223 cratering primers

[KMW1954]

Phil, talking about the new style 1-piece pin, which became the norm in 2019 in all Savage 110’s.

KKW, just so you know, the old style adjustable pin can be used in your bolt. The parts below are needed.
Firing Pin assembly
https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...10-11-12-14-16

Cocking Piece Pin
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1354170B

Cocking Piece Sleeve
https://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts?product_id=2897

Got it and thanks. Now my question isn't the cocking pin the same for both or is there a difference? I think I will be trying this first.

[Dave Hoback]

It’s different. The older style has a recess portion that acts as a keeper for the sleeve. The New style doesn’t use a sleeve. If you wanted to switch, get the correct pin. Although, this pin could be easily enough made. I could reproduce it in either Tool Steel or Titanium (yummy!) Just haven’t gotten around to it yet.

I will say though.. there’s really no need to replace. Many of the “knowhows” here actually prefer the New style pin. Robinhood for instance. He & I have talked on this a great deal, each giving his thoughts as to why the specific is favored. While I prefer the old style, it’s for my own. But I certainly trust Robin’s opinion on the matter. He has a great deal more time on the books than I do. And although I am an accomplished hobbyist machinist, Robin has done it professionally. So, I wouldn’t be so so quick to change up just because. I was simply giving you the information if something happened & you needed a new pin. (Without sending it back to Savage and paying them.)

[KMW1954]

Dave I can appreciate that greatly.

Right now I am just looking for a inexpensive quick fix to be able to shoot this in the winter league. Then eventually turning this into a 6BR which I understand is the same bolt head as the 243 that this once was. I did shoot this as a 243 and had no problem with the primers. So with that in mind I would like to preserve the original pin for that goal.

Kevin

[Robinhood]

It’s different. The older style has a recess portion that acts as a keeper for the sleeve. The New style doesn’t use a sleeve. If you wanted to switch, get the correct pin. Although, this pin could be easily enough made. I could reproduce it in either Tool Steel or Titanium (yummy!) Just haven’t gotten around to it yet. I will say though.. there’s really no need to replace. Many of the “knowhows” here actually prefer the New style pin. Robinhood for instance. He & I have talked on this a great deal, each giving his thoughts as to why the specific is favored. While I prefer the old style, it’s for my own. But I certainly trust Robin’s opinion on the matter. He has a great deal more time on the books than I do. And although I am an accomplished hobbyist machinist, Robin has done it professionally. So, I wouldn’t be so so quick to change up just because. I was simply giving you the information if something happened & you needed a new pin. (Without sending it back to Savage and paying them.)

I like the old style pin also but the assembly is cumbersome and takes a lot of spring to get it moving while maintaining lock time. I didn't read everything that has been discussed here but I know the tip's profile is very critical. Ask a lot of the guys that have a Zermatt Arms action. Most get cratering and it is due to a radius that is too long, any longer from the tip and I am sure they would be poking holes in primers as well. Cratering and "blanking" is all about flow.

[KMW1954]

You guys are fantastic. I now have lots of options, just a matter of which one works best at this time.

Situation is I will be shooting a league come the first week of Jan and the gun nor the ammunition is ready because of this. So I need to make a decision. Have only about 400 Remington and 400 cci450 primers on hand and need a minimum of 200 for the league targets. Been watching and haven't seen either anywhere. have plenty CCI400.

So options I see;
Leave as-is using up the primers I have
Order new bolt head and firing pin parts
Send out the parts I have to be machined
Swap out barrels. Take this barrel and install it onto the Model 10 I shot last year which will fire the CCI400 primers. Then worry about a fix come spring.

[243winxb]

Someone else reponded it was the CCI400 primers being too soft. So I tried some Remington 7 1/2 and it went away.

My exact findings, firing a Savage Axis in 223, as rifle came from the factory. The 7 1/2 fixed it.

Still shooting the same lot of CCI400s. They are not piercing, blanking or venting any gas. Just look bad.

[KMW1954]

Don't know that is is the best solution but for now I just found 1k CCI450 so I will shoot the season league and then tackle this again. League is 10 weeks and 25 rounds per week. 20 on target and 5 foulers/sighters.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Funny how most everybody wants you to throw $$$$ at it, especially if it isn't there's.
First thing I would do is check the headspace of the brass. (NOT THE CHAMBER HEADSPAVCE)
Said it bunch of times but it has to involve $$$ to fix the problem??
Brass too short for the chamber. Shoulders pushed back too far, firing pin pushed case forward in the chamber, (we're only talking a few .000) round fires, primer tries to back out of the pocket, case blows back against the bolt head, primer gets "blanked/punched/cratered"
Easy fix it to increase the OAL of the case by loading your bullets to a jam, fire the round and the shoulder gets blown forward.
And with that, it hasn't cost you a dime. (problem solved)
And NO, I don't know everything but I've been there, had that same problem, corrected it without spending a dime! It IS a learning process.