Reply With QuoteNot surprised cause that seems the way it is with everything. I guess With paint cans you don’t even know it till it runs out though.
Heres my COMPLAINT of the month. Just as a you pay the same for corn flakes but get less for your buck in these modern times. Krylon Rattle Can Paint seem's to have done the same. I mean Poof, I ran through a can of black and clear on my gunstock.
I admit it, I made errors on the gunstock and there was some do overs in spots but nothing major. Just your typical rattle can in the garage spray issues like bug spots, some dust, yep a couple of runs, and some air bubbles. I also know I waste quite a bit as I spray 15-18 inches away and spray side to side not stopping on the project. I also shake the crap out of it in before use and while using it.
Can't tell you how many coats of black I sprayed but it wasn't many. I put on about a dozen coats of clear (includes repairing some errors)
Still how did I use 2 brand new cans of rattle can paint on a gun stock?
Glad Sherwin Williams owns Krylon and routinely offers it in the store for around $5.00 can.
- Krylon COLORmaxx Acrylic Crystal Clear
- Krylon Fusion All-In-One Gloss Black
Last edited by LDSILLS; 06-10-2024 at 10:09 AM. Reason: removed female dog name and replaced it with COMPLAINT
Not surprised cause that seems the way it is with everything. I guess With paint cans you don’t even know it till it runs out though.
last 4 cans of VanSyckle paint I bought clogged before I was half empty. Will try to exchange them.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
I have used rattle cans since I was 9 painting metallic on my model cars. Back then metallic flake would always clog. Somehow we were at a body shop and the man told me some tricks to stop it. Been using his advise all these years I have NEVER had anymore clogs. I may lose pressure in the can over time but never a clog.Originally Posted by Blue Avenger
Important before use ensure the can is kept in the same atmosphere as you plan to spray. Not exceeding the or decreasing the recommended temp range for cure. Shake shake and shake more. Don't stop once you here the ball rattling instead keep shaking for at least 5 minutes post the ball noise.
Now heres what I do. Turn the can upside down and spray the paint out until the mist is clear. Then shake one more time and do it again upside down. This time there should be only a mist. Next pulse spray some waste material Pulse spraying bursts' fills the "valve" and allows clean paint. If it splatters shake again and then repeat the upside down spray. In the case above it was explained to me the marble inside the can is not just moving paint its knocking against the "valve" inside the can.
If you look at the photo below you can see how paint collects at the conclave corners because that is where the tip of the valve rest. This pain is very hard to move as its viscosity is usually higher as heavier chemicals mostly pigments will rest here. No different then opening a can of house paint and seeing the yellow chemicals at the top and pigments under neath. Many many years have proven the design of the spray paint can is a good one. Its the operators that seldom take the time to see whats really in the can.
I know people do this but its important to always shake while your painting.
When your done whether its resting the can between dry time or long term storage clear the tube again by placing the can upside down and purge the paint in the "valve". If you clear the inside spray tube before storage that spray paint will be good 5-8 years later. Also dont use a pin to clean the cap...using a pin sometimes will ruin the seal. Instead I use a round toothpick with some alcohol on it.
Secret's out.
Last two cans of Krylon Camouflage did the same. I always turn upside down and spray before storing the paint. Did not make any difference clogged anyway.last 4 cans of VanSyckle paint I bought clogged before I was half empty.
Try wiping the nozzle with a rag or paper towel after spraying until material ceases.
Tried about everything Phil but no results. Have used Krylon for years and the problem started last year. The Camo Flat Black is the worst and the Green is fairly good.
I tricked out a Caldwell fire control test yesterday but cutting off the rear raised area and adding a flat plate that is perfect for a rear bag. Anyway, went to prime and paint it and 4-5 of the cans kept clogging. Kept holding them upside down to clear them. What a PITA. Finally got a good one though and was able to finish. However it was paint I bought last summer.
Haven't used Krylon in years so maybe they've changed the spray valves.
Krylon paint rattle cans are a popular choice for various painting projects due to their ease of use, wide range of colors, and relatively affordable price.
Oh, wow, who would have known, I don't know what we would have down without you
Put a little mineral spirits on the rag for an even better cleanup.
I am sorry, I may have mispoke.
https://www.everand.com/book/2282356...nt-Has-Changed
Don’t do Krylon, Rustoleum much better. Due to low-VoC regulations, solvent/thinner used in paint doesn’t have as much cutting power as it once had. Chemically, this is strength of dipole-moment in the solvent. Result is that as air-space above can increases with use, the paint will dry up on surface. Next time you use it, even with lots of shaking, dried paint chunks is still large enough to clog nozzle.
Here’s tip from ex-grafitti artist: get closer, 8-12” max and move faster. Start moving sideways towards target off edge and press button when you’re 1-2” away. Then let go of button 1-2” after target. This gets you thicker wet layer for better adhesion and less orange peel.
Too far away causes lots of the paint to dry before it hits and just bounces off as dust. Lots of it ends up on background as well (overspray). Also don’t spray in random swirls. Do 1/3rd overlapping stripes like typewriter, line-by-line. This maximises coverage on target and minimizes overspray. :)
Each can should get you at least 15 sq.ft of complete single-layer coverage. What I have noticed is this has shrunk from 20 sq.ft from couple decades ago. They’re putting more thinner in these cans than ever and less and less paint!Rattlecans are priciest way to paint as far cost-per-sq.ft coverage. Especially when you get into top-quality 2-part catalysed epoxy paints. Can cost $30-40 per can with pot-life of only 3-4hrs once you shake it to pop glass-capsule inside to release catalyst. Way, way cheaper to get air-compressor, touch-up gun and get 2-part paint from auto-supply shops. Much better paints costs lots less for same coverage.
https://www.harborfreight.com/120cc-...gun-61473.html
DuPont Imron was my favorite for custom moto and auto paint jobs. Continues to flow for 15-20 min for that dripping-wet look even when dry. Super-tough polyurethane resists chipping and cracking. I’ve even painted exhaust headers with the stuff and it holds up! This 3-quart can of Imron cost me $35 jobber price. Total of $60 with activators and reducers. Made enough to lay down 4 layers of clearcoat on car. Pricing increased 10x after DuPont’s paint line was sold off to Axalta so I don’t use it any more. Along with it being illegal in many areas due to cyanide created by activators.
Here’s recent paint project. Just before moving out of CA, I crashed in final practice session at Laguna Seca…
To replace fairings, I got some generic unpainted bodywork off eBay.
I used 2 cans of Rustoleum Imagine Purple Sunrise colour-shifting paint on that bodywork. Found good deal at local Ace Hardware. That was enough to lay down 4 layers paint on bodywork (final one wet just approaching runny). It turned out nice and glossy with no clearcoat needed.
Rustoleum, way better than Krylon! :)
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks