similar idea. lets say alum bed block in forearm is at least 1.5" wide, and stops 1.5" from plastics end. we already know its .250 thick. cut original section of oem shaft that was intended to go into forearm off, so its only 1.5'' long. take a new steel 1"x1 x1" square steel block, and drill/ream a hole through center for press/near press fit (10mm) , tap set screw(s) in sidewall for the shaft. weld that block to piece of steel flatbar (4.5 x1.5x.250") end. hog/rout out plastic from forearm back 4.5+" x 1.5"+ width. now lay plate down on underside side of alum bedding block , drill/tap/screw into bedding block. the 5/16 wall of bored block, puts the center of oem shaft on center line of the orig .250 alum bedding block, and steel block is receesed into plastic foremarm, so it can be epoxy over. only shaft sticks out, and alum bedding block never got damaged , the new flatbar is overlapping 3" of length of alum bedding. everything is rigid, and low cost/$

Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
another idea. use 1/2 aluminum square stock the length of the rod you want to be held in the stock to make bushing. Drill and tap shallow holes #10 oe # 8 screw in the four corners on one side of the

Test drill from top and bottom to locate the aluminum bedding block. Look for aluminum shavings to determine depth. Mill on the side that gives you room for half inch aluminum square stock and still be able to fill and sand to the original contour ....if possible. mill milling a half inch spot/key 1/8th inch the bedding block. Drill 4 screws holes on each end/corner of the square bushing to match tapped holes.

Mount and fill. Epoxy mount in the bushing. this will make your project bullet proof and could be done on any mill with some good cribbing and a good vice.