Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
It’s different. The older style has a recess portion that acts as a keeper for the sleeve. The New style doesn’t use a sleeve. If you wanted to switch, get the correct pin. Although, this pin could be easily enough made. I could reproduce it in either Tool Steel or Titanium (yummy!) Just haven’t gotten around to it yet. I will say though.. there’s really no need to replace. Many of the “knowhows” here actually prefer the New style pin. Robinhood for instance. He & I have talked on this a great deal, each giving his thoughts as to why the specific is favored. While I prefer the old style, it’s for my own. But I certainly trust Robin’s opinion on the matter. He has a great deal more time on the books than I do. And although I am an accomplished hobbyist machinist, Robin has done it professionally. So, I wouldn’t be so so quick to change up just because. I was simply giving you the information if something happened & you needed a new pin. (Without sending it back to Savage and paying them.)
I like the old style pin also but the assembly is cumbersome and takes a lot of spring to get it moving while maintaining lock time. I didn't read everything that has been discussed here but I know the tip's profile is very critical. Ask a lot of the guys that have a Zermatt Arms action. Most get cratering and it is due to a radius that is too long, any longer from the tip and I am sure they would be poking holes in primers as well. Cratering and "blanking" is all about flow.