatable results every time you run a round through.
You mentioned hunting, understand your targets kill zone. Allot of guys want sub MOA for hunting but its not really necessary. Whats necessary is sending a bullet downrange knowing it will hit your preys target kill zone. That means it will fall in an area from 3 inches for lets say prairie dogs and up to 12 inches for an elk. The only caveat is if your a head shot guy like me, where I want a 2 inch group for al animals.
Last when you set your scope ZERO range and set your scope using ballistic tables for the maximum point blank range for your rifle. Trust me most shots are within 400 yards, thus most calibers like a ~ 200 yard zero. But you need to find that for yourself and adjust for your best load bullet speed.
Hope this rant helps a little more. You have a gun that is more than capable!
Larry
Really appreciate the comments. Will begin barrel break in tomorrow. Hope to put some real lead down range on Saturday to get it really dialed in. Anxious to see improvement. Guns fully capable, now it's all on me.
My 2 cents again...
I stopped Barrel Break in long ago. I really do not see what it does from a mechanical engineering standpoint. Perhaps on factory barrels it helps a little because high volume manufacturing does not remove all burs from the lands. Nor are the grooves cleaned. But custom barrels are smooth and very clean. The manufactures quality control demands it and imperfections hurts sales.
If you feel the need to break a barrel in kill multiple birds with a single stone to safe on components. Example combine it with fire forming your new brass. And while your at add a third and combine it with sighting in your scope.
Keep us informed please. We are all here to assist each other!
Larry
Did first shooting.. I did 15 shots first using 77 grain bullets from David tubs to finish barrel. All shots were under 1 moa. Then did the 55 grain loads I had from old barrel Load data. Got some shots off and then came the rain. New barrel has a 60 freebore, so did OAL measure and loaded new rounds with 77 smk's and will test tomorrow. The rabbit hole goes deeper!
Was the bore that rough you had to shoot bore grinders through it?
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
No. The barrel maker provided it. I'm damn sure not gonna question David Tubbs if he recommends it not Brad Walker at Urban rifleman. They know way more than I do about this. It's not that the bore is rough, but to remove any remaining flash on the grooves. Makes sense to me.
Who is the barrel manufacturer, if you will, please.
Wilson provided the blank, the Urban rifleman took it from there.
I do a break in on mine. The break in is to speed up the process of removing machining marks from the barrel. Each time you shoot, the bullet 'rubs' a bit against the burrs. If the copper deposited there remains, then subsequent shots do not 'rub' it down any further. Clean the copper and the next bullet can 'move' a bit more of the burr.
You can just let this take a 'normal' course and reduce the burrs over time every time you shoot and clean, or you can speed it up by the 'shoot one and clean'.
But....
Lapped barrels have almost no burrs in the barrel rifling but they do have radial marks left by the chambering reamer. The break in process is meant to remove those in a faster manner. My current Shilen barrel took 3 rounds to 'break in'.
PS you can also use abrasive paste, such as Iosso, to speed up the process, but, it will also 'grind' on the other parts of the grooves and lands as well. If you really want to speed it up you can lap the barrel. Takes a bit of skill and patience but it can work. Bad part is if you do it wrong it will ruin the barrel.
OTOH, barrels that are not lapped have enough machine marks that you won't get rid of all of them. As such they never really 'break in'. My two Savage barrels did not shoot that well when I first got them and they looked like the lands were made of copper after shooting. As time went on they got better. Frequent cleaning made the 'smoothing' process go faster.
There is a school of thought that you can just leave all that copper in the barrel. Over time it will collect until all the 'grooves' are filled. Subsequent shots will just slide over the filled grooves. For many folks this may give adequate accuracy and they never have to do anything but clean the powder fouling out of a barrel.
I do find that after cleaning it takes a few shots to get optimum accuracy. Funny thing is the first shot is usually right where it needs to be. The 2nd and 3rd are off a bit and then the 4th is right back in the center. Don't ask me why but I do like the result.
Where did Tubbs come in on this?
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
Tubbs developed a "Finish kit" based on his own product for Brad Walker, who recommends it for his barrels. The two evidently have both a business and personal relationship of some kind.
https://theurbanriflemanstore.com/22...tuff-included/
https://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-bullet-kits
There are so many different thoughts regarding barrels and I think I've read or sent them all when doing my research prior to my purchase.
I once saw a saying that's followed me my entire life.
"During the course of every project there comes a time to shoot the engineer and begin production."
I spent a great deal of time talking with Brad Walker. He's very customer oriented. What he told me made sense. The Internet is full of opinions, but when those at the top of the food chain speak, it's wise to listen.
In the end, it's the shooting that does the final finishing of a barrel thru endless rounds downrange and barrel care.
My journey into bolt guns has exposed me to an entirely new world. My shooting, which was quite good IMO from a tactical standpoint, It's one thing to put multiple rounds into a silhouette at 100 yards and all of them in the kill zone and doing so while moving.
It's entirely another to be a sniper. Combining precision, which I see more as more of a rifle based function, and accuracy, which is human based, then adding in all the variables like wind, two, humidity, bullet drop is harder than hell to achieve. One pays a helluva lot of dues to get to that point. It ain't cheap, and it ain't easy. It's truly a mental game achieve.
Now I have to deal with freebore and "jump". Something new added to the pot. Just whenI thought I was getting this all figured out...
Went to the range today. At 7am there were already people there and over the next couple of hours, more arrived. People dialing in their guns for the opening of deer season here in Arkansas.
Tested out a number of loads and I'm quite impressed with the new barrel. Best 5 shot group of the day was .328 MOA.
Shooting SMK 77's with a load of 8208 XBR at 22 grains.
Tomorrow I'm testing RMR 69's with CFE223 @ 24 grains. Hope to have the load dialed in with this combo.
Being an engineer I support that comment :) I was also a test engineer and trying to come up with ways to realistically test designs/systems was really kind of a lost cause. Which was why there were so many stages and levels of testing.
Yep, once the rifle is made more precise the brain becomes a big part of the problem.
There is also....."Fishing lures catch more fisherman then fish" !!
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
I don't know of any barrel manufacturer that would recommend a fire lapping kit for their barrels. It typically would void any warranty.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Maybe Shaw. But what would happen to their accuracy.
:)There is also....."Fishing lures catch more fisherman then fish" !!
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
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