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Thread: Starting a new build

  1. #26
    Team Savage
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    Which Staball?

  2. #27
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    Well progress.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0791.jpg  

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocketvapor View Post
    Which Staball?
    HD

  4. #29
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    Just a caution. Some of the Berger's I have used like to be jammed to get best results. I like to use Sierra SMK or Hornady ELD when I don't want to mess with jamming the bullets. Berger has a writeup on their site about testing seat depth on some of their bullets.

    Nice looking build.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    Just a caution. Some of the Berger's I have used like to be jammed to get best results. I like to use Sierra SMK or Hornady ELD when I don't want to mess with jamming the bullets. Berger has a writeup on their site about testing seat depth on some of their bullets.

    Nice looking build.
    are you saying that the bullet like to actually touch the lands? I am going with.020 off right now.

  6. #31
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    The ones I have tried (.308 155gn and 6mm 105gn) like to be at least 10 into the lands. Yes, jammed pretty good.

  7. #32
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    the rail came in from EGW, it will make for a better triangulation with the bipod. Now for some triggers work, I am not a fan of the blade style triggers like the accutrigger, but I may just do a spring and shim kit to start.

  8. #33
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    Installed the Desh bolt lift, not hard, might need to look into a ptg bolt face and maybe a new sleeve. I have the late model firing pin, so it was easy once I watched the right video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4o7MqSUW-5U

  9. #34
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    Any updates on your load development?
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaCop View Post
    Any updates on your load development?
    I shot 20 rounds over 3 hours and the staball hd was ok, I think I need to fix the trigger and get a good rail/scope before load development.

  11. #36
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    Attachment 11200Attachment 11201Attachment 11202Attachment 11203Attachment 11204
    I got the rail drilled and installed. Now to get a bipod for the rail, and I may tinker with adding a laser to see if it will help with long distance. I think the triangulation will be better than the shorter chassis. Now to get a good scope rail and scope.

  12. #37
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  13. #38
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  14. #39
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  16. #41
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    Coming along nicely.

    Why a laser? Rangefinders I understand, but, a laser at long range is too disperse for aiming a precision rifle.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    Coming along nicely.

    Why a laser? Rangefinders I understand, but, a laser at long range is too disperse for aiming a precision rifle.
    Just to see what it looks like? Experiment…

  18. #43
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    Ok. Easier to just get a laser and point it at the range you want to shoot to see what it looks like. Some of us have a lot of experience with lasers of various types. :)

    Most lasers available for guns are meant for short range and the size of the 'dot' is many MOA. Part of that is due to the diode lasers that have 'horrible' diffraction and then the tiny objective lens. Better lasers are available, but are usually bulkier and not as shock resistant. Cannon rangefinders are a good example, but, even those have a relatively 'large' spot on target. If you want less than MOA target spot you would need a larger objective lens than is typically used on small arms.

    Then there is the power of the laser vs the reflectivity of the target. Fur on animals is not very reflective so you need more power to see the spot. If they look at you then you might see the reflection through the eyes, but, that may not be the center of the laser spot and you could miss the target completely.

    Last is safety. If you are looking at a target with a scope then there can be a danger of eye damage. Especially if the laser hits a very reflective target. Quite a few military types have been blinded by laser rangefinders when using 'standard' binoculars.

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ID:	11233 found a Caldwell bipod mount that fits the rail. Now I can adjust it for better fit.

  20. #45
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    Working on a 110E build for UBR competition. This is an old (1980's) SA 110E that was originally a 243 Win. It has since been several different calibers but now about to become a 6 PPC. The stock was made by Kevin Rayhill at Stockade Stocks about 15 years ago, benchrest style. The action is stock but has a PTG bolt head and a NSS match barrel nut and a Nightforce Competition scope standing by. Everything is ready and just waiting on the Shilen select match barrel 13 T, 22", .264 neck. Alpha 6PPC brass standing by. Looking forward to it

  21. #46
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    Sounds like a good combination.

  22. #47
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    I've had good results with Accurate Magpro in mine. Ild post a charge weight, but I'm using 147gr ELDs.

  23. #48
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    a little experiment with the extrusion from egw on the surface plate, torquing the screws affected the level, also a spec of dust changed it. I will play with it more when I use the torque screwdriver. I may also get a shorter level, 12” is awful long.

  24. #49
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    I don't think it's the length of the level that is causing the sensitivity :)

    Using the Starrett is like using a micrometer vs a wood ruler :) Haven't used one since I left the test range. Used it for setting the large optics so we could get them close enough to align the laser.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    I don't think it's the length of the level that is causing the sensitivity :) Using the Starrett is like using a micrometer vs a wood ruler :) Haven't used one since I left the test range. Used it for setting the large optics so we could get them close enough to align the laser.
    Charlie, the level is heavy enough that it was actually moving the bubble by a slight shift... so I think the smaller levels would be not quite as sensitive. I am hoping its a good scope, spent 3 times what the rifle is worth. I also need to get the magazines to feed correctly.

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