1980's Savage 110DL 30-06 shooting great - range results

[ATHappyHiker]

Picked up this lefty 1980's manufacture Savage 110DL a month or so ago... topped it with a Bushnell 3-9x40 scope (had to use Weaver extension rings facing inwards to get the scope to fit the long action spacing). Brought it out to the range today for my first serious session with it - ran a few ammo types in it: PPU 165 gr PSP, PPU 150 gr SP, Remington Core-Lokt 165 gr SP, Winchester Power Point 165gr SP, and Hornady American Whitetail 150gr PSP. All at 100 yards, light wind using a very basic front rest. The only ammo it seems to NOT like was the PPU 165gr. Everything else it grouped really well. The winner was the Hornady ammo - grouped 0.9 inch. The other ammo it did 1.4" - 1.25" groups. The trigger is still stiffer than I want but I believe that it can be adjusted (3 screw set up?) As sighted in it shoots the PPU 150gr stuff @ 2.5" above point of aim (which is what I originally used to sight it in that way). Everything else hits point of aim pretty much or a tad high. Not gonna clean the bore until see performance drop off... shooting too good to mess with success! (yes, I mounted the targets upside down by accident on the frames)

[Dave Hoback]

Nice.

Yeah, that’s the problem with 2-piece Weaver bases. Use Picatinny 1-piece base, any quality rings you want & be able to mount the scope anywhere you want/need. But looks like you managed to get it at least close to where you needed. So that’s good.

[Dave Hoback]

Oh, did you already verify it’s a 3-screw, or were you asking? It could very well be either a 2 or 3-screw trigger. You may well be able to adjust the bar spring lighter. Or, I would be glad to send you one of my lighter Bar springs I make. I always keep several made up to send to members. No charge…. No catch… NO ISH, LOL! Just ask, most know. I also do full trigger jobs, no charge for my fellow member.

Here they are, and the difference between the stock & one of mine. Top spring is stock, bottom is one I make.

[ATHappyHiker]

Nice.

Yeah, that’s the problem with 2-piece Weaver bases. Use Picatinny 1-piece base, any quality rings you want & be able to mount the scope anywhere you want/need. But looks like you managed to get it at least close to where you needed. So that’s good.

I bought a one piece pic rail mount for it as well, but it had two problems: A) I'd still need to machine off some of the front of the rail so the scope's objective bell would clear it (or use way high rings with it) B) even with medium height rings the scope would still sit noticeably higher than my current set-up. My current set up may look a bit unconventional, but it puts the scope at the perfect height (the bolt handle has only a small amount of room between it and the occular bell when worked) and seems to be rock solid; I've put @ 40 rounds through it with this set up with no movement at all in the scope.

[ATHappyHiker]

Oh, did you already verify it’s a 3-screw, or were you asking? It could very well be either a 2 or 3-screw trigger. You may well be able to adjust the bar spring lighter. Or, I would be glad to send you one of my lighter Bar springs I make. I always keep several made up to send to members. No charge…. No catch… NO ISH, LOL! Just ask, most know. I also do full trigger jobs, no charge for my fellow member.

Here they are, and the difference between the stock & one of mine. Top spring is stock, bottom is one I make.

Wow - thank you for the offer! Very generous of you. I have not verified yet that it's a 3 screw action. I am not familiar with the pre-accutrigger Savage actions. I'm ignorant even of what that "bar spring" is or where it goes....

[Dave Hoback]

Wow - thank you for the offer! Very generous of you. I have not verified yet that it's a 3 screw action. I am not familiar with the pre-accutrigger Savage actions. I'm ignorant even of what that "bar spring" is or where it goes....

Once the barreled Action is separated from the stock, it’s quite self explanatory. Here is the Action with 3-screw trigger removed from the stock. You can see the Bar ring easily. The little “leg” bend fits into the adjuster screw on the the right. That screw is turned to either increase or decrease the pre-tension of the spring.

[Blue Avenger]

Take Dave up on his offer.
There needs to be some pressure on the trigger and the stiffer springs , when turned to light can run out of contact pressure and case misfires or failure to reset on cocking. The lighter spring is one of the best improvements you can make.
In the above picture of Dave's three screw trigger, you can a screw where the bend of the spring fits into a hollow screw for adjustment. Right screw is sear engagement. Left screw is over travel after sear is released and the well left of it is a 3 screw to set the clearance for the safety. Two screw triggers no longer have the right sear screw.